Backhoe JD 110 Tractor Loader Backhoe

[jenkinsph]

You can get the service manuals from your Deere dealer.

About the flashing light, most likely the seat switch is the culprit. If you lean forwards to see the loader bucket it will disengage the seat switch, this triggers the open book indicator light and stops the motion of the machine.

What I have done to lessen the problem is move the seat further forward.

 

[AKfish]

What I have done to lessen the problem is move the seat further forward.

And dial the seat firmness down.... Knurled knob at the base of the seat near the floor.

AKfish

 

[texasjetman]

You can get the service manuals from your Deere dealer.

About the flashing light, most likely the seat switch is the culprit. If you lean forwards to see the loader bucket it will disengage the seat switch, this triggers the open book indicator light and stops the motion of the machine.

What I have done to lessen the problem is move the seat further forward.

THANK YOU for your time and advice ... I understand that now and that is probably exactly what had happened.
Brian

 

[texasjetman]

And dial the seat firmness down.... Knurled knob at the base of the seat near the floor.

AKfish

Thank you AKFish... I will adjust that knob and see what happens.
Brian

 

[beemmeup32]

I know this is an old post but just wanted to give people another option. I had my rear remote hydraulics not working. I could hear the relay in console clicking and light lit up. First I didn't have 12VDC on the coil for the diverting valve. I don't believe the previous owner had ever used this option. I checked all electrical connections and found 1 connection was a bit dirty. That gave me the 12VDC on the coil it needed. I checked the resistance of the coil and was 6.3 ohms which was acceptable according to JD. I pulled the diverting valve out to see if could see anything wrong. You need a short 1" wrench or a really deep socket to get it. I used adjustable wrench. I used my battery charger to energize coil and did not see or hear the valve operating. This part retails for $875 and only available through JD. At this point I figured I would be buying a new one but wanted to try 1 thing first. I used a plastic hammer and wacked the end of it a few times. Then I put charger on it again and moved a bit. So wacked it a few more times and eventually freed up. I used compressed air to verify that the valve did divert the flow correctly before putting it in and worked. Put back in tractor and like magic it worked!! Saved myself bunch of $$.

 

[mguitas]

:welcome:Your so right about old thread, but maybe someone can help.

 

[DocDryden]

I know this is an old post but just wanted to give people another option. I had my rear remote hydraulics not working. I could hear the relay in console clicking and light lit up. First I didn't have 12VDC on the coil for the diverting valve. I don't believe the previous owner had ever used this option. I checked all electrical connections and found 1 connection was a bit dirty. That gave me the 12VDC on the coil it needed. I checked the resistance of the coil and was 6.3 ohms which was acceptable according to JD. I pulled the diverting valve out to see if could see anything wrong. You need a short 1" wrench or a really deep socket to get it. I used adjustable wrench. I used my battery charger to energize coil and did not see or hear the valve operating. This part retails for $875 and only available through JD. At this point I figured I would be buying a new one but wanted to try 1 thing first. I used a plastic hammer and wacked the end of it a few times. Then I put charger on it again and moved a bit. So wacked it a few more times and eventually freed up. I used compressed air to verify that the valve did divert the flow correctly before putting it in and worked. Put back in tractor and like magic it worked!! Saved myself bunch of $$.

Thanks for the update. I will add this post to my bookmarks just in case I need it.