I had a problem with grinding when engauging the pto. I got the clutch adjustment procedure from other post here. I tightened the pto adjstment bolts #6 about 1/4turn that fixed the problem . I was mowing some tall grass on sat. I noticed the pto slipping so I loosened # 6 1/8 turn. The pto did not grind when engaged however it did slip a little it was better but not right. I have 1.5 " free play in the travel of clutch pedal. When mowing and the clutch was slipping I pushed the clutch down some normaly the tractor would stop the forward motion and the pto would increase in rpm . That did not happen. When I push the clutch in the tractor would stop forward motion before the pto would pick up rpm. The fingers that touch the throw out bearing are all about 1/8 inch away and all seem to touch at the same time. I know that I am dealing with a two stage clutch that I know nothing about. Any sugestions are apperciated. Thanks Robby
jinma 224 w/600 hr pto clutch adjustment
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
There's a chance that one or more of the jam nuts (#7) are loose to the point where they're permitting one or more adjustment nuts (#6) to back out under vibration. Having said that, 600 hours might just be nearing end-of-life for your friction disc. You can adjust out wear throughout the lift of the friction material. But at a certain point the copper rivets can become exposed, and they can cut grooves in the pressure plate. To avoid having to replace the pressure plate too, it's a good idea to replace the friction disc in time.
But since you have to go to all the work of splitting the tractor, it's a good time to rebuild/replace the whole clutchpack. I went the clutchpack route, then rebuilt the take-offs to be used as future replacements.
//greg//
But since you have to go to all the work of splitting the tractor, it's a good time to rebuild/replace the whole clutchpack. I went the clutchpack route, then rebuilt the take-offs to be used as future replacements.
//greg//
You think it is that bad? This is the
first time I have even adjusted
the cluth. I checked last night to
make sure Everything was tight. I
looked through the access hole. I also
Touched each finger there was very
little movement. I am not sure how
The two stage clutch works but the
Tractor has not lost any power.
first time I have even adjusted
the cluth. I checked last night to
make sure Everything was tight. I
looked through the access hole. I also
Touched each finger there was very
little movement. I am not sure how
The two stage clutch works but the
Tractor has not lost any power.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Well it's the PTO you're having problems with. That's 1/2 of a dual stage clutch. The other half is for the drive wheels. But your "very little movement" comment got my attention. There should be NO movement, unless/until you depress the clutch pedal. You ordinarily shouldn't be able to move them by hand through the inspection window. You mentioned earlier 1/8" gap between finger tips and bearing face. That's about the MAX you want, The actual spec is 2.5mm +/- 0.5mm. And 2.5mm alone is 1/10th inch. On a 600 hour tractor, it wouldn't hurt to bring that gap down to somewhere between 1/16th and 1/32.
//greg//
//greg//
EE_Bota
Veteran Member
As you know, there is a gap you must check for the PTO clutch. It is important to remember that so long as there is any gap on all three PTO adjustment screws, the PTO clutch is fully engaging. So if it slips under that condition, it is either overloaded or ruined by wear or contamination.
Anytime those gaps and the finger gaps exist, both clutches are fully engaged, and therefore should not slip.
Anytime those gaps and the finger gaps exist, both clutches are fully engaged, and therefore should not slip.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
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- 6,126
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- Western Kentucky
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Yup, that's the #6 he's talking about. There are three of them. And the spec gap on a new disc is 1.2mm. But tightening #6 as the disc wears necessarily narrows that gap. There is no real spec for a worn disc, just close the gap till the disc grabs again - taking care not to tighten to the point where the rivets can score the pressure plate.
//greg//
//greg//
I made a crude feeler gauge out of a piece of stiff wire .098"
I adjusted all three fingers to .098 to face of bearing.
I then had grinding when engauging the pto. I readjusted
#6 bolts to stop the grinding. I will try it on sat. And get back
With you. Thanks Greg and this forum for all of the info.
Robby
I adjusted all three fingers to .098 to face of bearing.
I then had grinding when engauging the pto. I readjusted
#6 bolts to stop the grinding. I will try it on sat. And get back
With you. Thanks Greg and this forum for all of the info.
Robby
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
I found on my tractor I had to adjust the stop bolt on the clutch to get the PTO to disengage fully even once the gaps were set properly.
Here's the way I like to do it: Get a helper. With the tractor off, put the PTO in gear. Remove the clutch switch. Have your helper push the clutch in all the way and go to the back of the tractor and see if you can turn the PTO output shaft. Adjust the bolt to the tightest setting where you can freely turn the output shaft. Put the clutch switch back and adjust it so that it closes when the pedal is against the bolt. If you put the switch in too much it will act as the clutch stop and you'll smash it when you stomp on the pedal.
If you don't have a helper to press on the clutch, I've found that a come-along on the pedal attached to something sturdy is good for holding the pedal down. Nothing else I could think of holds it securely all the way down.
Here's the way I like to do it: Get a helper. With the tractor off, put the PTO in gear. Remove the clutch switch. Have your helper push the clutch in all the way and go to the back of the tractor and see if you can turn the PTO output shaft. Adjust the bolt to the tightest setting where you can freely turn the output shaft. Put the clutch switch back and adjust it so that it closes when the pedal is against the bolt. If you put the switch in too much it will act as the clutch stop and you'll smash it when you stomp on the pedal.
If you don't have a helper to press on the clutch, I've found that a come-along on the pedal attached to something sturdy is good for holding the pedal down. Nothing else I could think of holds it securely all the way down.
Ok this is what I did sat. I got to the field
Started the tractor tried to ingauge the pto.
There was too much grinding so I turned
The tractor off ingauged the pto. I then mowed
For 6 hrs. I had no slipping of the pto clutch.
When I got back home I followed quick sand
Farmers procedure there is no more grinding.
I will put it back to work this weekend thanks
Again for your help Robby
Started the tractor tried to ingauge the pto.
There was too much grinding so I turned
The tractor off ingauged the pto. I then mowed
For 6 hrs. I had no slipping of the pto clutch.
When I got back home I followed quick sand
Farmers procedure there is no more grinding.
I will put it back to work this weekend thanks
Again for your help Robby
I have the same problem where do I find the adjustment with possibly a picture to do this adjustment?