Mowing jinma finish mower question.

[Brad_Blazer]

Nope, I believe what you're describing is simply the steering controller, located at the bottom of the steering wheel column. Based upon input from the steering wheel, it controls the direction of flow to/from the steering cylinder. Turn the steering wheel to the right > fluid flows TO the cylinder via one line/returns via the other > cylinder extends > the tires move to the right in proportion to the input. Turn the steering wheel in the other direction > flow in those two lines is reversed > cylinder retracts > tires reverse direction in proportion to the input.

Anyway - to address your question - yes. When considering whether the steering cylinder or the steering controller is bypassing, the odds definitely favor the cylinder. Besides, it's a helluva lot easier to put a seal kit in a cylinder, than it is to remove and troubleshoot the controller.

//greg//

Your description of the "steering controller" named "steering gear" in my parts book does not contradict mine other than declaring that it is guaranteed to maintain cylinder position proportional to steering wheel position unless it is malfunctioning. I would postulate that some indexing error is normal and heavier oil mitigates it. You are the only person I know of to claim their all hydraulic steering stays indexed.

The steering cylinder is a simple hydraulic cylinder with conventional wipes. It is very hard to believe that more than 9/10 of those cylinders "bypass" aka leak down at a rate of inches per minute under moderate pressure, especially when none of them leak externally. Sure it is only a half day and $20 for the average Joe to put a seal kit in the cylinder. It only takes 15 minutes to raise the front, plug the lines, and verify that the cylinder doesn't bypass if you apply a steering torque to the front wheels. Personally, I'll leave mine alone and accept the behavior that most of us observe as normal.

Brad

 

[greg_g]

You are the only person I know of to claim their all hydraulic steering stays indexed.

Ummm, and I "claimed" this - where ? I believe you're reading stuff into this that ain't actually there.

The simple fact is, that it's not uncommon for Chinese steering cylinders to bypass as their seals wear. If this weren't true, dealers wouldn't waste inventory money by stocking unneeded cylinder repair kits. Ask the dealers how many steering controller repair kits they keep on the shelf.

//greg//

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I think you meant to type either AW46 or AW68, and they're both in 20W territory. If you want 30W, you have to move up to AW100.

But bypassing never gets better, only worse. So even if it's not currently problematic, it is a definite indicator that a repair will eventually be required. Some folks wait till they have to fix failures. Me, I prefer preventative maintenance to avoid failures. I had the same thing happen to me on a JM254 some years ago, but I got rid of the problem when I got rid of the tractor. If it was happening on one of my current tractors, I'd put in the seal kit now. https://affordabletractorsalesco.com/cart/sub_catalog_gallery.php?cid=1244&catid=106&picid=1398&category=Parts%20Center&sub_category=Hydraulics&scid=100


//greg//

TSMART's original symptom was a change in the index of his steering wheel (position of the suicide knob) from one day to the next with no other functional problems. You made a pretty strong implication that your tractors do not do that.

 

[greg_g]

TSMART's original symptom was a change in the index of his steering wheel (position of the suicide knob) from one day to the next with no other functional problems. You made a pretty strong implication that your tractors do not do that.

Note that you quoted a reply I made about another steering issue - specifically one described by 3RRL. Different tractor, different steering system. I made a pretty strong indication that my KM454 isn't doing (some of) the same thing(s) as is his KM554.

In Robs case, I said my own COI was to take the pump apart for a looksee - and that he might consider the same thing PLUS a cylinder repair kit (if available). In TSMARTs case - different steering configuration - my recommendation was simply to try a cylinder repair kit before tearing into anything else.

Finish mower topic has kinda spun outa control here.........

//greg//

 

[Brad_Blazer]

 

[TSMART]

Thanks for the input everyone. Sorry, it was I who went off topic with a follow up question to my original post about the finish mower. But, I have learned alot too! Will keep my eye on it.

Let's suppose that I am on the road in 3HI just to get from place to place...is it possible that I could lose control of steering?? I have two places I use my tractor frequently, two miles apart, so I am frequently on asphalt going top speed. If that happened while I was going 14 MPH (3HI top speed) I could possibly flip the tractor....so far, to my knowledge I have never lost control of steering. Hate to find out the hard way...

 

[TSMART]

I finally changed the oil in the finish mower crankcase. It only had a top fill (screw out) and a side window (which also screwed out)...but after I removed the side window, there the reseroir was still half full which I could not get out. I could find no other plug on the bottom. So I got out my chain, attatched it to the side of the mower, used the bucket to raise the mower to vertical to enable all the used oil to spill out the window opening. I got the job done, but it sure seems dumb that there seemed to be no drain plug.

What came out of there looked like a thick cafe latte. Glad I did it.

 

[greg_g]

Let's suppose that I am on the road in 3HI just to get from place to place...is it possible that I could lose control of steering??

Well, when you lose power steering on this type system, the steering wheel essentially won't turn. As long as your front wheels are still pointed straight ahead, they won't likely move (much) while you're going from 14 to zero. Having said that, you'd have to really really unlucky to lose power steering in a 14mph turn.

What you drained outa that mower transmisison was emulsion. That's what happens when water and gear oil is churned up by rapidly moving parts. The most common way water gets in is simple condensation; the inside of the case sweats. The easiest remedy, is a vented fill cap. It's definitely $4 bucks well spent not to have to tip over the mower every year, just to drain out the "wet" gear oil.

//greg//