Jinma 354 with 4 cylinder Yangdong 485 engine - How to remove timing gear case?

[Tim Berframe]

A few weeks ago I posted about problems with my Jinma 354 with 485 engine. I had partially disassembled it and ordered parts. Got parts and tried to remove the old timing case. I have removed radiator, hydraulic pump, injection pump, and many other assorted parts to get room to work. It appears now that some major disassembly is involved. I shut the tractor down where it broke and didn't remove the FEL because the motor was spewing oil at an alarming rate. Now its in my way and I have to remove it without the aid of hydraulics.

Please tell me if I am viewing this wrong:

The problem is that the case must be pulled towards the front to clear guide pins and the crank shaft. There is a solid chunky piece of cast iron in front of it that the front axle and FEL mount onto. It would appear that I have to remove the FEL and then move the front axle forward. To do this, I will have to remove the drive shaft so that I can block up the weight of the tractor on the oil pan (it is a solid cast iron one piece deal). I will then disconnect the FEL frame. I then disconnect the front end cast iron frame leaving the front axle attached to it. While somehow blocking it up so that it remains level, I will roll the axle forward about six inches giving me the clearance I need at the front of motor.

Opinions? Advice?

 

[Tim Berframe]

A few weeks ago I posted about problems with my Jinma 354 with 485 engine. I had partially disassembled it and ordered parts. Got parts and tried to remove the old timing case. I have removed radiator, hydraulic pump, injection pump, and many other assorted parts to get room to work. It appears now that some major disassembly is involved. I shut the tractor down where it broke and didn't remove the FEL because the motor was spewing oil at an alarming rate. Now its in my way and I have to remove it without the aid of hydraulics.

Please tell me if I am viewing this wrong:

The problem is that the case must be pulled towards the front to clear guide pins and the crank shaft. There is a solid chunky piece of cast iron in front of it that the front axle and FEL mount onto. It would appear that I have to remove the FEL and then move the front axle forward. To do this, I will have to remove the drive shaft so that I can block up the weight of the tractor on the oil pan (it is a solid cast iron one piece deal). I will then disconnect the FEL frame. I then disconnect the front end cast iron frame leaving the front axle attached to it. While somehow blocking it up so that it remains level, I will roll the axle forward about six inches giving me the clearance I need at the front of motor.

Opinions? Advice?

The cast piece in my way is called the axle bracket. Anyone care to comment if I am on the right track?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I have that same tractor with the same engine. I haven't removed the timing cover but I have done the oil pump and you have to disconnect the front axle from the engine to do that. As I recall it's about four bolts and you have to disconnect the steering hoses. The steering hoses take a 27mm box wrench and you don't have to drain the hydraulics, about a cup of fluid comes out. As long as the engine is supported and the rear wheels are chocked it's not a big deal.

To disconnect the front driveshaft: At one end there are three bolts. With those three bolts removed you can compress the shaft enough for it to come free. Inside each end are three balls that will drop out as you remove the end. Hold a shop towel under the end as you pull it free to catch the balls. Wrap the balls in a shop towel and set the whole thing aside.

Reassembly of the front driveshaft is easier if you use grease as glue to hold the balls in place.