jinma 224 shuttle shift linkage question

[TSMART]

This is a seperate question so I posted seperately.

I have been having a real hard time getting into reverse; the dealer said this was natural for newer jinmas and the problem would go away. Most of the time I couldnt get into reverse unless I lowered the RPMs waaay down.

So I started looking for an adjustment, by following the linage, shaft, etc, down to under the floorboard (right side) and sure enough I found one there.. on the heavy duty linkage rod. I released the stop nut, rotated the adjuster like 6 revs, put back on the stop nut and got on the tractor.

It went into reverse just perfectly. BUT I couldnt get it into forward now. So I went back to the adjuster, went the other way this time by half, and now it gets into forward and reverse just fine. I now know that there is only like three threads which are the "sweet spot", allowing me to get into both gears.

Yet theres a LOT of "slop" in that linkage. It uses big washers, little cotter pins, just sloppy design it seems to me. Anybody made an attempt to eliminate all that slop???

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

The adjustment is a fine tune for sure ... does not take much.

You have the adjust on the metal rod with a jam nut under your right foot and then there is the adjustments at each end of the cable.

You have aready had shifting problems in another thread you stated that you used a cotter key/pin in the place of a roll pin. That a good place to check for play/slop. It is normal to be able to twist the adjusting rod that is held in place with the washers and cotter keys but........ it should be pretty tight forward and back.

If the shift fork has got bent some ????.... that will effect shifting.

If the fork is not bent and it is adjusted properly it should get smoother with age/use.

Click on link and look under 254LE Shuttle Shift Cover Removed.

Jinma Dealer, Ranch Hand Supply , Compact Jinma Tractors

Let us know what you find.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[TSMART]

Yes, I had replaced the roll pin with a cotter pin, and I addressed that this weekend. Went to TSC. They have roll pins, I found....but NOT metric roll pins which are necessary. I tried three different sizes, some too big some too small, none just right. Anybody know if thats a commonly sized roll pin?

Also, you cant just hammer a roll pin in tight places. Any tricks on how to install roll pin in tight places??

 

[SPIKER]

to put in roll pins in bad locations try using grove lock pliers, (also called water pump pliers or plumbers pliers or channel locks per the big brand)

also using small nail setters works great (the spring loaded ones where you push down and it puts a punch hole for drilling ) I used this self hammering punch (2.99 from Harb Freight) to put in several roll pins already that were not hammer accessable. Used a small bench grinder stone to grind in a step into the punch end. Used the step with tip inside the roll pin to push the pin in using the snap/hammer action worked like a champ. must be carefull not to use the punch as is as it is tappered and will expand the roll pin as it goes in. You could use a flat metal washer in between if you have room... (I didn't have room working on what ever it was, (I forget what I was needing it for as in working on now.) Just came up with that idea myself.

anyhow happy roll pin installing.. also you can drill it out to next size US std roll pin>?

Mark M

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Yes, I had replaced the roll pin with a cotter pin, and I addressed that this weekend. Went to TSC. They have roll pins, I found....but NOT metric roll pins which are necessary. I tried three different sizes, some too big some too small, none just right. Anybody know if thats a commonly sized roll pin?

Also, you cant just hammer a roll pin in tight places. Any tricks on how to install roll pin in tight places??

Yes, it uses a metric roll pin.... don't know the size right off.

Roll pins can be hard to get started sometime. Grinding taper on one end helps. If you can not get it started or not able to get to it ...... you will have to remove enough so you can.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[TSMART]

I had to adjust the linkage again today, but cant seem to get it right. There are two places to adjust the shuttle shift linkage, the top rod with the locknut, attaches to the top half of the linkage at the tranny...and the bottom adjustor which actually is on the end of the cable which goes to the bottom half of the linkage at the tranny.... At that one, you remove a cotter pin, then the stay pin, then rotate the fitting.

Today, I ended up having to get under the tractor, spin the adjustor on the rod to get it into reverse, then spin it back again the other way to get it into forward, I am having trouble getting this setting "just right" so that it goes into reverse as well as forward every time. Is this a sort of "pull-pull" system...is the idea to take out slop (free play) by turning one or the other...?? If so, how do I know what would be the correct "end" points??.Or which one of the two should I turn to get the slop out?

Anybody following me here?

 

[cedarparker]

Also, you cant just hammer a roll pin in tight places. Any tricks on how to install roll pin in tight places??

I found a trick for starting the pin that holds the clutch activation lever onto its shaft. You have to install it from below and the lever covers most of your working space.

Use a 1/4" metric socket in the right size (5mm for the clutch roll pin) on a long extension. The fit is snug but not too snug, and you can tap on the drive end of the extension to start the pin without risk of spreading it open.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Nice DIY tip. Thanks for sharing.

Chris

 

[PILOON]

And if you need that pin to be snug wrap a few turns of masking tape aound the pin.

I once drilled a 5/32 hole in the end of 3/8 rod and used tape for snug fit, also had to bend the rod into an 'S' shape to align with my 4WD
shifter fork roll pin holes.