Jinma 284 Electrical Problems

[don7231]

I was having battery problems about 6 months ago. I replaced the original battery which was about a year old. The new battery worked fine for a few months but now it is dead every time I use it. I was able to charge the battery or jump it at first but now I can't even get the tractor to turn over. I used a volt meter and the battery shows 12 volts. I also used the volt meter and connected to two terminals on the alternator and it show 12 volts.

Any ideas what might be happening. Could I have a bad battery? Could it be a bad alternator? Any ideas on what I can check next?

Thanks,

Don

 

[greg_g]

Unbolt the battery ground cable from the frame and grind the paint down to bare metal for better metal on metal contact.

Also, you should check voltage (at the battery) with tractor running too. After it's started, a good alternator/voltage regulator should make the voltage reading jump to somewhere between 13.2 and 14.5 volts.

//greg//

 

[bruce1966us]

if the battery reads 12 volts and the engine will not turn, I would check the starter.

 

[gunslinger101]

A bad battery will show 12 volts on a meter, the battery will need to be load tested to get a real reading on the condition of the battery.

 

[RonMar]

As Greg said, check that ground wire connection where it connects to the frame. I would also check all the connections on the starter itself(with the battery disconnected of course) and both battery connections while you have them off.

Is this a maintenance free battery or does it have access caps to add water/electrolite to the cells? If it has acces caps, are the cells full of fluid up to the full mark(bottom lip of filler hole)?

The next step I would do is to attach a battery charger and charge the battery overnight(20+ hours) at a low rate 2-5 amps. A fully charged battery should start the beast at least a few times.

With a fully charged battery, measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running. This should be between 13.5 and 14.5 VDC. As an example, my 284 running at 1200 RPM measures 13.9 VDC at the battery. This was with all the lights off. If the voltage regulator is working properly, The voltage should stay fairly constant with load and RPM changes. Under the same conditions, with all the lights(head, running and rear work light) switched on, the voltage only shifted to 13.95 VDC at the battery. Running the RPM up above 1800 had little effect on the above measured voltages.

Good Luck.

 

[Boltonpower]

Hi Don,,

Good ideas to check from the other posters. Here's something else to check that I've run into several times. Where the positive cable from the battery connects to the starter post there is a plastic collar that is supposted to center the white wire loop that runs power to everything else on the tractor except the starter. It sits on the post and centering provides good surface contact on the post's hub below. Works fine when it's assembled properly. However when the collar isn't cast quite right and the assembler doesn't trim it plastic flashing can get underneath the white wire's loop and cause intermitant or no power to the dash. That means no power to the solenoid. So the battery will look good but the starter and everything else may not work. Had it happen 6 months ago and again just today on
a tractor in my shop for service. Take a look.

Cheers
Graham

 

[don7231]

I need some new ideas. I had the battery checked and it is o.k. I disconnected the battery from the starter cylenoid. I connected the possitive lead to the white cable bypassing the starter cylenoid. I jumped from my truck battery to the white cable and ground. My lights and horn work fine. When I try to started the engine, it barely cranks and seems like the battery is dead. I also tried it with the fully charged tractor battery and got the same results. Any ideas? Could it be the starter, alternator, or ignition switch? Thanks for any help, I am about to go crazy.

Don

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

Edit, disregard my post. I seen only the post above mine and did not realize this was a problem that has not been resolved. I offered some of the previous advise.

 

[6or7dazeaweek]

Don: Reminds me of my own battery problems I had years ago. Battery & connections all checked good but still the battery would go flat if it was left without being started for a few days.

I finally decided to remove the battery from it's metal case & wet it down with a hose and sprinkled baking soda all over the frame. I was really surprised to see it foam up like it did because there wasn't any corrosion on the battery case.

I also wet the entire battery with the hose, and sprinkled baking soda on the top & sides of the battery...again the baking soda & water foamed up. After cleaning both the battery box & battery as described & rinsing with fresh water, my "battery leakage" problems disappeared. I would be careful not to let any of this solution get inside the batttery if at all possible.

I hope your problem is something this simple.

Good luck!
Jon

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( When I try to started the engine, it barely cranks and seems like the battery is dead. I also tried it with the fully charged tractor battery and got the same results. )</font>

Are you using the compression release? If the engine spins just as slow, you may have a problem other than electrical. And have you checked to make sure the hydraulic quick disconnect fittings just aft of the pump are properly seated? If the hydraulic fluid cannot circulate, pump resistance can cause these symptoms. What color exhaust when it tries to start ?

//greg//