John Deere 4310 Won't Move After Giving it a Bath

madpup · Sep 18, 2019

I have a John Deere 4310 with the PowrReverser (so not the Hydrostat) PIN LV4310P135855. I took it out the other day and washed it and now it will not move (so at least it is currently a nice clean lawn ordainment). It starts and bucket works and rear three point works just fine. I checked all the connections for water and all are dry (seat sensor, clutch potentiometer cable, etc.), I checked all the fuses with an OM meter and all are good, I have tried every combination of the range selector and gear shift multiple times and I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes all with no luck. When I am on the seat and I put the tractor into gear and push the PowrReverser lever forward or backwards it just does not move.

What I have found is that when I am on the seat I do not get any error indicator lights however if I get off the seat with the tractor in gear normally that would cut the engine, however what it is doing now when I get off the seat with the tractor in gear and the PowrReverser lever in forward or reverse is the engine does not cut out and instead I get an error code of one long flash, one short flash and then 6 short flashes. I some posts on-line talking about the Clutch Potentiometer (it has a partnumber printed on it of RE53380A) or the clutch switch (more looks like a button) could be bad but I don't know how to test that or confirm from the error code when I get off the switch if that is the problem or not. I also find the timing strange since the Tractor has served me well for the past 9 years and this happened right when I went to move it after giving it a good bath.

I don't know if I can use my OHM meter to test the Clutch Potentiometer or if I can pull the cable from the Cluch Switch (button) and try jumping that or where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated.

TractorGuy · Sep 18, 2019

I would start by unplugging the connectors and blowing them out with compressed air.

Look at my thread on how to make a breakout harness to use in place of the JDG1575 breakout box.

ELECTRICAL TESTS AND ADJUSTMENTS
Test and Calibration Kit
Function:
To set the initial voltage readings on the potentiometers
and test and diagnose the potentiometers, pressure
transducers, speed sensors, and solenoid coils.
Equipment
JDG1575 Test Kit
Theory:
The Test and Calibration Kit is intended to be used to both
diagnose and set-up the operational components used to
engage and control the drive function on those
ePowrReverser and eHydro model machines equipped with
the e-MatchOS Electronic Operating System.
With the proper jumper wires connected to the test and
calibration kit, the following components can be tested and/
or set on the ePowrReverser machine:
Clutch Position Potentiometer, set-up and test for
voltage,
Forward Proportional Solenoid, test for current flow,
Reverse Proportional Solenoid, test for current flow,
Forward Pressure Transducer, test for voltage, and
Reverse Pressure Transducer, test for voltage.
With the proper jumper wires connected to the test and
calibration kit, the following components can be tested and/
or set on the eHydro machine:
Throttle Position Potentiometer, set-up and test for
voltage,
Forward Pedal Position Potentiometer, set-up and test
for voltage,
Reverse Pedal Position Potentiometer, set-up and test
for voltage,
Forward Proportional Solenoid, test for current flow,
Reverse Proportional Solenoid, test for current flow,
Flywheel Speed Sensor, test for frequency, and
MFWD Speed Sensor, test for frequency.

ePowrReverser - Clutch Position
Potentiometer Test
Reason:
To verify proper voltage input and output of the clutch
position potentiometer with the pedal in the Top of Travel
(TOT) and Bottom of Travel (BOT) positions.
Equipment:
JDG1575 Test Kit
Procedure:
1. Park machine safely in neutral with park brake locked.
2. Inspect the linkage between clutch pedal and
potentiometer for wear, damage or looseness. Repair or
replace as needed.
MX17140
3. Connect the red lead to the volt, ohms, Hz input jack (A)
of the multimeter and the voltage A terminal (B) of the
breakout box.
4. Connect the black lead to the com input jack (C) of the
multimeter and the voltage C terminal (D) of the breakout
box.
5. Connect the 3 pin extender harness (E) into the 3 pin
connector (F) of the breakout box.
6. Set the multimeter to the DCV position (G).
7. Set breakout box switch to the off position (H).
8. Connect the position sensor Y connector (I) between the
clutch position potentiometer (J), the machine wiring
harness (K), and the extender harness (L).
9. Turn the key switch to the run position.
10.The input voltage should be within specification. If not,
See æ’¤ower Circuit Operation on page 158.
MX17141
11.Move the red lead on the breakout box from the A
terminal to the B terminal (M).
12.Fully depress the clutch pedal to the BOT position.
13.The BOT voltage should be within specification. If not,
adjust potentiometer.
14.Release the clutch pedal to the TOT position.
15.The TOT voltage should be within specification. If not,
replace the clutch position potentiometer.
16.Unplug the position Y connector from the machine
wiring harness and the clutch potentiometer.
17.Connect the machine wiring harness to the clutch
potentiometer.
Specification:
Input Voltage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 ï½± 0.2 volts
TOT Signal Voltage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 - 4.8 volts
BOT Signal Voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 ï½± 0.1 volts

ePowrReverser - Clutch Position
Potentiometer Adjustment
Reason:
To adjust the clutch position potentiometer for the proper
voltage with the pedal in the Bottom of Travel (BOT)
positions.
Equipment:
JDG1575 Test Kit
Procedure:
1. Park machine safely in neutral with park brake locked.
2. Inspect the linkage between clutch pedal and
potentiometer for wear, damage or looseness. Repair or
replace as needed.
3. Connect the red lead to the volt, ohms, Hz input jack (A)
of the multimeter and the voltage B terminal (B) of the
breakout box.
4. Connect the black lead to the com input jack (C) of the
multimeter and the voltage C terminal (D) of the breakout
box.
5. Connect the 3 pin extender harness (E) into the 3 pin
connector (F) of the breakout box.
6. Set the multimeter to the DCV position (G).
7. Set breakout box switch to the off position (H).
8. Connect the position sensor Y connector (I) between the
clutch position potentiometer (J), the machine wiring
harness (K), and the extender harness (L).
9. Turn the key switch to the run position.
10.Loosen the lock nuts (M) enough that the potentiometer
will stay in place without turning, but can be rotated by
hand.
11.Fully depress the clutch pedal to the BOT position.
12.Rotate the potentiometer until the meter reading is
within specification.
13.With the calibration kit still attached, tighten the two nuts
to specification, being sure that the voltage reading does
not change.
14.Release the clutch pedal to the TOT position.
15.The TOT voltage should be within specification. If not,
replace the clutch position potentiometer.
16.Unplug the position Y connector from the machine
wiring harness and the clutch potentiometer.
17.Connect the machine wiring harness to the clutch
potentiometer.
Specification:
BOT Signal Voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 ï½± 0.1 volts
TOT Signal Voltage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 - 4.8 volts
Lock Nut Torque. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.4 Nç€• (30.0 lb-in.)

5030 · Sep 18, 2019

Whatever you come up with, be sure to coat the INSIDE of the connectors with di-electric grease prior to putting them back together. That includes Molex connectors as well.

madpup · Sep 19, 2019

Thank you for the suggestions. I called a few dealers for confirmation on what the error light means. First dealer I called told me "they would not look up the error code and that their service people get paid to work on tractors and not to talk on the phone". The second dealer I called (Bader & Sons in South Lyon MI) where great! They confirmed the error code was the clutch switch (PN LVA11188) and had one in stock for right around $20. I swapped it out in 15 minutes and that worked like a champ. Thank you for the suggestion on the grease 5030. When I get home I will go though and put a bit of di-electric grease on the connectors.

I do wish John Deere made it a bit easier to get the indicator light codes. I saw the service manual for sale for around $500 on John Deere sites and for sale around $20 on some questionable sites.

Thank you again.

super55 · Sep 20, 2019

Look at getting a CD version of the Tech manual. They usually are about 150 dollars. I copied mine to a thumb drive then put it on an old laptop that I keep in my garage. The tech manuals are definitely worth if you do your own repairs.

oosik · Sep 20, 2019

Soooo...... you got a bit overly ambitious on cleaning - I guess. I would hope the tractor would not experience this problem if left out in the rain. As far as dealers go - a very informative experience also. Now you know where not to take your tractor if it should need service. I even wonder if that one dealer knows what he has done. Probably not.........

super55 · Sep 20, 2019

I've had really good experiences with Bader dealerships as well. I bought a used JD 4 wheeler from them. They transferred it to their nearest store to me which is about 60 miles away so I wouldn't have to travel as far. Ended up buying the 4 wheeler and found out that they have a parts drop site at a farm only 9 miles from my house. The parts cost and turnaround is far faster then my local JD dealership especially on hy-gard oil. Been really good dealership to work with.

Industrial Toys · Sep 20, 2019

Compressed air can actually blow water into areas that are normally sealed. The IP ratings are not for water driven at compressed air pressures! A good, high quality (non residue) contact cleaner might work best. Just not on greased connectors as you would remove the grease.

The number one thing about trying to repair stuff you are unfamiliar with, is to do no further harm. I have repaired way too much stuff that people have damaged unecessarily in "trying" to fix it. Also makes troubleshooting a hundred times more difficult.