Jinma 254 Injector pump

[Kooosh]

Having trouble getting my Jinma 254 to run properly. It will start but won't idle. Have read quite a few threads and it appears my shut-off lever/rod is stuck. I've attached an image of my IP. Pulling on the "pull to stop" does not do anything and there is little movement on the arm which is on the injector pump. More research indicated that I can remove the cover on the back of the IP and free/clean the rod and then add fresh oil. Is the cover that the dipstick goes into the one that needs to be removed?

And when refilling with fresh oil, how do I know how much to put in or should I just check by using the dipstick?

Lastly, that lever on the back of the motor, should it be connected to anything?

Thanks!

 

[thepumpguysc]

Will the engine shut off by moving the lever BY HAND.?? if yes, the problem is w/ the cable..
Yes, check/add engine oil to the proper amount indicated by the dip stick.. start w/ 2oz & go from there..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Looking at the last pic.. there looks to be a LOW IDLE SCREW.. Just turn the screw..
Have a look at your throttle lever.. move it by hand w/ the engine NOT RUNNING & SEE how it works..
There should be a ledge/bump-out that the screws hit on.. pull it to wide open & see what the screw hits on the lever..
Now do the same for low idle.. & adjust accordingly..
I've personally have never had my hands on 1.. but they're all/most, licenced from another manuf. that I AM familiar with.. & they work the same..

 

[Turbo]

what is the lowest rpm it will run before stalling?
the lever on the engine is you decompression lever , if i am not mistaken , make sure it's not on.
the side of your injector , the long lever is the shut off , I would replace the cable since it's not moving the lever, and the small lever is throttle.
I also noticed you primer is leaking, I not sure if your is the type that has to be locked in place.

 

[Kooosh]

I've just replaced the IP oil as previous owner must have put too much oil in as the oil would come out when removing the IP dipstick...

My gauges aren't functioning well but very low rpms and only for a few seconds. Even moving the shut off lever by hand, there is minimal movement. How much play should there be?

Yes, my primer is the type where you screw it out and it pops out. When priming, should fuel come out of it?

Thanks for all the help so far, this is my first diesel tractor and still learning everything about it.

 

[Turbo]

you should be able to shut off the fuel by hand, unless you cable so stiff for it to move. cut the cable or undo the screw.
make sure the primer lock down and secured , its a source for air ,and one of the symptoms is a bad idle .

 

[Kooosh]

Okay, still not running..

I've undone the cable screw for the shut-off lever and it has full function now.

- changed the IP oil
- Cleaned the fuel sediment bowl

What should I try next?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Have u checked the banjo bolt connectors on the supply pump for debris..??
It looks as tho they may have filter screens in them.?? IF SO, they may be clogged..
Just unscrew the bolt connector UNDER the hand primer & check & see if it has a filter screen..

 

[RonMar]

Yep, check where thepumpguy indicated. You should also get fuel flowing freely from there when you open the tank sediment bowl valve. If you have this, re-install the banjo bolt and unscrew the primer handle(spring should pop it up) the other hose runs up to the fuel filter, then runs back to the injector pump. On top of the fuel filter you should find a bolt. Loosen it and pump the primer plunger untill you get only fuel out then tighten the bolt.

There should be another bleeder port on the injector pump. If you have a wider shot of the IP, we might be able to help you find it as your pump is different than mine. The bleeder on mine is a bolt with a ring thru it. You need to open that and pump the primer some more to push any air from the filter to the IP and out that vent. Once you just get fuel out that vent, close it and compress and screw in the plunger handle.

Next take a wrench and loosen the fittings where the hard pipes connect to the injectors. Now set throttle to midrange and crank the engine till you get only fuel out of the hard lines. This will force any air out of the hard lines. If there is any air in the hardlines the injectors will not fire as the air prevents the line from building enough pressure to fire the injectors. Once you get only fuel, tighten the hardline fittings you loosened and see if it will start/run. If you didn't get any fuel coming out of the loosened fittings while cranking try more throttle. If you still don't get fuel out at the fittings you may have an IP issue inside the governor where that fuel cut lever attaches.

Basically the throttle pushes on a spring which pushes the fuel rack open(more fuel). The governor flyweights as they spin push against that spring and try and close the fuel rack. When the two forces balance the engine runs at a stable RPM. That shutoff lever overrides the spring/governor and closes the rack all the way...

 

[thepumpguysc]

WELL SAID, Ron..