Jinma 304 Steering Set-Up

   / Jinma 304 Steering Set-Up #1  

Rich Waugh

Platinum Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
803
Location
US Virgin Islands
Tractor
Jinma JM304
A couple of days ago I was doing some brush hog work in the upper mango orchard and I noticed that my front end seemed a bit loose. That is, the steering was sloppy and that made me more than just a little bit nervous since I was where I had to do some side-hill traversing. Not a good place to have arbitrary steering, no! I decided to call it a day and look into the steering issue.

I brought the tractor back to the shop and lifted the front with the loader and checked out the steering components. The problem was obvious - the tie rod was bent (again) and the tie rod ends were sloppy enough to have almost 1/4" of play in each one. My knowledge of tractor front end geometry and components is somewhere near zero, so I called Ronald at RanchHand Supply to find out about getting new ball joints and to ask him if there was something I was doing wrong to cause the problem.

I was surprised to learn from Ronald that those tie rod ends were actually adjustable! I looked them over and, sure enough, I could see what to do and did it, snugging them right up to spec. Straightened the tie rod and dropped another tube inside it for reinforcement (no solid bar the right size on hand), and re-set the toe in to spec. Well, more or less to spec since it ain't easy to do by myself. Good enough for a rig that never sees anything but dirt and grass under its wheels, I 'm sure.

If you look at the tie rod ends you'll see that there is a round flat end opposite the tapered shaft that goes into the drag link/steering arm. That flat end is really a plug cap and has a slot running across it and a cotter pin in it. Pull the cotter pin out and use a big screwdriver to unscrew the plug. Inside you'll find first a spring and then a ball half-socket. You should also find a lot of grease, naturally. :)

I screwed the plug in against the spring until there was no room left to move it, and then backed it off as near as possible to a half turn, wherever the cotter would go back in. Pretty much like adjusting a wheel bearing on a car - tighten until too tight and then back off just a bit. Now my steering is very positive with no sloppy play in it.

Apparently those tie rod ends came from the factory set too loose and I didn't know enough to set them when I assembled the tractor initially. Having run them loose for 75 or 80 hours of fairly rough treatment did tear up the rubber seals pretty badly so I'll need to replace them before long, but for now they're good enough. I'll just pump them full of grease every time I use the tractor to keep shoving the dirt back out and hope for the best.

I'm passing this along in case anyone doesn't know about these adjustable tie rod ends and may have theirs sloppy like mine. Though I took mine off and pulled them apart for cleaning and examining for excessive wear, they can actually be adjusted without removing them. The tractor now has steering that is much more stable and might even stay that way for a good while. I felt much more confident finishing up the mowing with a tractor that steered exactly where I aimed it with no slop.

My sincere thanks to Ronald for helping out in his usual friendly way, and I hope this helps out someone else.

Rich Waugh
 
   / Jinma 304 Steering Set-Up
  • Thread Starter
#3  
You're welcome, 20 20.

Being a novice about these tractors I had no idea that tie rod ends could be adjusted like that. Never saw such a thing on any of the cars or trucks I worked on over the years, but it seems like a dandy idea. In this case, it made a huge difference in my steering stability.

Rich
 
   / Jinma 304 Steering Set-Up #4  
I'm a novice mechanic on these tractors and you told me about a needed fix on my JM354. I hope it'll improve my row cropping abilities. Thankyou bjr
 
   / Jinma 304 Steering Set-Up
  • Thread Starter
#5  
bjr,

If your front end is as loose as mine was, you'll be astounded at how much better it is once you snug up those tie rod ends. Before I did mine, I could move the steering wheel as much as ten degrees before it moved the wheels, and the wheels would "wander" with the terrain to some degree, and required constant corrections to maintain a straight track. Now, I can twitch the steering wheel and the wheels twitch immediately. I can steer a straight line and it goes where I tell it to.

One other thing you should check carefully is the toe-in on the front wheels. Since the camber is not adjustable, all the tracking adjustment is dependent on the toe-in. I set mine at 1/3" as near as i could get it by myself and it seems fine now.

As a side benefit, my steering wheel no longer continues to turn after the cylinder comes to the limits of its travel. I have no idea why this phenomenon occurred, but it did and I like it much better this way. The tractor is now very much more manageable and I'm not as tired after several hours of running it as I was when I had to fight the steering and wonder if something was about to fall off. (grin)

Rich
 
   / Jinma 304 Steering Set-Up #6  
Hello Rich,
Great find, My 304 has the exact problem you mention. Is it possible to post some pics of the wwork you did, Somehow, in my mind, I cannot picture how to make the adjustments.

Thanks,
Rick
 
   / Jinma 304 Steering Set-Up
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Rick,

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures when I was doing the work and I'm not going to pull one off and take it apart just to take pictures. Believe me, if you take one of your off the tractor and clean it thoroughly you'll easily be able to see the copper pin I refer to and the adjusting slot. Pull out the cotter pin, stick a big screwdriver in the slot the pin formerly rested in and unscrew the plug. Watch what comes out - you'll see first the plug (looks like the plug in a weather-tight electrical box only about 2" in diameter), then there's a spring like a short valve spring, and then the socket for the ball. There is no way to get these back in wrong if you pay attention when you take them out. However, you do not need to take the tie rod end apart to adjust it.

All you really need to do is pull the cotter, screw the plug in until it won't go any more and then back it out just enough to line up the slot with the two holes for the cotter pin. Put a new cotter pin in place and you're done.

I hope this clears it up for you. Go look at yours carefully and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Rich
 

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