John Deere #412 2 bottom plow
- Thread starter Bob Senti
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beenthere
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- Southern Wisconsin, USA
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- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
The plow is more than the TO 30 can handle? Or the plow is too small for the TO 30?
Puzzled by the "overmatched" wording.
Built 1952 - 56 so likely would be used on the 40, 420 etc. 2 cyl JD tractors.
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http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-vintage-tractors/212245-john-deere-model-412-plow.html
Puzzled by the "overmatched" wording.
Built 1952 - 56 so likely would be used on the 40, 420 etc. 2 cyl JD tractors.
Search shows
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-vintage-tractors/212245-john-deere-model-412-plow.html
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,447
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
I am in West Michigan, and we have very heavy clay here. I am new the plowing experience, and I am sure *I* am one of the variables that is making this difficult, but I want to make sure I am not using a plow that simply wont work for these conditions too.
I propped the tractor up on blocks about 8 inches on the left side on my concrete driveway so that I could level the plow off both front to back, and side to side, so I would have the best chance of success in the field.
#1) This all worked fine, but the first thing I noticed was the front coulter axle bracket assembly snags on the sway bar chains when I bring the plow up or settle it down to the ground. I can get it to go past it if I get out and push the plow over to the left (see #2) so its more centered as it drops, but that cant be the solution! A fellow suggested I remove the front coulter, but see my third point as to why that might not work either....
#2) Secondly, The whole plow tends to want to "drift" to the right when I lift it off the ground (standing still, not plowing) and I cant seem to adjust the right draw bar length or top link length in such a way to get the plow to balance more directly behind the tractor, even though it appears level to the ground. My fear is that when I do settle it into the ground it will not draw correctly because of this, and the 1st share will be too much behind the right wheel. I can minimize this some by adjusting the land slide, but its not ideal. I was thinking of shortening the right sway bar chain by a few links so it would keep it from going so far to the right but that seems like a patch to the problem.
#3) So, with all that being the case, I trucked out to my pasture. It is just that - an unplowed virgin pasture with about 4-6 inch tall grass (trashy!). I dropped her in and thinks were looking good but within about 15 feet the clay and grass had bound up around the coulters and plow bar, the clay quit rolling, and it was basically skipping off the top of the ground. I cleaned that up, and tried again, feathering the hyds and trying to go a little deeper to get a better "roll". That seemed to help a bit, but I quickly got bogged down again with trash.
It also seems to want to lift the front up. I can level her off and feather the hyds and that helps, but then it seems to come up out of the furrow and then Im done for.
I know there are a lot of variables. I just dont know how much margin of error I can have under these conditions or how precisely set these things need to be to work, and if a single bottom would be that much easier to work with?
Cheers,
T
I propped the tractor up on blocks about 8 inches on the left side on my concrete driveway so that I could level the plow off both front to back, and side to side, so I would have the best chance of success in the field.
#1) This all worked fine, but the first thing I noticed was the front coulter axle bracket assembly snags on the sway bar chains when I bring the plow up or settle it down to the ground. I can get it to go past it if I get out and push the plow over to the left (see #2) so its more centered as it drops, but that cant be the solution! A fellow suggested I remove the front coulter, but see my third point as to why that might not work either....
#2) Secondly, The whole plow tends to want to "drift" to the right when I lift it off the ground (standing still, not plowing) and I cant seem to adjust the right draw bar length or top link length in such a way to get the plow to balance more directly behind the tractor, even though it appears level to the ground. My fear is that when I do settle it into the ground it will not draw correctly because of this, and the 1st share will be too much behind the right wheel. I can minimize this some by adjusting the land slide, but its not ideal. I was thinking of shortening the right sway bar chain by a few links so it would keep it from going so far to the right but that seems like a patch to the problem.
#3) So, with all that being the case, I trucked out to my pasture. It is just that - an unplowed virgin pasture with about 4-6 inch tall grass (trashy!). I dropped her in and thinks were looking good but within about 15 feet the clay and grass had bound up around the coulters and plow bar, the clay quit rolling, and it was basically skipping off the top of the ground. I cleaned that up, and tried again, feathering the hyds and trying to go a little deeper to get a better "roll". That seemed to help a bit, but I quickly got bogged down again with trash.
It also seems to want to lift the front up. I can level her off and feather the hyds and that helps, but then it seems to come up out of the furrow and then Im done for.
I know there are a lot of variables. I just dont know how much margin of error I can have under these conditions or how precisely set these things need to be to work, and if a single bottom would be that much easier to work with?
Cheers,
T
sweettractors
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Deere plows pull hard. I would consider a 2-12 Dearborn or 2-12 Ferguson of the early fifties vintage. If the N series Ford's could pull those plows you won't have any trouble at all with the TO 30. Make sure the measurement from the center of the TO-30 drawbar to the inside edge of the right rear tire is around 23 inches. Ken Sweet