Jinma 224 injection pump timing

TractorGuy1 · Nov 7, 2005

I came across some info previously that described how to adjust the injector pump timing without removing the rad hose ect but cannot find it. If I remember correctly this could be done while the engine was running and all you needed to do was turn a screw or bolt to advance or ****** the timing.
I hope I didn't just dream this.
If this is possible does anyone know how to do it. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Robert

hbaird · Nov 7, 2005

I have a JM200LE with the 380 engine. I wrote up my experience about retiming the fuel injector pump a few months back. I replaced the bottom radiator hose with a 24in flexible hose. This allowed me to get a 13mm socket on the 6 bolts holding the cover over the injector pump drive gear and run the tractor between adjustments. After removing the cover I could get to the three bolts holding the injector drive to the drive gear. Note! All of this is done with the engine OFF! After loosening the three bolts the injector can be turned clockwise,facing the rear of the tractor, to advance and counterclockwise to ******. I marked the starting point so I could at least get back to a safe running condition. You will lose a little oil but you can run the tractor after each trial adjustment after tightening at least one of the drive gear bolts and without cover replacement. I made several tries during my experiment. I found a point where the torque was much better and the engine started much quicker. I left the long hose on then for a couple of months while I used the tractor looking for problems the advance might have caused. At idle with full load on the Hydraulics I get a light knock now. The engine vibration level is higher and the mechanical noise is a little higher. But the exhaust is quieter. Before the engine was V6 automobile smooth. The engine takes much longer to quit now when you pull the Kill knob. I have more pulling power now in High range than before in Low. I have since tried to increase the max RPM but the throttle linkage needs work. I can only get about 2400 RPM. One additional comment. I ran pure water in the radiator, as the manufacturer probably intended during my testing. The engine ran very cool. I had to really work it to get the thermostat to open.
Harold

TractorGuy1 · Nov 21, 2005

Harold, thanks for the injector timing steps. I tried this and the tractor now starts much easier. But I am still having a performance issue. I notice this when moving in H2 or H3. It seems to be low on power when you start moving, the engine lugs and puffs until you get some groud speed then it settles down. Do you have any suggestions on what to check next. I found a thread on adjusting the Rack, but am not sure if it applies to this and I do not know how to do this.

Thanks, Robert

hbaird · Nov 21, 2005

The rack adjustment was the other shoe dropping in my performance problem. My main complaint from the beginning with my Jinma 200LE was poor throttle response. Re timing helped both starting and power but the throttle response was still poor. I read about Rack adjustment and tried it fifteen minutes later. This was what I needed. I have much more power now. H2 is now my transport gear. H3 is usable. I can pull my box blade much easier now. For now I have the rack screwed all the way in so it smokes more than necessary and running heavy load full throttle would likely reduce engine life. As soon as I find a local source for safety wire I will make a final adjustment. Traction limits the power I can put to the ground.
Harold

TractorGuy1 · Nov 21, 2005

Do you have the steps on how to do this adjustment. I am not sure where the set screw is that was talked about on the rack. I am assuming the rack is the injector pump but not sure. Any help is appreciated as I do not want to do this wrong and make things worse.

Thanks, Robert

bjr · Nov 21, 2005

I own a crate 354. I put it together myself and glad I did. Besides the normal flushing and replacing all fluids I replaced the fuel tank screen and valve with standard 1/4 inch needle vavle. No screen, just the spin on filter. So I could get some fuel to the engine. The original Jinma tank valve and strainer had rediculous small holes. I couldn't blown through with air pressure so I didn't figure fuel would be able to flow. I wonder how many power issues are nothing more than this crappy excuse for a tank shut off valve. My tractor starts very good even in cold weather (WA State) and has excellant power. Caterpillar used to have a warning on their full tank caps "Buy Clean Fuel, Keep It Clean", I have good luck doin' that. bjr

hbaird · Nov 21, 2005

Sorry about not being more specific on how to. If you have the Y380 3 cylinder as I do the rack adjustment is on the very back of the governor portion of the fuel injector assembly. It is a long headed 11 MM bolt with two copper washers and a thin 11 MM nut on the bolt shaft. It is most likely safety wired in with the throttle stop assembly. On mine there is a bracket terminating the kill control cable directly in front of the rack adjustment. I needed a lot of light to see the rack adjust clearly. I first cut away the safety wire. Note this may end any warranty you have on your tractor. Screwing the rack in increased the fuel flow range and out reduced it. It appears the rack controls the amount of fuel the governor can supply the injectors. On a gasoline engine a governor controls the intake area. For a diesel the intake is always wide open and only the fuel supply is controlled. flooring the throttle will give max fuel then as RPM increases the governor will cut back the fuel supply to match the load. The initial wide open condition causes the blast of exhaust smoke. This adjustment is best done with the engine at normal operating temp. I always make small changes and then test. The throttle lever is there for an easy no load rev test. I then ran down my drive in H3 for a load test. I have ended up with my rack all the way in until I get some safety wire to hold it in place. Do this at your own risk. Some say you can destroy an engine if you go too far in. I did an hour or so of what is now light throttle boxblade work yesterday with no ill effects. With two wheel drive my wheels spin very easy limiting how much load I can put on the engine. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.
Harold