JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions

   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #1  

dieselcrawler

Elite Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
2,920
Location
Lucasville Ohio
Tractor
2013 JD 3005 2001 Kubota BX1800
I have a JD 3005 tractor with 300 loader. The loader control valve is factory installed, plumbed in with banjo fittings on all 6 lines attached to it. I need to remove the valve assembly to rebuild it, but was wondering if the crush washers that seal the banjo bolt fittings could be reused or must be replaced? I suspect I can remove it with minimal loss of hydraulic fluid, based on the height its mounted being higher than fluid level.

Any body familiar with this model tractor and valve? I'm all ears, any tips, tricks, or experience stories are welcome.
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #2  
If they are rubberized washers, you can probably get away with it. If all copper, you might get lucky, but out of 12 washers, chances are 1 or 2 will leak
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #3  
What are you trying to rebuild? What symptoms leads you to believe it needs rebuilt?

About the only thing servicable on a standard loader valve is some little o-rings that seal the spools to the casting where the valve itself protrudes out of the casting. One side is where the levers hook, the other side is where the return springs and/or detent mechanism is.

If there are other issues with your valve, such as internal leakage or cylinder drift, there is nothing you can do inside the valve. That would warrant a total valve replacement
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #4  
X2 what LD1 stated.
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #5  

Videos on how to anneal a copper washer for reuse.
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions
  • Thread Starter
#6  
What are you trying to rebuild? What symptoms leads you to believe it needs rebuilt?

About the only thing servicable on a standard loader valve is some little o-rings that seal the spools to the casting where the valve itself protrudes out of the casting. One side is where the levers hook, the other side is where the return springs and/or detent mechanism is.

If there are other issues with your valve, such as internal leakage or cylinder drift, there is nothing you can do inside the valve. That would warrant a total valve replacement

The symptoms I'm seeing are seen on both boom lift and bucket curl. When lever is moved slightly, to 'feather' lift a load, the boom or curl goes thru a 'float' (boom drops) until moved to a more open position. I'm hoping the $100 I have in an oring kit and crush washers will resolve it, it's worth the effort to try.

Makes for jerky operation when you have to go to full valve flow with a load on the forks, when it drops as you try to lift...

While your comments are discouraging, I appreciate your honesty. I'll be prepared to spend the $1400 or so for a valve assembly if it doesn't work.
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #7  
Yea, Im guessing the o-rings and crush washers just seal all the external passages and is gonna do nothing to how the valve operates internally. And if you have never had a valve apart, you will see that.

Most quality loader valves will have anti-drop load checks that prevent exactly what you are seeing when trying to feather the valve.

Simple valves like logsplitter or hydraulic presses dont have load checks, because there is no backpressure.

Meaning that there is a fair bit of pressure just required to hold an empty loader suspended. Most loaders this would be around 500-600psi when empty. If you were to tee a gauge on the base of the loader cylinder....even emptym the weight of the loader imparts that pressure on the oil. Even more so when loaded.

So what happens is your system pressure is at 0....being its an open center system and simply pumping oil thru the valves and back to tank....and the only pressure is the resistance of the passages and fittings. (so not exactly 0, but for all intents and purposes.....no pressure on the system.)

Now when you try and move the valve very slowly.....the pressurized oil has TWO paths to take....out to the loader cylinders, or back to tank. Because when you only "slightly" move the joystick in attempt to feather a load, you are starting to close off the "open center" passage back to tank, but not completely.

So the 500-600psi in the loader cylinders just because of the weight, overpowers the pump trying to fill and raise the cylinder....and backfeeds into the pressure side of the spool, which is still partially open to tank.

I hope that explanation makes sense to you. But this is where load checks or anti-drop valves come into play. Sometimes they are servicable and parts are available, sometimes not. Or some cheap valves simply dont have them. If yours has them, there could be a little piece of debris caught in one (like a shard of teflon tape) and a thorough cleaning may fix the issue.

But gotta ask, is this a new issue? OR always been like this? Because if its always been that way, you may not have load checks at all. And sadly, the only way to keep a load from dropping when trying to raise is to shift the lever FAR enough to close off the open-center passage from the valve inlet. Which may be faster than you desire when trying to feather a heavy load.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the o-ring kit aint gonna fix it. BUT, while its apart, disassemble everything you possibly can and clean real good, and if contamination of some kind was causing the issue, it may just fix your problem
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #8  
Ditto X2 what LD1 stated!
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Yea, Im guessing the o-rings and crush washers just seal all the external passages and is gonna do nothing to how the valve operates internally. And if you have never had a valve apart, you will see that.

Most quality loader valves will have anti-drop load checks that prevent exactly what you are seeing when trying to feather the valve.

Simple valves like logsplitter or hydraulic presses dont have load checks, because there is no backpressure.

Meaning that there is a fair bit of pressure just required to hold an empty loader suspended. Most loaders this would be around 500-600psi when empty. If you were to tee a gauge on the base of the loader cylinder....even emptym the weight of the loader imparts that pressure on the oil. Even more so when loaded.

So what happens is your system pressure is at 0....being its an open center system and simply pumping oil thru the valves and back to tank....and the only pressure is the resistance of the passages and fittings. (so not exactly 0, but for all intents and purposes.....no pressure on the system.)

Now when you try and move the valve very slowly.....the pressurized oil has TWO paths to take....out to the loader cylinders, or back to tank. Because when you only "slightly" move the joystick in attempt to feather a load, you are starting to close off the "open center" passage back to tank, but not completely.

So the 500-600psi in the loader cylinders just because of the weight, overpowers the pump trying to fill and raise the cylinder....and backfeeds into the pressure side of the spool, which is still partially open to tank.

I hope that explanation makes sense to you. But this is where load checks or anti-drop valves come into play. Sometimes they are servicable and parts are available, sometimes not. Or some cheap valves simply dont have them. If yours has them, there could be a little piece of debris caught in one (like a shard of teflon tape) and a thorough cleaning may fix the issue.

But gotta ask, is this a new issue? OR always been like this? Because if its always been that way, you may not have load checks at all. And sadly, the only way to keep a load from dropping when trying to raise is to shift the lever FAR enough to close off the open-center passage from the valve inlet. Which may be faster than you desire when trying to feather a heavy load.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the o-ring kit aint gonna fix it. BUT, while its apart, disassemble everything you possibly can and clean real good, and if contamination of some kind was causing the issue, it may just fix your problem
Thank you for the detailed explanation, very helpful.

The symptom is 'new' within the past year, developing slight and getting worse.

I'm familiar with the load-check type valve, I've heard them called pilot valves too.

Having the same symptoms on both boom and curl functions makes the debris in the load-check valve unlikely, doubt both would be affected if debris were the cause.

The symptoms are worse at times, almost non-existent at others, mostly when cold. (Hydraulic fluid warms up, issue is worse)

I'll tear it apart and see what I find. Gotta wait til I can have the tractor down for a week or so, I depend on it too much to disable it now.
 
   / JD 3005 loader spool valve rebuild questions #10  
Your 3005 should have load check reliefs on the side of the valve.

My late model 790, aka the 3005, service manual shows them to be on the valve one for each port.

Also looks like they might be serviceable right on the tractor.
 

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