JD 630 Oil Leak at fuel filter (sediment bowl)

[jhansen17]

Hi all. I've got another silly question.

I have a small (dripping, not spraying) oil leak on my 630 where the oil line connects to the fuel filter. Anything I need to bear in mind when I go to disassemble this to investigate? Am I going to have a lot of oil to catch? A little? None? I'm thinking it's just a matter of taking apart enough to allow me to tighten the connection between the line and the top of the fuel filter, but if anyone has pointers or other things to think about, I'd appreciate the input.

Thanks,
Josh

 

[beenthere]

jhansen17
Which connection are you referring to that leaks and needs a fix?

 

[jhansen17]

jhansen17
Which connection are you referring to that leaks and needs a fix?

See attached pictures.

 

[rScotty]

See attached pictures.

View attachment 664275View attachment 664276

That's not uncommon. I'm not sure why they leak. My 530 has what looks to be the exact same fuel "filter" with the automatic oil pressure actuated gas tap and the glass bowl sediment type cleanable filter.

I spent a while making sure that the fit of the pipe into the fuel tap was perfect and it still leaked. I got to thinking that vibration could be the problem, so I cut a couple of inches out of the metal oil line a few inches from the fuel filter and spliced in a piece of heavy duty black fuel line the right size. Slid it onto the metal pipe for long enough distance so I could put about 3 clamps on each side.
That was back 30 years ago and it worked to stop the drip on my tractor.

BTW, it has nothing to do with the leak. but what I think that oil line does is uses engine oil pressure to turn the automatic fuel tap on when the motor is running and off the other times. .... I think it does that by using oil pressure to flex a plastic diaphram against a spring. Anyway, there is apparently a problem that the plastic of the diaphram tends to go bad from some kinds of modern gas. Maybe it is the alcohol in all the gas.....

Anyway, about ten years ago I went down to buy some filter parts & a new diapham. Talked to the JD parts guy who recommended that I just replace the whole affair with a manual on/off gas tap and plug the oil line. So I did and that solved both problems. But of course in the process I've now lost the filter function. So far no problem, but I need to add a filter to the fuel line.

The '30 series sure are nice tractors. Lots and lots of modern features. I eventually put a wide front on mine and found a loader for it.
rScotty

 

[DaninOhio]

Never seen a sediment bowl like that, looks like a metal cup or is extremely dirty, although I do not have any 30 series tractors. I once ordered a sediment bowl from John Deere that attaches to a pony motor gas tank and it was all metal too. Needless to say that did not come home with me.

 

[rScotty]

Never seen a sediment bowl like that, looks like a metal cup or is extremely dirty, although I do not have any 30 series tractors. I once ordered a sediment bowl from John Deere that attaches to a pony motor gas tank and it was all metal too. Needless to say that did not come home with me.

Ater JD had manufactured the B and A for just about forever without changes, they finished up the horizontal two-cylinder series with the 530 and 630 as the final expression of the old B and A respectively. And they went out in style, making in the final year all sorts of changes that they must have been storing up for decades.

The 30 series are sort of remarkable. New sheetmetal, improved carburation, fully suspended seat, Power Steering, Quick-detach loader, Power adjustable rear wheel width, fully automatic draft control, rear hydraulic remotes, gear drive 3pt adjustment with telescopic arms..... and of course that engine-oil pressure driven automatic fuel valve.

The automatic fuel bowl is heavy glass, not metal. If anything, it is heavier than the old style manual fuel bowls.
BTW, the automatic fuel valve won't leak much unless you loosen it completely and start the engine. Then it will shoot out a stream. IMHO, the problem is the oil line is too poorly supported for its length. So over a period of 50+ years vibration loosens up the flare nut connection to the fuel tap. Just try to tighten up the flare nut. Or do what I did. Cut the pressure line a foot from the fuel bowl and put in a couple of inches of flexible fuel line as a vibration stopper. That worked for us for 30 years - until the alcohol in today's gas finally ruined the flexible diaphram that makes it all work.
Then I simply replaced the automatic fuel tap with an old manual type. Threaded right into the gas tank. I think it cost about $25.00 complete.

Treasure your '30 series. They really are unique.
rScotty

 

[DaninOhio]

Ya, a couple of my two number series tractors were retrofitted with the automatic fuel valve and still work fine. Two of my pony start diesels also had them installed but I have removed them as they create just one more variable to deal with when problems arise.