Chipper Jinma Chipper Self Destruct

Smalljobs · May 26, 2020

New but minor problem: After several hours of chipping, the main flywheel shaft drifted toward the tractor and began rubbing and clanging on the housing. Examination showed the pillow blocks shifted and allowed the main shaft to drift toward the tractor. I removed the cover near the belt drive and also removed the chute...yep, it moved and now not parallel. In addition, it seems the anvil clearance is too small. I welded up a simple anvil/knife gauge to make the clearance issue a lot simpler. I keep dropping the feeler gage and took some .062" flat stock and welded up a crude gauge to be used in the next few days. At the same time I plan to weld up a jacking system, similar to the feed drive gear box adjustment. This will stop the pillow blocks from shifting. If necessary, I will add contact points for the pillow block set screws to stop any movement. For now, it seems the blocks alone moved and shaft/pillow block arrangement did not move.

5030 · May 26, 2020

Take an impact wrench to them and reef on them. Use one with balls like an IR Thundergun (1500 pounds feet) torque. They won't move after that.

I always used an old credit card for a feeler gauge. I heated the card and folded it at 90 degrees so I wouldn't drop it into the abyss...:laughing:

Smalljobs · May 26, 2020

Thanks. I like the credit card official gage, especially the 90 degree fold!

5030 · May 27, 2020

Smalljobs said:
Thanks. I like the credit card official gage, especially the 90 degree fold!

I have an almost full box of cutter knife hold down bolts (countersunk heads with allen key broached in recess) and the elastic stop nuts for them as well if anyone needs any. I bought full boxes at Fastenal and then sold the chipper not long after... I would suggest renewing them with every knife and anvil change.

Smalljobs · May 27, 2020

Thank you. I too have a collection of fasteners. When I imported two chippers and a BH, I bought extra knives, anvils, knife fasteners, spare alternator, spare starter, spare hydraulic pumps, and spare seals for every cylinder. During this recent flywheel replacement, I ended up with a box of high strength Allen flat head screws from McMaster-Carr.

grsthegreat · Jun 14, 2020

I was chipping for about 1-1/2 hours today...after i broke down yesterday and installed new knives and anvil.... and unit started to shudder and shreak something fierce. Too it back to shop and removed discharge shout. I saw that the flywheel was striking shroud. Not good. Paint was baking off.

Opened up main belt shroud and saw brass bushings had fallen out of main pillow block bearing. Bolts were loose. I know i re-torqued those last march. Weird. I replaced bushings and realign main knife rotor assembly. I watched it spin thri full revolution thru discharge chute. Looked good.

Re-torqued EVERYTHING. Adjusted belts, regreased.

Tested and it ran like new again. Phew. Load off of my mind

I think the old girl knew i was thinking about upgrading to a hydraulic feed woodmaxx or similar unit.

This unit was purchased new in 2006.... works great. Maybe ill just keep it and skip on newer unit. I like simple.

oosik · Jun 14, 2020

I read your post #36, grsthegreat. Got me to thinking. I've never checked the pillow block bolts on the Wally. After six years of use - still OK. But a guy thinks he has checked everything and at the required frequency. I pulled one bolt - all the way out. Wallenstein uses some form of LocTite on these bolts.

Smalljobs · Jun 14, 2020

I made a simple gauge to set the clearance. It was always a PITA to check with feeler gauges so I had some stock around .070" and made this gauge, complete with a removable handle. It worked great.

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That's the good news. I put it all back together and began chipping with some small branches. Pretty soon the flywheel was rubbing against the housing again. I traced it back to the pillow blocks moving. I have a full set of 1/2" drive sockets, breaker bars, torque wrenches, etc. so I thought all would be OK.

So, I fabricated some angle iron and jacking screws and welding them in place to be make certain there could be no movement of the pillow blocks. After a few minutes of running, the problem repeated itself. The flywheel, once again, was rubbing on the tractor side of the housing. Inspection showed the upper shaft had moved toward the tractor. After all, it's only held in place by small set screws.

To solve that, I bought new and longer setscrews from McMaster-Carr plus a tap, tap drill, and bottoming tap to fully lock the shaft and pillow blocks together.

I have run out of time and patience (for now) after putting way too much time and $ into this. For another project it's imperative I put on the frame mounted BH and put the chipper aside.

The chipper needs more time and effort to fix but not rocket science...Solutions range from deep setscrews to mate bearings with shaft, to fender washer spacers to open up gaps in housing, to removing the flywheel and having 3/32" removed from back and rebalancing.

I'm open to any reasonable offer in Central Massachusetts. Am leaning to importing one or more new ones. Send PM if interested in buying this one cheap or participating in an import buy.

grsthegreat · Jun 15, 2020

Weird. I usually tighten everything at beginning of each chipping season. I have never had any issues like the loose pillow block until today. 14 years of use,first time issue. Not sure why your keeps loosening up