JM354 Rear Wheel Center Disc

[bjr]

I had to do some tire/wheel swapping to do some row crop work. I hadn't ever moved or change tires on this tractor since I put together new about 6yrs ago. I took off the weights and wheel centers so I could extend the wheel tread (I think that what the manual calls it). Upon assembly I found out the outer edges of the center discs don't contact the wheels and only bolt thru the loop is the connecting point. My point is, theres no centering the wheel to disc with that setup. My old Ford early 4 cylinder diesel 4000, the outer edges or tip of the disc wedge into the wheel to center things. For now I'm leaving the weights off cause I may have change things back. I'm hoping I don't get some kinda outta balanced bucking bull ride by swapping the tires around. Oh well, guess I'll put my leather gloves on, pull the seat belt up a little tighter, pull my hat down harder, raise one hand an' nod and see what happens. Any one else done much wheel spacing with the 354 Jinma's and how was your results. bjr

 

[greg_g]

I've not personally viewed the 300 series rear setup. So I'll respond based upon what I know about the 200 series. There are four configurations available determined the position of the center spokes (concave/convex) and the direction of the rim (inside/outside).

• Narrow; spoke disc convex side out, rim attached inside spoke
• wider; spoke concave, rim outside spoke
• wider yet: spoke convex side out, rim attached inside
• widest: spoke concave, rim outside.

Note: when when moving rim from inside to outside, it must be mounted on the opposite side of the tractor to keep the tire lugs facing in the right direction. Much easier than flipping the tire on the rim.

Also - your manual may have the actual rear track widths for the various combinations. Good idea to convert the millimeters to inches, and figure which combo you want - before you start experimenting.

//greg//

 

[biggerten]

I did the very same thing to my 354 to get a wider stance to gain clearance between the tire and fender for chains, no issues. Greg's described it pretty good.

I did have those very same nuts/bolts come loose on one wheel a year or so back. I have loctite on them now and keep a close watch on them. Could have lost a tire.

While I think it's always OK to think about the unintended consequences of one's actions, I don't think you need to worry about this one too much.

But the tractor never did have a silky smooth ride at speed.

Good luck.

 

[attaboy]

I've not personally viewed the 300 series rear setup. So I'll respond based upon what I know about the 200 series. There are four configurations available determined the position of the center spokes (concave/convex) and the direction of the rim (inside/outside).

• Narrow; spoke disc convex side out, rim attached inside spoke
• wider; spoke concave, rim outside spoke
• wider yet: spoke convex side out, rim attached inside
• widest: spoke concave, rim outside.

Note: when when moving rim from inside to outside, it must be mounted on the opposite side of the tractor to keep the tire lugs facing in the right direction. Much easier than flipping the tire on the rim.

Also - your manual may have the actual rear track widths for the various combinations. Good idea to convert the millimeters to inches, and figure which combo you want - before you start experimenting.

//greg//

For the 300 series, I show five track widths. Converted from mm's .. 39.37", 43.3", 47.24", 51.18", and 55.11". Mine are maxed out to 55.11", for better stability in the hills, and to accommodate the wheel weights internally.

The wheel weights (2 x 40 kg on each side) are a heck of alot easier to mount, with the wheel horizontal, and are more easily centered. For internal mounting, it is moot .. ya gotta mount them first, before you mount the wheel

 

[Diamondpilot]

When I widened my 254/284 I put the weights on the inside. I would like to have another set to put on the outside but anyway on the inside works just fine.

Chris