JD 3020 electrical question- gen. vs alt.

[Kaliburz]

Was pondering the idea of replacing the 24V gen w/ a 24V alt. The one I ran across is a GM style 30SI. I don't know much about the 30SI, other then it's GM and internally regulated. (Actually, would a 30SI be too big physically to fit in the location of the gen???)

Would retrofitting be as simple as hooking the output to the starter stud? Is there a way to get the "idiot" light to work? (I haven't looked at the wiring schematic of the 3020 of late.....) My last wiring (nightmare) was working on the Ford 4000 powered grape harvester w/ the GM alt. (and that was the plug style alt w/ the provision for the idiot light.....)- most of you recall that little project of mine...

(I know, I know.... if it ain't broke, don't fix...but I figure I'd ask.)

 

[Soundguy]

In most cases, when you swap an alt in place of a genny, you can tie the output of the alternator to the outgoing wire from the old generator's regulator 'bat' terminal.

Most common gen regulator's should have the following terminals: ground, field, armature/gen, bat, and possibly an ignition terminal.

The bat terminal is the one that carries charge upstream to the battery.. thru whatever metering scheme is in place.. idiot lamp.. gauge.. etc..

One point. And idiot lamp scheme setup for a genny, works differently than the gm 3 wire ( 10/12si ) alternator #1 terminal idiot lamp scheme.

It idiot lamp setup for a gen, just indicates armature/bat charge is occuring if the lamp goes out.

The idiot lamp scheme for a gm 10/12si is actually a field exciter for the #1 terminal..... and generally.. if the lamp goes out.. the alt is charging..

In most cases, you can dropt he alt in just like I said.. connecting charge output to old generator regulator bat tab wire.. and of course.. reset ground polarity of the tractor to match the needs of the alternator..

( I much prefer generator systems.. they are more robust... ) As long as you don't need high electrical output...

Soundguy

 

[Jim_Fisher]

In most cases, when you swap an alt in place of a genny, you can tie the output of the alternator to the outgoing wire from the old generator's regulator 'bat' terminal.

Most common gen regulator's should have the following terminals: ground, field, armature/gen, bat, and possibly an ignition terminal.

The bat terminal is the one that carries charge upstream to the battery.. thru whatever metering scheme is in place.. idiot lamp.. gauge.. etc..

One point. And idiot lamp scheme setup for a genny, works differently than the gm 3 wire ( 10/12si ) alternator #1 terminal idiot lamp scheme.

It idiot lamp setup for a gen, just indicates armature/bat charge is occuring if the lamp goes out.

The idiot lamp scheme for a gm 10/12si is actually a field exciter for the #1 terminal..... and generally.. if the lamp goes out.. the alt is charging..

In most cases, you can dropt he alt in just like I said.. connecting charge output to old generator regulator bat tab wire.. and of course.. reset ground polarity of the tractor to match the needs of the alternator..

( I much prefer generator systems.. they are more robust... ) As long as you don't need high electrical output...

Soundguy

Resetting the polarity might be a challenge. Deere new generation 24v systems use two 12v batteries. One is positive ground and the other is negative ground, making the tractor frame the neutral. Later 3020's used a 12 volt system with alternator for diesel, gasoline and lp fueled tractors.

A lot of folks convert the new generation 24v diesels to 12v, primarily to avoid the load balancing issues that come with the 24v systems. The light switches are set up with two inputs (A and B) and divide the load between the two circuits as equally as possible, so that the batteries tend to charge equally. Add an accessory draw - planter monitor or cab heater blower - and the battery running the accessory will tend to be undercharged.

Before I bought my 3010 diesel, I talked to a neighbor who has owned one for many years. He suggested that I not convert to 12v, since the 24v systems generally make starting in cold weather much more reliable.

Like you, I prefer a generator, since I can usually repair one with a minimum of parts and effort.

 

[CMunger]

Fondy Auto Electric, Remanufactured Starters Alternators Generators and Astro Lite Batteries makes a 24 to 12 volt conversion kit. It's comes with everything to convert the tractor to 12 volt, and could have some wiring with it.

Chuck

 

[Kaliburz]

I have shop manual for the beast.... I'll have to go see if the factory wiring has been modified. (We let a friend borrow the tractor some years ago and he plowed during the night- said he and another friend 'fixed' the lights.) It tends to draw power from only one battery and both hi/low lights are on no matter what position the switch is on. Maybe I'll price a harness......