SPIKER
Elite Member
Hi Guys:
Well I took some time this week to do some Maintenance on the JM284 after 12 years the old boy needed it.
I neglected to take my Before Photos but mid way thru I started & put onto PB so here goes.
As my other post below said the China made Battery finally shorted a cell after 12 years of HARD use. That meant I need to fix or replace it. I had a couple junk small batteries setting around so traded one of those in and bought a Duracell Group 27 battery. It had Top Posts so I had to remove and replace the bolt style ends on my 2/0 battery cables (I discarded the factory 4-gauge ones when I assembled it back in 2002.) I had a few of these solder on ends laying around from J&N Auto they contain the solder and flux, all you need is the propane torch and cable. WAY better than the cheap clamp or crimp type battery connectors!
Anyhow first thing I had to do was get it all apart, pulled the head lights, wiring and air cleaner out of the way. Got out the OLD battery to see the lower half of my radiator (only maybe 3/4" between battery & radiator) was 75% clogged shut reason it got too warm anytime I used it in warm temps.
SO I decided to pull it all apart and fix the battery box issues, clean radiator and remove the rust etc.
(NOTE: Click on the thumbnail photos to see them full size.)
With the old battery box the angle iron that mounts it to the tractor was cut off the bottom and moved rear ward (moving battery forward) about 1". Prior to cutting them off they were flush to the back of the battery box.
back side shown with the angles moved rear wards.
=====
After first test fit the small angle that holds battery down needed modified some too, I cut off ~1" & drilled new hole. The Wing Nut hold down bolts also had to be bent up about 15degrees (done by hand using deep well socket slipped over the end.)
====
Also had (prior to painting test fitted the battery box) and seen I had to cut the corners off (new battery is smaller anyways.) Angles were added to the bottom of the battery box to keep the battery centered as well & can be seen in several of the photos.
Here is the finished product there is now a LOT more air flow around and in behind the battery vs factory.
Detail of new distance between the battery box and rad.
I have yet to finish this all up but am taking time to get the post started. I drained Radiator and pulled it out completely and cleaned it inside and out. Straightened out some fins in it and had a heck of a time with the shroud... I installed it towards the rear slightly farther but will move it back forward after seeing how far inside the shroud the fan is. It needs to have the fan exposed some behind the shroud it is not slightly recessed inside the radiator shroud. New coolant and all will be done this week in preparing for some heavy summer use!
This next project is going to be installing my dual 24" Culvert setup to replace my OLD bridge that is failing.
the trailer and the culverts will end up in Projects Forum soon stay tuned, I'll put in some links in this thread for those...
Mark
Well I took some time this week to do some Maintenance on the JM284 after 12 years the old boy needed it.
I neglected to take my Before Photos but mid way thru I started & put onto PB so here goes.
As my other post below said the China made Battery finally shorted a cell after 12 years of HARD use. That meant I need to fix or replace it. I had a couple junk small batteries setting around so traded one of those in and bought a Duracell Group 27 battery. It had Top Posts so I had to remove and replace the bolt style ends on my 2/0 battery cables (I discarded the factory 4-gauge ones when I assembled it back in 2002.) I had a few of these solder on ends laying around from J&N Auto they contain the solder and flux, all you need is the propane torch and cable. WAY better than the cheap clamp or crimp type battery connectors!
Anyhow first thing I had to do was get it all apart, pulled the head lights, wiring and air cleaner out of the way. Got out the OLD battery to see the lower half of my radiator (only maybe 3/4" between battery & radiator) was 75% clogged shut reason it got too warm anytime I used it in warm temps.
SO I decided to pull it all apart and fix the battery box issues, clean radiator and remove the rust etc.
(NOTE: Click on the thumbnail photos to see them full size.)
With the old battery box the angle iron that mounts it to the tractor was cut off the bottom and moved rear ward (moving battery forward) about 1". Prior to cutting them off they were flush to the back of the battery box.
back side shown with the angles moved rear wards.
=====
After first test fit the small angle that holds battery down needed modified some too, I cut off ~1" & drilled new hole. The Wing Nut hold down bolts also had to be bent up about 15degrees (done by hand using deep well socket slipped over the end.)
====
Also had (prior to painting test fitted the battery box) and seen I had to cut the corners off (new battery is smaller anyways.) Angles were added to the bottom of the battery box to keep the battery centered as well & can be seen in several of the photos.
Here is the finished product there is now a LOT more air flow around and in behind the battery vs factory.
Detail of new distance between the battery box and rad.
I have yet to finish this all up but am taking time to get the post started. I drained Radiator and pulled it out completely and cleaned it inside and out. Straightened out some fins in it and had a heck of a time with the shroud... I installed it towards the rear slightly farther but will move it back forward after seeing how far inside the shroud the fan is. It needs to have the fan exposed some behind the shroud it is not slightly recessed inside the radiator shroud. New coolant and all will be done this week in preparing for some heavy summer use!
This next project is going to be installing my dual 24" Culvert setup to replace my OLD bridge that is failing.
the trailer and the culverts will end up in Projects Forum soon stay tuned, I'll put in some links in this thread for those...
Mark
BOTH sides were fixed. Going to take a GOOD look at the rear mounts as well as the Back Hoe mounts under it. I NEED to break it down and fix the clutch yet as I'm pretty sure one of the Main Cone springs probably split years ago as it happened over night from a firm to soft peddle. 