Jinma 284 no electical

[sunshine]

My Jinma 284 (2007) lost all it's electrical functions. No lights, no tack or gages, no response from the ignition switch. I can start it by jumping the starter poles. Does this sound like a bad ignition switch or something else? I checked all the grounds and the battery is full charged. If anybody has any ideas please reply.

 

[grsthegreat]

im not sure about the jimna, but both my old JD and my new Kioti have a 60 amp main fuse right next to the starter. its the main fuse. if it goes, nothing works.

Not sure if jumping the solenoid would bypass this function or not.

 

[sunshine]

Thanks for the reply. This all started when my daughter barrowed the tractor. So I won't be able to check for that fuse until I get to the daughters place, 70miles away. I will have her look tho.

 

[greg_g]

The Jinma has a 30A system fuse, it's usually a green one at one end of the fuse panel. Jumping at the starter will in fact bypass it. But understand that without a good system fuse, the glow plugs don't work. So even though you can get it to turn over that way, it still might not actually start and run.

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

I assume you mean key switch, there is no ignition system on these tractors, they are diesels.

I agree with Greg.

 

[g0rd0]

I have a 07 284 with the quachaing 1.5 ltr motor. The glow plugs in it where never conected to the electrical system, but, it does have a glow plug with a mister (the mister is conected to the fuel system) that is on the air intake manifold that gives enough of a preheat for the engene to go. If she needs to get the glow plugs to work prior to jumping the starter she can do that by conecting a wire from the pos side of the battery to the glowplug rail for 20 seconds then remove the wire and start. But with the temps been as high as they are this time of year she should not need glow plugs or the preheater to start the quachaing.

 

[g0rd0]

As for your electrical first check that your wireing harnesses are firmly connected, then see if your fuses are good there is a simple way to do that is to get a fuse tester (basicly a light bulb attached to a sharp steel rod with a wire and clip hanging from it) you can get one cheep at any automotive supply. Clip the wire to the fuse box frame turn on your ingnition and switches then tough the fuses with the pointy end if the light lights the fuse is good (you need to do both side of the fuse to be sure) Now that you have determand that all fuses are good unscrew the front of your ingnition switch remove it and turn it on to the run position, useing the same tester clip one end to the tractors frame (it is best to use your manual and look at the schematic for the switch it will tell you wich positions on the switch are what and clip the tester to the common ground post) and touch the pointy end to each of the contacts on the back of the switch if there is no light anywere then your switch is shot

 

[RonMar]

As mentioned, power flows from the battery thru a main fuse to the key switch. From there, it flows back to the fuse panel to be distributed thru the various fuses to the remaining circuits. The start circuit goes from the key switch thru the clutch switch and on to the starter solenoid. Of course the ground return path to the battery - terminal is thru the frame. No complete path from + to - on the battery means no current flow, so don't forget to check the battery ground to the chassis(could be as simple as a bad ground)...

Here is a diagram I drew from my 284's wiring, as the one in the manual was way out of date. It is incomplete(no gauge wiring) but it should have what you need to troubleshoot a power failure. The numbers on the wires are the number labels that were attached to the wires on my harness.

Boy I really need to finish this drawing someday to include the gauge cluster and sensor wiring. Perhaps i will get my chance, as my Tach quit yesterday while brushhogging the back yard...

Good Luck

 

[TSMART]

Just a caution in case theres more out there like me. When jumping starter, please make sure you are in neutral first. Ask me how I know.......very scary.

 

[sunshine]

Thank you all for the replies.
Ron I copied your diagram and I think it will be a great help. Wednesday I will go over to the daughters and recover the tractor, bring it home where I have tools and getter done. Again thanks to you all and I will let you know what turns out.
Dave

Rosalia, Wa.

 

[SPIKER]

Please note running the tractor with the key/power off will not charge the battery so it will slowly die each time you jump it.

also note that the jumping would not work if there was a + or - issue at the battery.

like other said main fuse is the first place I would look

Mark

 

[sunshine]

Thanks again for all the helpful replies. I went over to the daughters with test light, multimeter. jumpers and half my garage of tools. Guess what? First check as directed was the main fuse. Bingo, Replaced with new one and everything working as suppose to. I'm guessing the son-in-law didn't trouble shoot as well as he said. One note , the blown fuse was a 40 amp instead of a 30 amp as the fuse box indicated. I believe the original owner who I purchased the tractor from probably had the same issue and upped the fuse amp. to fix the blown fuse problem instead of looking for the real problem. Anyway the tractor is home and running great.

Thanks again
Dave in Rosalia

 

[RonMar]

Thanks again for all the helpful replies. I went over to the daughters with test light, multimeter. jumpers and half my garage of tools. Guess what? First check as directed was the main fuse. Bingo, Replaced with new one and everything working as suppose to. I'm guessing the son-in-law didn't trouble shoot as well as he said. One note , the blown fuse was a 40 amp instead of a 30 amp as the fuse box indicated. I believe the original owner who I purchased the tractor from probably had the same issue and upped the fuse amp. to fix the blown fuse problem instead of looking for the real problem. Anyway the tractor is home and running great.

Thanks again
Dave in Rosalia

Now you need to find the real problem... 30A fuses don't just blow. I would reccomend hand over handing the wire downstream from that fuse, untill it reaches the other fuses. IE: Thru the amp gauge, the key switch, and back to the fuse panel, and from the start switch thru the clutch switch and out to the starter solenoid. you are looking for places where wires may have contacted structure and rubbed thru the insulation. Or places, such as the key switch where the terminal lugs may have gotten loose and rotated enough to contact something they shouldn't. Since it dosn't need the power to run, it could have blown at any time while running, and not really been noticed by someone who dosn't watch the gauges...

Overfusing, Well that is just an excuse for a complete rewire. After the fire of course

Good luck