john deere 2030

[chobeegator]

hello all,

I have broken the lever that raises and lowers the 3-point hitch arms. I was wandering if anyone on here has ever repaired one of those and if so what does it entail. It looks like I have to take a major plate off the top of the tractor (below the seat) to gain access, but before I started I wanted to get a little insight. I appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks.

 

[kennyd]

Welcome to TBN

I am not familiar with your machine, but I suggest learning how to use www.

jdparts​

and looking your tractor up. The parts diagrams can be invaluable for making repairs like this.

Here is a picture of the rockshaft lever I just got for you:

 

[chobeegator]

Thanks for the reply. The part that is broke is number 3, I am going to explore the site you recommended. The lever is broke right at the base of the tractor. I am interested in some advice to begin the fix. Thanks again.

 

[BigD9]

I've got the same tractor, but never had to go in and fix that part. I have had to remove the floor to get at the grease fittings on the drive shaft, so if you need advice on getting the floor off just yell. At least part # 3 looks cheap enough. Probably less that a $1000 right?

How did the part break?

 

[chobeegator]

I was running a 5'-6' disc on the 3-point and lifting and lowering occasionally as tractor would bog down or front would start sliding. It looks as part of it was already broke as center was only fresh break. the tractor needs to be split to fix the pto slipping so am debating whether we should just do it then or if this is totally separate fix. Also, am trying to gain insight on whether I would be biting off more than I can chew. Start getting too technical with adjustments and I might be out of my element.

 

[chobeegator]

ok housing is off and all looked well except looks like parts are made to not allow parts to "fall" into gears if control lever was to break. Here is my problem, the cylinder needs to move a little to allow the possibility of pushing out the control lever. I have removed four cap screws and two screws on the outside of the housing (which look like they could hold cylinder in place) and cylinder still does not budge. Is there something else that could be holding cylinder in place? Any suggestions ideas would be great. thanks.

 

[Zebra5]

Isn't there just a roll pin you have to drive out to remove the broken shaft?

 

[jd110]

There are five bolts that hold the cylinder in place. The four obvious ones on the bottom, and one on the front side of the housing that is horizontal from front to rear near the neutral safety switch. Although zebra5 is correct, you shouldn't need to move the cylinder to replace. There is a snap ring (#17)that is between the quadrant (#7) and the housing. unbolt the quadrant and the broken piece should slide out after the roll pin is removed. Then install the new lever in the quadrant before you slide it into the rockshaft housing and reinstall the pin. Sometimes the broken shaft is bent, which may require moving the cylinder to tap it out with punch and hammer.