JD 3038E vs 3033R

[ScapulaFarm]

About to jump into the compact tractor world. I have 30 acres, planning on using a tractor for bush hogging, and land clearing, tree work. I have a great local JD dealership within 5 miles that has served me well for other purchases in the past. I have found a lightly used, under 100 hours, 2017 3038E and 3033R. I understand some of the basic differences in weight, transmission, and performance between the two. Is the 3033R worth the extra $5000, with less horsepower? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

There is a significant difference in weight between these two tractors, according to tractor data. For the work you are listing I have found the more weight you have the easier it is to do the work. As has been said on this forum, horsepower allows you to do the work faster. Only you can determine if it's worth $5000.00. There must be a reason the dealer values the lower horsepower more than the "E" model.

 

[s219]

The R models are much better machines all the way around.

 

[Kubota 2350]

The R models are much better machines all the way around.

I agree with this.
As far as I know the "E" stands for economy

 

[mguitas]

I agree with this.
As far as I know the "E" stands for economy

Then what does the R stand for.

 

[searcyfarms]

there is nothing definitive as what the R or E or D or M stand for to my knowledge - its a price point/feature just like cars a camry L, LE, SLE etc....or ford pickup if you will, xl, xlt, eddie bauer, king ranch, platinum,

E could be stated economy/entry
M could be stated mid entry
R could be stated robust

none of which are exactly what Deere was meaning (as far as I know ) its just their way of identifying/separating out the different features/options

 

[super55]

For your type of work I would say the 3038e would be the better choice. It has about 6 hp more at the PTO. Plus with logging and land clearing the loader is pretty much going to stay on the tractor anyways most likely.

The 3033r does have some nice features like suspension seat, tilt steering, mid-pto option and removable loader but the 3038e is one of JD's most popular tractors and has an overall very high customer satisfaction.

 

[jeff9366]

Web search JD 3038E vs 3033R:

john deere 338e vs 333r - Google Search



The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor chassis weight is more important for most tractor operations than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Heavier tractors are built on larger frames with larger wheels/tires. A heavier tractor with large diameter tires has more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Large wheels and tires increase ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs with less bucking and disturbance operating over rough pasture and woodland.

 

[RyeThomas]

I owned a 3032e for awhile, I quickly sold it. It is not a bad machine but the loader is pretty anemic, lots of slop at the bucket, the 2 speed hydro is pretty noisy (that is an entirely different discussion but FWIW it bothered me), that said it is an economical tractor that will get the job done.

I would rather have weight and less hp any day, again that is just totally my opinion and not true for all. 3033r for the win...

 

[GuidoSarducci]

I had a 3038E for over 4 years on 20 acres and it did some things very well.

It never once failed to start even in -20 Kansas winters with me forgetting to put additive in the diesel.

It was a mowing son of a gun. I ran a heavy duty 5’ BMB Rotary cutter and it cut through real heavy stuff.

The loader isn’t very stout but it’s matched perfectly to the tractor weight. A full bucket of dirt and the rear end is coming off the ground unless you load the tires or have something enormous on the 3 point. I moved a bunch of cinder blocks about 500’ one day and every load had a pucker factor of 9.

As posted previously it’s a very light tractor. When our organization started needing tillage work it wasn’t the right tool for the job and to be fair isn’t marketed as such. When running a small pull behind disc it would just spin all 4 tires and usually get stuck.

Here’s the thing though, because the 3038E IS so light it’s exceptionally suited to work that requires very little ground compaction such as working in and around a finished lawn or seedbed. You can drive this tractor on your lawn and run a finish mower behind it no problem. It’s also extremely easy to trailer with an SUV or half ton pickup.

The number one thing I absolutely hated was that the rockshaft housing where the center link attaches was inaccessible if the 3 point lift arms weren’t all the way down. It’s also one solid piece so if you break one of the holes (like I did) you have to replace the entire rockshaft housing for a ton of money.

Other than that I would say I was very pleased with the tractor. It did everything Deere designed it to do (and some they didn’t) without any maintenance issues. If you buy one, load the tires for sure.

 

[BearChamion]

You got 30 acres. Neither one of these pissant tractors is your answer. If I were you I wouldn't consider less than a 4066 with a cab.

Always remember you can't have too much tractor.

 

[kcflhrc]

Opinions are like, well, you know. I have had my 3032E for 5 years on my 10 acres and I cant imagine needing anything more. It truly has been a fine machine, very happy with my purchase. And it will be paid off in January.

 

[GuidoSarducci]

Opinions are like, well, you know. I have had my 3032E for 5 years on my 10 acres and I cant imagine needing anything more. It truly has been a fine machine, very happy with my purchase. And it will be paid off in January.

I think it totally depends on what your using it for.

If all I ever wanted to do was move some firewood or the occasional load of mulch/dirt it’s perfect for that. It’s also great for rotary mowing. I could use it in and round the main buildings and not worry about trashing the yard.

It’s not stout enough for major farm work like plowing, discing, or running a small square baler. I don’t think Deere markets it that way though either.

The biggest limitation for me was the loader. It didn’t have enough height to get over a 40 yard dumpster and the capacity was less than I needed.

 

[BearChamion]

I bought too small of a tractor and regretted it for years. All a guy can do is make sure that what he is buying will do what he wants it to.

 

[nikdfish]

If you go with the 3038e, build in the rear remote hydraulics as part of the package. That is something I wish we had done with our "e". They give you an easy way to support a grapple or top 'n tilt for the 3 pt. For us the "e" has worked well for the last 8 years. It was bought primarily for recovery/upkeep bush hogging on a neglected 20 acre property that is roughly 1/2 woods & 1/2 fields, but has been used for anything else that came up (running a chipper, tilling, clearing/leveling land, road maint. etc.).

 

[kcflhrc]

I think it totally depends on what your using it for.

If all I ever wanted to do was move some firewood or the occasional load of mulch/dirt it’s perfect for that. It’s also great for rotary mowing. I could use it in and round the main buildings and not worry about trashing the yard.

It’s not stout enough for major farm work like plowing, discing, or running a small square baler. I don’t think Deere markets it that way though either.

The biggest limitation for me was the loader. It didn’t have enough height to get over a 40 yard dumpster and the capacity was less than I needed.

I brush hog, blade, move gravel and dirt around with our 3032E. It works well for those chores and that's all I need it for. I bought the Tractor, Loader, brush hog, rear blade, loaded tires and delivered for $19k. No one could touch that price in January 2014 from any brand.