John Deere compact tractor 4110

[elad]

Bought this tractor new with 410 FEL,1072RB & 54" Quick Hitch front blade. I am wondering how safe this tractor is to clear land that is uneven and rutty. I have the feeling that it is quite tippy. Rear tires are loaded, 120# of wheel weights and heavy duty chains. Is it me, or is this tractor too small for the job? I have 28hrs. of run time on it, plowing driveway and pulling out trees. I am nervous about the grading. Should I be? Any suggestions any one will be appreicated.Thank You.

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

I have a 4115 with 410 FEL and 46 BH currently using it to clear land and haven't had any problems. My property isn't flat but there aren't any steep grades. You might want to add some more information to give people a better idea of the conditions you are talking about. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Welcome to TBN! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[keeney]

Make sure the rear wheels are flipped to their widest position.

I would add some more ballast to the rear as well when using the loader. Using the loader to its limit, you will want a total of 1000 lbs on the back. Between the wheel weights, filled tires, you are probably only at 500 or so.

- Rick

 

[elad]

The wheels are at there widest. I will attach my rear blade for extra weight. It weights 287#. Should I consider a ballast box inplace of the RB? Maybe this thinking is all wrong,but How about widening the wheels out by adding spacers? Say about 2"-3" on each rear wheel. Because bearing and axle load would be increased, maybe not a good idea. What would anyone think about doing this. The 3pt hitch is capable of lifting 1150#, 24"behind the link arms. If I don't lift that much weight, would the extra load on the axles etc be that much different? Your thoughts and suggestions are appreicated.
Thanks for your time, patience and expertice.

elad

 

[keeney]

I don't know about capacity of the axle, but widening the rear wheels is a good way to make the tractor more stable on slopes.

The other suggestion for stability is to use a belly weight instead of a rear weight. You already have filled tires.

A belly weight that mounted just like the MMM and had most of its mass towards the back might be something to consider to lower the CG. This would have to be custom built - I don't know of any commercially available other than the mower itself. This would tend to reduce your ground clearance a bit.

What is the steepest slope you want to traverse? 15 degrees (25%, or 1 unit rise per 4 units of run) is generally considered the limit for most compact tractors. With careful ballasting (loaded tires, belly weight, etc) you might be able to increase that to 20 degrees.

Some of the powertrac units advertise capabilites up to 45 degrees. (100% slope, or 1 foot of rise per 1 foot of run).

- Rick

 

[RalphVa]

I plan to get a KK carryall for my JD 4010 for when I want to carry stuff like dirt or gravel in the bucket. Could put one bucketful in the carryall, attach it and then load the bucket.

The 4010 seems fairly stable on my hilly land. Have to be careful in nailing the brakes with the bucket up. I generally keep the bucket as low as possible. Brush hogged this afternoon and had the bucket low in front as a rock/stump catcher.

Ralph

 

[JClark]

Clearing land is tough work especially for a small CUT like the 4110. Because I use my 4110 to cut lawn I don't have ballasted tires. When I use my FEL I use my 60" box blade for ballast. With the suitcase weights hung on it it adds up to 700# hanging well back on the tractor so it conterweights the FEL well. Underway I keep the bucket and the box blade as low as possible.

With your filled tires, wheel weights and rear ballast your 4110 should be very stable. Always keep the bucket low when travelling.

Grading should not be a problem. Again keep the FEL bucket low, turn slowly and go up and down, not across the slopes.

All that said, if you are clearing more than a couple acres I would suggest you need a bigger tractor.

 

[elad]

Does anyone have any experience in using wheel spacers on a compact 4110 John Deere tractor to widen out the rear wheels? I am thinking about maybe 2" to 3" on each rear wheel. Any suggestions or comments will be appreicated. I replaced my Super-C IHC with this compact because of the ease of operating it.[easier to get on and power steering is great. 4wheel - a big plus too. I feel it would be more stable with wider wheels. Am I thinking wrong? Any replys will be appreicated. THANK YOU
elad

 

[elad]

HI,
Thanks for your suggestions. All information is appreicated. I'm new at operating a compact tractor. Big change from a Super-C IHC. 1953. Thinking of looking into wheel spacers to widen out the rear wheels. Bad idea?????
Do you know anyone who did that with success. Good idea????
Thanks again
elad

 

[elad]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I don't know about capacity of the axle, but widening the rear wheels is a good way to make the tractor more stable on slopes.

The other suggestion for stability is to use a belly weight instead of a rear weight. You already have filled tires.

A belly weight that mounted just like the MMM and had most of its mass towards the back might be something to consider to lower the CG. This would have to be custom built - I don't know of any commercially available other than the mower itself. This would tend to reduce your ground clearance a bit.

What is the steepest slope you want to traverse? 15 degrees (25%, or 1 unit rise per 4 units of run) is generally considered the limit for most compact tractors. With careful ballasting (loaded tires, belly weight, etc) you might be able to increase that to 20 degrees.

Some of the powertrac units advertise capabilites up to 45 degrees. (100% slope, or 1 foot of rise per 1 foot of run).

- Rick
)</font>

 

[elad]

Hi,
I appreicate your comments and suggestions. I'm new to the compact tractors. I'm used to my Super C IHC and it's heavy weight. This little tractor seems very unstable. Maybe I just have to practice with it more. But I don't want to tip it over while practicing. I have about 40 stumps to take out andl then level the ground. I'm nervous about dropping into one of the stump holes and tipping over. I guess caution is my best defense. I;m going to buck up and go for it . Just keep the ROPS in the UP position.
THANK YOU again for thoughtfullness and consideration.
PS am thinking about wheel spacers. 2" or 3" for each rear wheel. elad

 

[RalphVa]

I put dual wheels on my Gravely. They add traction plus stability. Had to add some spacers made for it to add the other set of tires. Not sure JD makes them for the compacts. Think a second set of tires and wheels aren't that expensive.

Actually, I have 2 sets of duals for the Gravely, one set of turfs for most of the year and a set of ags with screw studs on it now.

One think I'd worry about is going up and over a stump with a 4wd tractor. That could tilt it over, especially on a hill. I cut a couple stump to the ground on my hill out back because I could foresee doing just that, or hitting the buggers with the brush hog.

Ralph

 

[jcmseven]

Elad,

I have read your question about your dilemma with the 4110 and the front end loader. I am not a JD serviceperson, but I do know at least two people who have experimented with the wheel spacers. Both own 4115 tractors which they use to maintain two independent Christmas tree farms. Neither feels that the spacers made an appreciable difference in stability to their tractors. 4115 tractors are more stable in general than the 4110 because of the longer wheelbase and slightly wider rear stance, but the difference is small. Neither example case person is currently using the wheel spacers originally tried. I think your best bet is to maximally ballast your tractor in the back, and not pursue the spacer option. Or consider a 4115? Good luck.

John M.