JD 535 Baler on a 5095M

[Tx Jim]

I was a bit... tongue-in-cheek with the 5th gear comment. :laughing:
A good friend bales with a 535 and uses a 3020 and 2640 on and off; depending upon if he wants to bale up some small squares at the same time.
Of course, much depends on the type of hay and the moisture content of the hay. AKfish

I've seen a 435 set at full hyd psi and baling a 6" tall bale bring a 2440 to a crawl while baling Coastal. I bale with a JD 4255(120 pto hp) at either 5 or 6 mph depending on smoothness of the field. I rake 3 nine ft cuts with my 14 wheel rake and can hear the governor on my tractor open every once in a while.. Fire ant and Gopher mounds make hay fields rough here. I realize the more gears the better the selection of mph to fit situation but I can't imagine needing "32" speeds. I think I'll send you a starter box of Fire Ants and you can see if they can survive the cold in AK. :laughing:

 

[erervin]

Tx Jim,

Do you recommend welding one continuous bead along the leading edge of each bar or weld a 6-inch bead, stop for 6-inches, weld another 6-inch bead? I'm going to do this before I cut anymore hay down.

I mainly harvest brome, fescue, and prairie grass. Would this type of grass merit welding that 14-inch bead on each side as well?

Thanks for the advice! This saves me a call to my local dealer.

 

[AKfish]

I've seen a 435 set at full hyd psi and baling a 6" tall bale bring a 2440 to a crawl while baling Coastal. I rake 3 nine ft cuts with my 14 wheel rake and can hear the governor on my tractor open every once in a while.. Fire ant and Gopher mounds make hay fields rough here. I think I'll send you a starter box of Fire Ants and you can see if they can survive the cold in AK. :laughing:

I don't think I ever seen an "honest" 1,000lb round bale up here in nearly 35 years! Except the ones that roll up the highway from Canada...

There's a number of fellas that'll sell you lot's of 1,000 lb. er's - but you're only gonna get 750 on a good day...

Those would have to be some "impressive" windrows!! I'd have to venture that the space between the bales laying on the ground is not that far a travel, either!

No gophers or prairie dogs or ant hills here at all!! And I'm not lonely for any of them - at all!! :laughing:

AKfish

 

[Tx Jim]

I don't think I ever seen an "honest" 1,000lb round bale up here in nearly 35 years! Except the ones that roll up the highway from Canada... AKfish[/QUOTE

I know exactly what you mean on the 1000# bales. My 467 set at maximum pressure will make a 1050-1075 #(weighed on scales) bale at 66" tall. A lot of custom baler operators around me make 60" tall bales with psi backed off and call them 1000#s when actually they weighed on scales at 850-900#s

 

[Tx Jim]

Tx Jim,Do you recommend welding one continuous bead along the leading edge of each bar or weld a 6-inch bead, stop for 6-inches, weld another 6-inch bead?
I mainly harvest brome, fescue, and prairie grass. Would this type of grass merit welding that 14-inch bead on each side as well?

On each side I would weld at least a 14" bead on each side on rectangular bars. Coastal Bermuda especially if getting a little drier than it should be will run up the 2 outside belts on each side and lodge and this helps control it.JD to my knowledge never recommended welding a bead in between the rectangular bars that's just some of my experimental attempts to help baling problems. Last time I asked a JD rep he didn't recommend welding on the round rods on the newer type starter rolls but I can verify it helps starting problems.I'm no help on the type grasses(brome, fescue, and prairie grass) you mentioned but the only drawback to welding on starter roll is getting weld so tall that twine gets caught which has only happened a very few times with me.