Jima 284 Frontend Loader Problem

[b dukes]

Maybe someone here can help me with my problem. I came across a good deal on a 284 Farm Boss. Some people from out of state brought it up to a hunting club to use and started have problems with it. I was able to by it for next to nothing. It needed a clutch , so I put the complete clutch and pressure plate assbly in and fixed some problems with the 4x4 drive shaft. The loader was working before I made these repairs. I drained engine and lift oil and changed them. I used 303 NAPA hydro oil in the lift and Delo 15 40 in the motor. After using the tractor for less that a hour the loader started not wanting to work. I am getting fluid on both sides of the cylinders. I took the valve apart but couldnt find and problems. It started back working but done the same thing again. I did notice that the engine oil I just changed was thin but did not smell like it had fuel in it. What kind of fluid does the lift need. I had a problem kinda like this with my dozer. When I first bought it I added regular lift oil to it, but it was suppose to use 30w oil like the engine, when the oil got hot it went through the pump seal and was going into the motor, thinning the oil. Drained the oil and changed to 30W problem solved. Could this be happening . Any ideas would be a great help thanks

 

[greg_g]

First off, 303 oil is too thick. You should be using AW32/ISO32, it's a 10W equivalent. The 303 may have collapsed the suction strainer in the sump (under the seat).

If the suction strainer is ok, the Jinma hydraulic pump design does in fact make it possible for hydraulic fluid to enter the crankcase (blown seal). Pump pressure goes to **** for sure, but you should also notice the level on the engine oil dipstick has gotten unusually high.

//greg//

 

[b dukes]

The 303 is what was recommended by the guy I bought my clutch and other parts from, I ask him because I had no idea. I guess I will go ahead and change to oil over to 32 and see what happends. I will check the strainer, but if you take the FEL off and hook the lines back, the lift and the power steering work fine??

 

[Rich Waugh]

If everything works fine with the loader disconnected from the hydraulics then I'd guess you have a problem with your bypass valve in the loader control valve assembly. Or possibly in the quick connects themselves, though that usually manifests as a blown pump when the QDs deadhead the pump.

Definitely check your engine oil level to make sure the hydraulic pump hasn't blown the seal and started dumping hydraulic fluid into the crankcase.

 

[bluechip]

If the oil level in the engine is increasing, the pump seal is blown, especially if there is any chance the tractor was started before the loader was reinstalled during the clutch job. It is important that flow continuity from the pump to the 3 point lift is maintained at all times on these as the pressure relief valve is int he 3 point lift box. Another common problem is the slot in the pump drive shaft in the engine timing cover will wear, and the edges of the tang on the pump shaft wear and then all of a sudden, no hydrualic flow, or intermittent flow as the parts wear. removing the pump will allow you to inspect the seal and the drive.

 

[b dukes]

It is possible that it was started with the loader off and without the hoses hooked back up. I put the clutch in but my father finished up all the small stuff. The seal is it a lip seal or an o-ring? Any chance of anybody having a breakdown of the pump? I would like to know what I am looking at before I remove it. Is it possible to see the damage if the seal is blown or just replace it?

 

[greg_g]

Don't get ahead of yourself. First check the engine oil for an unexpected level on the dipstick. If that's not unusual, then take the loader out of the equation. Don't do this with the engine running. I don't know how your loader is plumbed in, so these instructions are generic. If they don't pertain to your setup, give us a better idea of how the loader is integrated into the tractor hydraulics.

Again, don't do this with the engine running. Disconnect the two loader hoses from the tractor. That leaves you with two disconnected hoses on the tractor. One should be a female connector, the other should be male. Mate them. That restores the basic hydraulic loop on the tractor. Start the engine, raise/lower the rear lift, test the steering, report the results.

//greg//

 

[b dukes]

I took the loader off the tractor and hooked the quick connects back together. The suction line is hard piped. The discharge of the pump with the loader on, goes from the pump to the bottom of the loader control valve and back out to the tractor. The line coming out of the pump has a female quick connect on it but it doesnt have a ball in it to seat it off, so if the tractor was cranked with the line off it would have just dumped fluid out on the ground.,

After I hooked the lines together I cranked the tractor. Power steering works and the lift works. I checked the oil before I started and after I let it run about an hour, it seems to have gained some on the stick but it is hard to tell, but it is well above the high full mark. As i said before I changed the oil and ran it about 2 hours., now if you pull the stick and check the oil it is really thin, just runs off the stick. The only thing I can think of is hydro fluid getting in, if you smell the oil you cant smell any fuel in it.

I bought all the repair parts from Circle G in MS , the best I remember and they are the ones that suggested the 303 oil.

 

[SPIKER]

I took the loader off the tractor and hooked the quick connects back together. The suction line is hard piped. The discharge of the pump with the loader on, goes from the pump to the bottom of the loader control valve and back out to the tractor. The line coming out of the pump has a female quick connect on it but it doesnt have a ball in it to seat it off, so if the tractor was cranked with the line off it would have just dumped fluid out on the ground.,

After I hooked the lines together I cranked the tractor. Power steering works and the lift works. I checked the oil before I started and after I let it run about an hour, it seems to have gained some on the stick but it is hard to tell, but it is well above the high full mark. As i said before I changed the oil and ran it about 2 hours., now if you pull the stick and check the oil it is really thin, just runs off the stick. The only thing I can think of is hydro fluid getting in, if you smell the oil you cant smell any fuel in it.

I bought all the repair parts from Circle G in MS , the best I remember and they are the ones that suggested the 303 oil.

the HYD pump must be hooked up at all times, if you disconnect the pump from the hyd lines and crank the engine over it will blow out the end/shaft seal on the hyd pump OR blow the pump housing apart. If the Oil is rising then you are loosing Hyd Fluid into the oil and the Hyd Pump has issue and needs repair/replaced. There are rebuild kits available for them but they are not easy to get fixed right. sounds like you are not real familiar with maintenance so I would suggest a NEW pump which they are not too bad. My brother pressure washed my tractor and cut a seal on my pump & picked up a rebuild kit and a new pump rebuilt mine but it would not rotate and seal either it would rotate or seal but not both...

Mark

 

[b dukes]

I ordered the hyd pump seal kit, should be here in a few days. I will install it and see what happens. The pump shaft and drive are in good shape. Thanks for all the input.