John Deere 110

   / John Deere 110
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#21  
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I was using my loader this morning and noticed it settling big time. It had a half load of gravel in, I had to keep picking it up. Don't like that. Have you had any troubles since getting your cylinders fixed? How did that go, John Deere replace both lift cylinders? I'll have to bring that to the dealer's attention monday a. Bushy
 
   / John Deere 110 #22  
Was speaking with a Deere dealer yesterday about a what he thought about possible problems with leakdown on a top and tilt. He said the problem usually wasn't in the cylinders, but rather with the values. He said the larger tractors had higher precision valves and therefore didn't have leakdown problems like the CUTs.

Wouldn't have believed that except that on a post somewhere else on this site, the leakdown specs that are listed in a post are smaller with every step up in tractor.
 
   / John Deere 110 #23  
Bushy,
How did you make out at the dealer??That sounds exactly like what mine was doin',get it taken care of as soon as you can,cause if it's the same thing on yours that it was on mine,I'm sure it may be happening to others also.It can also cause some unsafe conditions while runnin' the machine,like if you went to swap attachments out front and your foot gets stuck under the bucket......not good.They only replaced one cylender on mine,the one that had rust in the barrel,the other one was fine.Hope it turns out okay,keep me posted.
 
   / John Deere 110 #24  
Hello Gentlemen,
I have read through a number of different threads on the 110s and 4710s and am now leaning towards the 110. I will be using it to help out with building my new home, and then to maintain the 15 acres with more clearing and mowing of the pastures. I like the e-hydro features of the 4710 for the mowing and the lower price, but am afraid of damaging the loader and bucket with heavy use in the beginning of the project as I have read of a number of people who have broken the loaders or hoes. So, from your experience with your new 110s, how suseptible do you think these will be do braking something from heavy use? Also, I read the thread on the 4710's 4-in-1 controls, could someone explain how the controls work on the 110s?
Thanks, Adam
 
   / John Deere 110 #25  
acbellnj,

How do you define "heavy" work? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I'm not sure if you read some of my posts in the 4n1 threads
since I was a bit late in responding but I just moved 176 tons
of ABC last week and I'll move another 32-64 tons this Friday.

I have something like a dozen large burnpiles around my
land some of which are as large as a small house. I have dug
up hundreds of stumps, most in the 4-6 inch range but dozens
in the 36+ inch size. Put them all in the burn piles. I have
cleared land for two driveways, two septic fields and two
house sites. Cleaned up, with much more to do, 3-4 acre
area that is all but clear cut as well as the decking area.

I use the MX6 about 10% of my tractor time. Maybe 6-8
times a year. Most of my tractor time is cleaning up, clearing,
or building/fixing driveways/roads.

I have a 4700, JD48, 460 FEL with 4n1, box blade and a MX6.

So far, knock on wood, I have not busted anything major.
/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I broke a bolt on the backhoe and bent the tail wheel
on the MX6. When I play bulldozer I work in A range 1st or
2nd gear. I think that keeps me from busting anything up.

Later,
Dan McCarty
 
   / John Deere 110 #26  
Thanks for the post Dan,

I sounds like the 4700 has held up very well for as much as you have listed, and excuse my ignorance as I'm a newbie to the tractor world, but what does "ABC" stand for and what would tons translate into in cubic yards of material moved?

As far as "heavy work", our area is known for dense clay soil with fairly large field stone in the upper depths and red shale down deeper. I have also read a number of posts about people digging and hitting rocks or when digging through large root systems that have caused such a force against the tractor as to snap, shear, or deform the hoe and subframe, and those who when back blading have ripped the bucket of the loader. Are these isolated cases as it sounds like you haven't experienced this or is what kind of ground you are working in make that big a difference? What is the soil composition like in NC?
 
   / John Deere 110 #27  
acbellnj,

My soil is either clay. Or it is clay sprinkled with rocks. Or it
is clay saturated with rocks. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Spends on where I am
working. I can be in clay, move 100 feet and be in the clay
saturated with rocks. The rocks are from small to huge
boulders six or so feet out of the ground.

Most of the stuff I have hit with the tractor have been the
small to maybe beach ball size. The worse thing a rock has
done is when I hit one with the box blade and the rock
wedged between the implement and my tires. The box blade
moved up violently and somehow managed to loosen the
nuts to the hoses on my hydraulic top link. I lost a couple
quarts of oil before I noticed and tightened things up. I'm
sure the nuts where loose before hand...

ABC is a mixture of rocks, maybe up to 2 inches in size with
lots of fines. The fines lock the stones into place and make
one heck of a driveway/road. If you watch road construction
and they are laying down gravel is most likely ABC or
something similar. There is another type called Crush and Run
which is close to ABC but I think it is slightly different. I have
a chart somewhere that talks about all of this stuff way past
my level of comprehension. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

After I roughly laid out the ABC I have had the dump trucks
running on the drive way. They BARELY make a track in this
stuff. Pretty amazing. I have gotten lucky in that its
rained in between my work days so that has help settle the
fines into the rock. I am also puting the ABC on top of
geotextile fabric which is helping as well.

As soon as my photo developer gets his PC fixed I'll post some
pictures of all of this in the Projects area.

As far as breaking the equipment. I wonder if people aren't
moving to fast? That is the only thing that I can think would
cause problems at least with my equipment. If I run into
something my tractor just stops but I'm moving very slowing.

The way the JD 48 backhoe fits onto the tractor is very
strong and secure. I don't think it is possible to break the
tractor with the hoe. I have use the hoe to lift the back
of the tractor, move over some distance, set back down,
and start digging. It did not seem to stress the equipment.
And it should not either. The JD equipment should be designed
so that one implement does not break the tractor. So far
that seems to be true. I have about 350 hours in 21 months.

Hope this helps,
Dan
 
   / John Deere 110 #28  
acbellnj,

I ran off to lunch and remembered that you asked for the
conversion to yards from tons. Somewhere I had in my
head that ABC was 3,000 pounds per yard. But it depends
on how wet it is as well. My father in law just retired from
the DOT as an inspector and said ABC can be 3,000-4,000
pounds per ton. DOT specs 3,000 pounds per ton and that
is what most quarry's in NC will provide. The amount of
coverage I'm getting seems to match my calcuations on how
much ABC I would need...

Later,
Dan
 
   / John Deere 110 #29  
<font color=blue>ABC can be 3,000-4,000
pounds per ton</font color=blue>

Hmm, this should be interesting....

<font color=blue>DOT specs 3,000 pounds per ton </font color=blue>

... at least it's consistent...

<font color=blue>I ran off to lunch </font color=blue>

... now I understand. I think you must have had my kind of lunch Dan /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif So which weighs more, a pound of ABC or a pound of feathers?

Sorry, couldn't resist /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / John Deere 110 #30  
Hmmm,

I have a couple of smart a... answers. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Well, my father in law did work for the state so the numbers
might be right! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Or how about I put, "DOT specs 3,000 pounds per ton."
as a test to see if people was a pay'n attention....

Or how about a OOOPPPPSSSSSS! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I'll let the TBN Denizens Decide..... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Later,
Dan McCarty
 
   / John Deere 110 #31  
Thanks Dan, I think I got the picture.

So how wide x deep x long is this driveway you are working on and how did you like the geo-fabric (also how expensive is the geo-fabric)?

Are you dragging the ABC around with the box blade, or using the loader to scoop and dump?
 
   / John Deere 110 #32  
acbellnj,

Easy answers first. I'm using the 4n1 in bucket mode as well
as in bull dozer mode to push the ABC into a thin layer. At
the end of the day I use the box blade to make it nice,
smooth and professional looking. I do use the box blade from
time to time when pushing down the pile but 95% of getting
the ABC spread is with the 4n1.

The first phase of the driveway is about 600 feet long. The
fabric is in a roll 12.5 feel wide and 360 feet long. There are
two kinds of fabric, woven and nonwoven. I'm using
nonwoven since its supposed to be more puncture resistent.
Other rolls are 13/14 feet wide and 300 long. Rolls seem to
cost $300. Mine was $295 so its costing me $.82 per linear
foot of driveway.

Where I have a straght line I figure the drive is 13-14 feet
wide but it depends. I put in an S curve and I'm making the
drive wider at those points. There is also a turning circle
I'm working on Friday and its going to be wider than 13 feet.
I'll have to double up on the fabric up there.

I'll post pictures next week I hope....

The fabric works. I certainly don't have a long term view on
the stuff but last Friday it was pouring down rain just prior
to me starting to work. The road and clay was very wet.
Just walking made a mess. I had parked my truck near the
driveway and was making a mess standing at the tailgate so
I dropped some ABC and spread it out so I would be out of
the mud. I parked my tractor in that spot maybe 5-6 times
during the day. That pretty much pushed the ABC into the
mud. The ABC on the fabric did not move. The front
part of the driveway has had a good 10 loads driven onto
it and the empty trucks driven off. The truck with a load are
50,000 to 54,000 pounds. The driveway looks nice and flat
the way the box blade left it. No ruts at all.

I'm out of here for today and likely won't have time on the
computer until Sunday or Monday so if you don't here from
me I'm not being rude. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Later,
Dan
 
   / John Deere 110 #33  
"So which weighs more, a pound of ABC or a pound of feathers?"

If the ABC is at the equator and the feathers are at the North Pole then the feathers will weigh more!

If you plan to use the tractor after construction for things like mowing, a detachable loader will be an enourmous benefit. I currently have a Kubota L48, while it is considerably more ruggedly built then the standard compact, much like the JD 110, not being able to remove the loader has turned out to be cumbersome for me now that I have moved the bulk of material at my place and do more mowing. I am considering going down in size, perhaps a Kubota L4610 or whatever the equivalent will be this September/October when the new models are due to be introduced. Rat...
 
   / John Deere 110 #34  
Can any 110 operaters explain how you operate the 4-in-1 loader versus the 4710 which has the seperate lever?
 
   / John Deere 110 #35  
Acbellnj,
Sorry I haven't chimed in,haven't had the time lately.From what I've read I believe the 4n1 on the 4700 is run with a seperate lever,so you need to do the two hand shuffle or be mighty tricky with the hand operating the loader,where as on the 110 there is a switch mounted in the loader controll lever,that can be pushed with your thumb,that activates the front hydraulics when pushed either up or down,now having had some time to run it with my 4n1 I have to say it is a very slick setup.This is the first 4n1 bucket I have had and I have to say it's all around great,very handy for final cleanup or picking up the rock that doesn't want to go in the bucket.

As far as breaking or ripping anything off of a 110,I just don't think it's possible unless somebody is really abusin' it,like repeatedly ramming a rock in high gear or senselessly side swiping the hoe at full throttle into an unmoveable object like a 4 foot diameter oak stump.I have 50 or so hours on mine now and have spread 100+ yards of process,a couple hundred yards of soil, dug some 2 foot diameter stumps,some 8+ feet deep test holes in rocky soil,and graded a couple of driveways,and the 110 has done it all extremely well,so as far as using for construction purposes it fills the bill quite nicely.For mowing though if you are bobbing and weaving around alot of obstacles, then as Rat said, a machine with a removeable loader may be the way to go.I'm not really famillar with the way things mount on the 4700's,but the way I look at it is,if its an add on attachment and not integrated into the frame of the machine,as the loader and hoe are on the 110,it is more vulnerable to breakage,and I think you'll also find that the lifting and digging capacities on the 110 are better than on a 4700.What it really boils down to though is what your final needs of the machine will be,you could always buy a 110,use it,sell it,and buy a machine primarily for maintenance and mowing,hope this helps,happy hunting!
 
   / John Deere 110 #36  
Just thought I'd do some more 110 promotion since I've had some more seat time /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.Yesterday I had to locate a well for a water pump company,they said it would be about an hour long job.....HAHA....There was no record on file as to where the well was,so we located the water line coming out of the house,dug down to it,and started to follow it.Most of these lines are usually 3 feet deep,this one was at about 4 and kept creeping deeper and deeper,the material was extremely rocky and I was digging with the 2' bucket,I was pulling out rocks that were almost as big as the front bucket and smaller.This was very annoying to dig in,but I have to say the hoe on this machine is fantastic,the power it has is amazing for a compact TLB.About 100' later I finally located the well,it was 9' down,so much for the 1 hour job.It took me 2.5 hours to dig it,which to me seems good ,considering the soil conditons and the depth.Today I went back to backfill the trench and cleanup the site,this is the first machine I have had a 4n1 bucket on and never really thought much of them ,but now after having it and using it for a while I have to say it is a great investment along with being a good frustration eliminator.I ended up backfilling the line with 2' of sand,then proceded to place material in the trench with the hoe and seperate the rocks at the same time,once I got the trench backfilled I used the loader to pick up all the rocks and load them in my truck,just being able to pinch the rocks with the 4n1 was a real time saver,I would have been shoving them all over the place trying to pick them up with the regular bucket.This was the most digging I have done with the hoe,and the hardest I have run the machine since getting it,and I have to say,it really surprised me how well it dug with the 2' bucket in all the rock,the whole machine performs very well for its size,and I continue to be pleased that I bought it.
 

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