JD2020 power steering leak

[DogT]

So, now I've got the oil pan leak free, the hyd pressure control valve leak free, it looks like my next leak to fix is the PS leak. Appears to get a lot of oil coming from up where the steering shaft arm connects into the clutch housing, up where it can't be seen from below the tractor. Is this something that the dealer needs to do or can I handle it? My expertise includes rebuilding a 69 Norton Commando down to the last bolt, but I don't have a machine shop and I send things out like valve guide replacements and general machine work.

Is this something easy, or is it going to require taking the PS off the tractor and rebuilding the insides? First thing the tech manual says is to remove inlet pressure oil line. Where is that? Am I really going to need the special JD tools to do a couple of the things mentioned in the manual if I remove the innards?

This may be something I'll attempt after the mowing season is done and before the snow flies, end of next month, unless it's just a gasket I can easily replace.

 

[jd110]

You need to replace seal #8. To to this, you need to remove cover #1 from the right side of the clutch housing. Then remove bolt and retainer #15 and 6. That will allow pin #4 to pulled out of steering shaft #7. Then wind the steering wheel full right to disengage the steering valve link from the shaft. Then remove bolt and washer #10 and 11. Then the steering arm #9 can be removed from the shaft. The shaft will need to be slid to the right enough to drop the steering arm out. The steering arm is splined to the shaft on a tapered spline and it should be on there tight. I usually thread a longer 5/8" bolt into the end of the shaft (around 6") and then use a heavy hammer to hit end of the bolt to break loose the tapered spline fit. Once the arm is off and out of the way, the seal is easy to replace.

 

[DogT]

That sounds like something I can do easy enough and not have to dig into the PS valves. I guess those 'freeze plug' looking things on the left side are for access to some of those parts? Thanks for the info, I would probably burn my hair off trying to figure how to remove the steering arm from the shaft. Will I need to replace gasket #3? Or can I just use some prematex ultra black if it breaks up? I'm sure it will be hard as a rock.

 

[DogT]

BTW what thread is that bolt #11 so I can have one ready?

 

[Tx Jim]

Here's the capscrew(key 11) spec's.

 

[DogT]

Thanks, 5/8 UNC, is there a web link to those JD 'part details' so I can look things up on my own?

Tractor seems to run better and a bit quieter in the hydraulics with the pressure valve not seriously leaking. I did find the small o-ring in the drained oil, it was pretty flat. If I get the PS leak fixed that may help too. Local dealer called this AM and have the PS seal and gasket in. I can hardly stand it, a leak free 2020 (relatively). Then to clean up that Exxon Valdez oil slick in the barn.

 

[Tx Jim]

To look up spec's on JDparts.com website one must register with a JD dealer on website. Then parts are put in shopping cart then one can right click on part number entered in shopping cart to reveal the JD part spec's. Most but not all parts spec's are available. HTH's,Jim

 

[Zebrafive]

To look up spec's on JDparts.com website one must register with a JD dealer on website. Then parts are put in shopping cart then one can right click on part number entered in shopping cart to reveal the JD part spec's. Most but not all parts spec's are available. HTH's,Jim

In addition to what TxJim said, you will also know price and if in stock at your local dealer (the dealer you sign up for) and you can place an order for not in stock parts to be ordered by that dealer. Well worth signing up for.

 

[DogT]

Thanks, yes I did a search on 'JD part details' and found it. What I'm wondering now is since I have the rebuild kit for the PS (AT25588) should I go ahead and take it all off and do the whole nine yards, or is it really worth it? I do get a bit of seepage out of the top of the steering, but the steering wheel is somewhat damaged and there's no center JD plug. I'm wondering if I'm opening a can of worms with that one?

I don't know how many hours are on this machine, but probably lots, it's not new to me, but the engine is strong and doesn't appear to burn oil. I've had it since about '85 or so and has a 145 loader on it and it's had light usage from me except when we get lots of snow, I've got a mile long driveway and there's been plenty of times when I've had to use the loader to move the snow. I have replaced the brakes and the hydraulic pump many years ago, there was some metal brake chaff in the hyd oil, that's why I replaced the hyd pump, it quit. I put rare earth magnets in the intake to the hyd filter to collect that.

 

[DogT]

Well, I haven't been successful at breaking the splined shaft away from the steering arm lever. It all came apart pretty easy except for the seal on the cover, that was a bear. I made sure the steering linkage was up away from the shaft arms. I even hit the bolt I threaded into the shaft with a digging bar about 5 times and no movement. I don't want to put heat on it, afraid of fire. Any other bright ideas before I have it hauled in?

I think most of the other leaks are gone, I didn't see any drips from the oil pan or the hyd pressure valve. Didn't realize you could look at the clutch in one of those inspection ports, it's dry so the rear engine seal seems OK.

 

[jd110]

I usually use an 8 or 10 pound hammer to hit on the bolt. You need to hit it hard and don't be afraid. I usually keep the flat washer on the long bolt so the shaft doesn't fly across the floor when it comes out. Usually 3 or 4 solid hits with the sledge hammer will break it loose.

 

[DogT]

OK, I'll try again tomorrow. I first hit it with a 2# and then a 3# and then the digging bar from the end, which must be about 15#. I've got an 8# maul, I'll try that next, didn't realize the shaft will come out so I'll put the flat washer back on. I'd really prefer if I didn't have to send it in. I was being a bit cautious, I suppose I can thread that 6" bolt in all the way, there doesn't appear to be anything on the other side that will hinder doing that? I notice to that there's some end play on that shaft and when I hit it I make sure that the arm is pushed all the way up against the trans body, maybe I should try it away from the body to give it some momentum?

 

[DogT]

The 8 lb. maul did it. I put some blocks of wood beside the bolt on the trans in case I missed, got up on the foot rests and swung it backwards between my legs where I could get better action than standing off to the side with the digging bar and it finally broke loose. Now to get the old seal out and the new one in.

 

[DogT]

All buttoned up. The second worst thing was putting the shaft back on the steering arm. I had to enlist my wife who held the shaft and turned it while I manipulated the steering arm. I always have trouble with seals, but I got it in without beating it up. Used a piece of 2" pvc as a driver. It finally went into place. Any ideas on the torque on the 5/8" bolt? Lots?

 

[Zebrafive]

All buttoned up. The second worst thing was putting the shaft back on the steering arm. I had to enlist my wife who held the shaft and turned it while I manipulated the steering arm. I always have trouble with seals, but I got it in without beating it up. Used a piece of 2" pvc as a driver. It finally went into place. Any ideas on the torque on the 5/8" bolt? Lots?

If the arm to shaft cap screw, 170ft-lb. Tech manual says tighten to 170, strike with a hammer and retighten to 170ft-lb.

 

[DogT]

Thanks, I'm not sure why I didn't look in my tech manual. Age I guess. I haven't lit it off yet, I'll power wash it when I get it started, or I may just go ahead and get the mid pto seal and install that first after a drain. I did see in the book they show 2 places to drain the trans fluid but I'll pull the long filter first and see what comes out of there.

 

[DogT]

I ran the 2020 for about an hour today and it appears that I still have a leak in the PS shaft seal. I think I'm just going to have it hauled in and fixed. Everything else appears good. It even seems to run better, especially the hydraulics, probably from fixing the serious leak in the hyd pressure control valve.

 

[DogT]

I'm wondering if I should try installing the seal again, or just have someone else do it. Is there any magic to get this seal installed without leaking? It appeared to go in fine, seated flush with the surface and there didn't appear any problem getting the shaft back in place, it wasn't hard to put back, getting the steering rod into the pin that holds it in the shaft arms. I did have to get the wife hold the shaft while I fiddled with the steering arm to get it on the splines. I could probably do it in a couple hours now outside getting the sealant off the cover and re-installing a new gasket. I took a good look up the arm today and it appears to be coming right out the bottom of the seal, I can see the seal against the housing from underneath. It doesn't look like that much fluid coming out from the seal, but by the time it gets to the bottom of the housing, it's all over and dripping. The mid-pto seal I installed is not leaking and that one got seated a bit deep.

 

[Tx Jim]

If it was my tractor I'd attempt to replace the seal again. The 2nd attempt should be easier. Good luck on your decision.

 

[DogT]

Yes, I'm going to do it again unless I can find someone reliable that will come out and work on it, hauling is too expensive. The trouble is the seal has to go on before the shaft is pushed back through the arm, it would be better if the seal could go on just before the arm goes on the shaft and after the shaft is attached to the PS rod from above, but it doesn't appear that's possible. What I think I will do is have the wheels crancked to the right so I don't have to rotate/shift things any more than needed. It shouldn't take me a couple hours now that I've had the arm off the shaft and I sort of know what I'm doing. I think draining oil out of that Allen bolt for the long filter will be enough to get the oil level low enough, that drained almost 5G as I remember.