Jinma 284 Fuse Box Layout

[DoctorZoidberg]

Hello again!

I have been trying to get some of the electrical things working again on my tractor and step #1 for me was to check all the fuses. Well, they all look good but when I started looking into the fuse box layout it appears the guy before me may have screwed up some of the fuses. Does anyone happen to know exactly what the layout is supposed to be? According to the only pictures I can find online it looks like not only am I missing fuses but also may have some in the wrong place!

The tractor has been starting fine (until yesterday at least), electrical panel seems to work OK and the headlights even come on. Electrically the only things that didn't seem to be working are the rear work light and the flashers.

I went to start the tractor yesterday, turned the key and the panel turned on fine. I turn the key to the start position and absolutely nothing happens, starter doesn't even tick. I would like to get my fuse box straightened out before digging in much further, including replacing ALL the fuses to be sure they are all good. After the fuses are good I plan on trying to use the screwdriver trick to try to start the tractor to see if I can narrow down where to continue looking.

Here is a picture of what my panel looks like currently, which is exactly as it was when I got it (used).



Thanks in advance!

 

[erj]

Here are some pictures and drawings of my Jinma 284 – perhaps they will help.
Here is the fuse box front:

Here are the fuse box wires:

Here is back of fuse box ‘flipped over’:

In case you need to get into the Connector:

Finally, here is a description of the wires/numbers on my tractor:

I am hoping that RonMar will see your post. He has an excellent schematic drawing of the Jinma wiring.

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

Thanks for the information, it was very helpful! I went to the auto store and replaced all the fuses this morning, didn't have too much time to check out to see if rear light or anything is working now, or if I need a new bulb.

Couple of other questions, it looks like I am missing the horn relay and one of the pins on the flasher relay is quite loose so I am guessing it is bad. Are there any local places that may have this relay? Are there any relays I can pick up at like a NAPA or John Deere dealer will fit and work correctly or am I pretty much going to have to order those online?

I also tried to start the tractor again with the key and no luck, but it starts right up when I short the starter so I am assuming it is either the switch on the clutch or the key switch itself. Haven't gotten a meter out yet to test those yet. If it is the key switch itself I have read a lot of information about a Ford switch I can use but also some other marine switches. For those who have replaced the switches which did you use and where did you get it from?

Thanks again!

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

Just to follow up on the switch question, I have seen a lot of the threads on here about the switches but I don't seem to be able to find any suppliers that have the Cole-Hersee switch available. My initial thoughts are to go with the Ford switch but I would like to have one a bit more weather resistant and I like the option of being able to use the glow plugs while cranking with the marine "push to choke" switch.

I found this other manufacturer, would this switch work? Anyone have experience with it or other types of marine switches?

Amazon.com: Sierra International MP41000 Push To Choke Marine Ignition Switch: Automotive

Also, I saw a lot of mention of relays being added when changing switches, is this necessary and if so is it only needed for the marine switch, the ford switch or do both switches require one? How would I go about adding one?

Thanks!

 

[erj]

I would not be in a rush to replace the switch. There are several other possibilities.
Do you have a multimeter? First thing that I would do is to check the amount of current that you are getting to the Solenoid with the wire that comes from the switch (actually through the Starter Interrupt Switch) when in the Start position.

 

[RonMar]

Here is a link to the Jinma schematic Erj mentioned.

If it does turn out to be the ignition switch, I think you would be more than satisfied with the ford switch. What the failure to start usually winds up being is either the clutch safety swith is bad or the wiring for the start circuit that runs under the floorboards has been damaged doing what tractors do...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...cal-schematic-2005-a.html?highlight=schematic

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

Ron, thanks for posting that! I have several electrical things to get working (rear work light, flashers, etc) and that will definitely come in handy.

As for the ignition switch, after testing everything I was quite happy to discover the clutch switch was fine and the switch was actually fine too just one wire connection was a little loose. When I removed the switch from the housing I could hear it spark every time I would move the wires, so I grabbed the screw driver and tightened it down again and it started right up!

I ordered new relays for the horn and flasher as well as some new bulbs for various lights. Fingers crossed when those come all should be well!

Thanks again for your guys help!

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

Hello again!

Wasn't sure whether to revive this thread or start a new one.

So things were working well for a few weeks but then the main 30A fuse started to blow whenever I tried to start the tractor. It starts to blow as soon as I turn the key to the pre-heat glow plug position, not even the starting position. What is interesting is that it blows the main plug with or without the fuse for the glow plug in the fuse box.

I found the switch for the Ford cheap enough online that I decided to just order one since the factory one is pretty beat up and I only had one key for it, figured it wouldn't hurt to try to switch that out before chasing down all the wires. So the new switch came today and I wired it up the same way the factory switch was wired which I THINK is how the diagrams I found in another thread have it listed. One mistake I initially made was attaching the wires to post 4 instead of post 5 and interestingly it started right up but it started on a key position that was not the spring loaded temporary position. It was a position that the key would stay in so it would stay cranking the starter motor until the switch it turned back to the left one position.

Once I saw that I noticed I used post 4 instead of 5 so I swapped the wires to post 5 and went to start it back up and sure enough the fuse blew immediately just like before! So I am assuming there is some wiring or something shorting out somewhere, any advice on where I might start looking? Everything else electrically seems to work as its supposed to, lights, flashers, work light, etc. Also, on all of the diagrams I see it lists only one wire going to each post but my tractor seems to have a couple of wires going to a few of the posts, not sure if that is normal or not?

I will try to get some pictures of it tomorrow morning if that helps.

Thanks again!

 

[mrmikey]

I replaced the switch on mine with a regular automotive ignition switch, an IH truck I believe and used a relay operated of a pushbutton for the glow plugs

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

So I tried to take some pictures and hopefully these came out alright, kind of tough angle to get a decent picture. So the wires under the dash area are a bit of a mess and the labels don't seem to make a lot of sense, not sure how this thing got wired. I have wires with duplicate numbers on them (at least 2 wires with #4) wires that seem to be a different color than what is listed in the table above, etc. So I guess first question is, are there supposed to be posts with multiple wires going to it? Post 2 has 3 wires going to it, with 2 of the wires soldered to a single ring connector. Posts 1 and 5 also seems to have 2 wires going to each with the same connector setup.

It looks like for post 1 the #4 (purple) and an unmarked green wire are connected. The purple should be going to the alternator I believe but I have no idea where the green wire is going to.

For post 2, my theory at the moment is that the green wire listed as #4 is actually wire #14 (I am guessing the 1 fell off) which would mean that wires #6 and #14 are connected to post 2. According to the table above those should be going to the horn fuse, the front lamp fuse and the headlight toggle switch. I believe the 3rd brown wire does connect to the headlight toggle switch.

For post 3 there is a thick red unlabeled wire which I am not sure where it goes to, it is definitely heavier than the other wires though.

Post 5 seems to have an orange-ish wire (perhaps faded red?) labelled 7 and a pink wire which is I believe labelled 10. Which in theory go to the clutch safety switch and possibly the regulator fuse?

Does this setup seem similar to what you guys have or do I more wires connected than are supposed to be?









Thanks!