gdechatham
New member
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2008
- Messages
- 15
Hello all,
I finally had the time to replace the ISO mounts on my 1450 Quietline Cub Cadet. What a job! It took 4 hours 30 minutes just to replace the ISO mounts. (Even though I work fairly fast with no breaks) So, I thought, why not share the whole process with guys here.
First, I had to research ISO mounts. I had 3 possible choices:
So, what to do? After much research, I found that most owners that has used the MOOG mounts has said that the MOOG mounts will have to be replaced eventually, as they wear out fairly quickly. Other owners that used the original Cub Cadet ISO mounts has said that they work great, but they take time to become 100% effective, as they are stiff at first. BUT, they are expensive at $16.00 PER CORNER plus shipping, totaling approximately $80. Lastly, Brian Miller makes steel milled ISO Mounts. Some people have said that there's a vibration issue. Some people has said that they worked great with no change in vibration. But one thing remains the same: the steel mounts NEVER has to be replaced, and the steel rails remain solid in place. I finally decided to go with Brian Miller's ISO mounts- the best decision I could have made.
Here is a picture of ISO mounts that Brian Miller made:
I got the mounts in the mail for a VERY REASONABLE PRICE. ($30 shipped to my door for 4 mounts) I STRONGLY recommend his mounts and his other products that he has to offer. He is very honest and has a fantastic selection of products for Cub Cadet tractors. Thank you, Brian for the mounts. Very much appreciated!
This is his page for those that are interested:
Brian Miller's Links & Home Page
As I mentioned above, some people experienced some vibration with steel mounts. With that thought in mind, I decided to install a thin rubber washer under the steel mounts. This is the kit that I put together along with the ISO mounts that Brian made:
(4) grade 8 bolts, (4) nuts with rubber lock, (8) hardened washers, (4) rubber washers, (4) Brian Miller's ISO mounts.
Before I started, I realized that I had to lift the 120 lb engine out of the tractor in order to replace the mounts. So, I had to reinforce the beam above by adding another piece of wood between the cross beam and one of the roof beams.
I had to disconnect all the wires, gas line, transmission connection, pto belt (for mower), remove the gas tank & firewall, jack up the tractor & remove the front axle to get to the front engine bolts, disconnect the engine from underneath, then finally, I used winch straps around the beam going down to the engine. I didn't have anything else to use. So, I had to apply some redneck ingenuity to get the engine out. I used 2 winch straps- one to jack the engine up, the other for safety.
Full view:
I took out the rails and I was amazed to see one rail that was in great condition, and the other one was gouged. The one that was gouged- the gouge was as deep as a quarter! It must have been like that for a while. The engine was tightly bolted to the rails by brand new bolts, so the previous owner must have redid the mounts as recent as last year. (The mounts got destroyed again anyway, and they were that way when I got the tractor last month)
See the gouge and damaged mounts. The mounts must be a year old, 2 years maximum! (Left side)
This is the right hand side, the rail was undamaged, but the mounts were already mostly gone.
I put the steel mounts in, alongside with the rubber washers- fit like a charm! I solved the problem with the winch straps not having any way to lower the engine slowly by jacking up the tractor itself to the position where the engine was jacked up by the straps. Worked very well. Slid right in with no issues. (I had replaced the rails and mounts with the engine 5" above the tractor frame the whole time)
I would have taken pictures of the axle and other proccess, but at this point, after going through all the grief of getting the engine out, I wasn't in the mood to take pictures- I wanted to get the job done. I put the engine back in, hooked everything up. Tractor started and drove great!
The 1450 Quietline tractor as it is today:
Comparison of before and after:
The tractor shook a little bit before, due to the mounts being gone. The vibrations were unbearable, because my feet were numb after riding the tractor for 5 minutes. As I went over bumps, I could feel transmission surging, because the engine would move forward and backwards. (Not good!)
Now that the mounts are in, the engine stays right where it is. (It isn't going anywhere with Brian Miller's mounts!) The vibration is much less than it was before. There are SOME vibrations, but it doesn't leave me with that foot numbing. It was definitely worth it, and most of all, I don't have to go through this again.
Cheers,
George
I finally had the time to replace the ISO mounts on my 1450 Quietline Cub Cadet. What a job! It took 4 hours 30 minutes just to replace the ISO mounts. (Even though I work fairly fast with no breaks) So, I thought, why not share the whole process with guys here.
First, I had to research ISO mounts. I had 3 possible choices:
1) Buy a MOOG car suspension mount kit (Cheap rubber mounts)
2) Buy the original Cub Cadet ISO mounts (Expensive, but correct ones)
3) Buy steel milled ISO mounts made by Brian Miller (Very reasonably priced, but steel- not rubber)
So, what to do? After much research, I found that most owners that has used the MOOG mounts has said that the MOOG mounts will have to be replaced eventually, as they wear out fairly quickly. Other owners that used the original Cub Cadet ISO mounts has said that they work great, but they take time to become 100% effective, as they are stiff at first. BUT, they are expensive at $16.00 PER CORNER plus shipping, totaling approximately $80. Lastly, Brian Miller makes steel milled ISO Mounts. Some people have said that there's a vibration issue. Some people has said that they worked great with no change in vibration. But one thing remains the same: the steel mounts NEVER has to be replaced, and the steel rails remain solid in place. I finally decided to go with Brian Miller's ISO mounts- the best decision I could have made.
Here is a picture of ISO mounts that Brian Miller made:
I got the mounts in the mail for a VERY REASONABLE PRICE. ($30 shipped to my door for 4 mounts) I STRONGLY recommend his mounts and his other products that he has to offer. He is very honest and has a fantastic selection of products for Cub Cadet tractors. Thank you, Brian for the mounts. Very much appreciated!
This is his page for those that are interested:
Brian Miller's Links & Home Page
As I mentioned above, some people experienced some vibration with steel mounts. With that thought in mind, I decided to install a thin rubber washer under the steel mounts. This is the kit that I put together along with the ISO mounts that Brian made:
(4) grade 8 bolts, (4) nuts with rubber lock, (8) hardened washers, (4) rubber washers, (4) Brian Miller's ISO mounts.
Before I started, I realized that I had to lift the 120 lb engine out of the tractor in order to replace the mounts. So, I had to reinforce the beam above by adding another piece of wood between the cross beam and one of the roof beams.
I had to disconnect all the wires, gas line, transmission connection, pto belt (for mower), remove the gas tank & firewall, jack up the tractor & remove the front axle to get to the front engine bolts, disconnect the engine from underneath, then finally, I used winch straps around the beam going down to the engine. I didn't have anything else to use. So, I had to apply some redneck ingenuity to get the engine out. I used 2 winch straps- one to jack the engine up, the other for safety.
Full view:
I took out the rails and I was amazed to see one rail that was in great condition, and the other one was gouged. The one that was gouged- the gouge was as deep as a quarter! It must have been like that for a while. The engine was tightly bolted to the rails by brand new bolts, so the previous owner must have redid the mounts as recent as last year. (The mounts got destroyed again anyway, and they were that way when I got the tractor last month)
See the gouge and damaged mounts. The mounts must be a year old, 2 years maximum! (Left side)
This is the right hand side, the rail was undamaged, but the mounts were already mostly gone.
I put the steel mounts in, alongside with the rubber washers- fit like a charm! I solved the problem with the winch straps not having any way to lower the engine slowly by jacking up the tractor itself to the position where the engine was jacked up by the straps. Worked very well. Slid right in with no issues. (I had replaced the rails and mounts with the engine 5" above the tractor frame the whole time)
I would have taken pictures of the axle and other proccess, but at this point, after going through all the grief of getting the engine out, I wasn't in the mood to take pictures- I wanted to get the job done. I put the engine back in, hooked everything up. Tractor started and drove great!
The 1450 Quietline tractor as it is today:
Comparison of before and after:
The tractor shook a little bit before, due to the mounts being gone. The vibrations were unbearable, because my feet were numb after riding the tractor for 5 minutes. As I went over bumps, I could feel transmission surging, because the engine would move forward and backwards. (Not good!)
Now that the mounts are in, the engine stays right where it is. (It isn't going anywhere with Brian Miller's mounts!) The vibration is much less than it was before. There are SOME vibrations, but it doesn't leave me with that foot numbing. It was definitely worth it, and most of all, I don't have to go through this again.
Cheers,
George
