Jinma 354 w/ ZL-30 FEL hydraulic trouble

[kyhillbilly40162]

I was trying to pull something with the front end loader bucket by putting a chain around it and working the bucket up and down. All of the sudden all the hydraulics quit working and the engine starts to pull down. Not sure what was going on I shut the tractor off. Noticing the pump was very hot.
So I let it cool and tried to start it again. The tractor started right up but acted like it was under a strain. A few seconds later the pump starts squalling so I shut it down again and let it cool.I decided to bypass the FEL. The tractor starts right up, runs normal and the pump never gets hot. So I come to conclusion that its in the control valve. After consulting with a friend that has general knowledge. we both thought in was in the relief valve. So I take it apart inspect and clean(nothing looked odd) so I put it back together. Start the tractor the loader moved at first but soon stopped and the tractor goes under a strain. Thinking that maybe I had the pressure set to high I back the knob off and try it again. This time everything is working so I head out of the barn when the tractor starts straining and I hear a pop. I got fluid pouring from the hydraulic pump. At wits end with this tractor.

 

[greg_g]

Classic symptom of a QD fitting that's either come apart, or has become completely obstructed. Since the problem went away when you disconnected the loader, suspect the loader QDs. The "pop" was likely the pump shaft breaking under the strain of pushing fluid through an obstructed/blocked circuit.

//greg//

 

[biggerten]

I agree with Greg about the quick-connects, the pump shaft can break as he says, or the pump can split it's casing, or other damage can happen. But I suspect you'll be purchasing a new pump. Along with better quick connects.

 

[Nuno]

i am sure, this was caused like Greg say by the QDs.
Similar issue has happen to my Jinma 244E.
First Pump has broken the Drive Shaft after 6Hrs

the i have used a CBN-E310 for a short time without Problems
and after receiving a new Warranty CBN-E316 from the Chines Dealer they runs for 3 min and ends with a "pop" and a burst Body.

 

[Affordable]

I too agree that it sounds like it may be a quick connect problem,reguardless it sounds like you are going to need a hydraulic pump,we have the pump and quick connect sets if we can help you

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Diamondpilot]

Good advise given. I agree 100% that the QC were the problem. I got rid of mine all together and put in 1/2" swivel fittings.

Chris

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

#1. I decided to bypass the FEL. The tractor starts right up, runs normal and the pump never gets hot. So I come to conclusion that its in the control valve.

#2. This time everything is working so I head out of the barn when the tractor starts straining and I hear a pop. I got fluid pouring from the hydraulic pump. At wits end with this tractor.

Here is my guess.


#1. It very well could be the control valve. Don't know which China valve you have? I have seen some VERY loose tolerances in the machine work that sets the pump up for a dead head. The quick connects need to be up-graded and be matched if not already done. The factory quick connects have a history of causing dead heading and or restricting flow sometime.


#2. If you were operating the loader when that happen ????....... I would bet valve. The pump housing cracked (pop)when the pump dead headed..... fluid had no where to go.



Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[Rich Waugh]

Having read far too many horror stories similar to yours, I decided that my crappy OEM loader valve had to go. I bit the bullet and replaced it with one of Ronald's (RanchHand Supply) terrific valves and at the same time replaced the potentially disastrous OEM QD's with decent ones, also from Ronald. While not cheap, it seemed a wise move and I've certainly been delighted with the results. The valve kit went on in under two hours, including the QDs, and works so much better there is no comparison. With the new valve and Qds, the loader is now very manageable and works just fine for me.

The best part is that I probably won't ever have to worry about popping my hydraulic pump.

Rich

 

[3RRL]

Ditto for what Rich just said.
I did the very same thing right after I got Loretta's 284 Jinma when it was brand new.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Well, it was your recommendation that pushed me over the edge, Rob.

I had, when the tractor was new, replaced the dangerous OEM QDs with pipe couplings, but I thought that someday I might actually want to lose the loader for some task or another, so I put in the high quality QDs from Ronald. The cost for that was minimal and gives me the option without a bunch of shade-tree plumbing work. Having done it pretty much guarantees I'll never take the loader off, of course.

Rich