john deere gt235 hst fluid change

[tonytn1158]

Hi all, this is my first post on tbn. I have a 2002`ish john Deere gt235. Seems to a great tractor, has 428 hours on it. Have owned since aug of 2014, better then the Murrays and the craftsman that I owned in the past. I plan to change the host fluid come spring. Everyone says to not to take the black cap off. But I seem to recall to take both caps and fill the black top area to the brim and then put cap back and finish to the full line in the other area. Does anyone else recall reading that? I paid a $1,000 I feel like like got a great deal on it.

Thank you,

Tony

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN

Follow what the manual says to do. Here is a link if you don't have it. See the warning to NOT take the black cap off when draining, as it is sealed.

OMM148971_I2

 

[tonytn1158]

I also plan to use mobile 1 full syn. Oil. What are the feelings about the Mobil 1, instead of the jd "hy gard"?

 

[beenthere]

Is mobile syn cheaper? Otherwise don't know why you would not just use the hygard.

 

[tonytn1158]

FOUND IT: Per Deere's website... Concerning removing both fill caps. Refer to section M96049 Close to the bottom.

Changing Transmission Oil
Service Interval: For initial break-in, change transmission oil at 50 hours of operation. After that change transmission oil every 250 hours of operation.

1. Park tractor on a level area, STOP engine, and engage park brake.

NOTE: Transmission has two oil cavities, one on the hydrostatic transmission side and one on the differential gear side. Both sides are internally connected. Both drain plugs are M10 cap screws (14 mm socket).


M96070

2. Place drain pan so it is under drain plugs (A and B).

Drain plug locations:

· Front drain plug (A) will drain the hydrostatic transmission side.

· Rear drain plug (B) will drain the differential gear side.

IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! To help prevent dirt from entering reservoir and causing transmission damage, clean around reservoir filler caps before removing.



M96047

3. Remove filler caps (C and D), this will allow transmission oil to drain better.


M96049

4. Allow transmission oil to completely drain.

5. Install and tighten both drain plugs (A and B) to 15 N·m (133 lb-in.).

NOTE: Transmission has two oil cavities, one on the hydrostatic transmission side and one on the differential gear side. Both sides are internally connected. Both have separate fill caps.

6. Add a total of 4.4 L (4.6 qts.) John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD or an equivalent (J20D) transmission oil. (See Transmission Oil in this section.):


M96049

· Fill plug (D) will fill the differential gear side, add approximately 2 L (2 qts.). When oil is at the bottom of the threads, install and tighten filler cap.

· Fill plug (C) will fill the hydrostatic transmission side, add approximately 2.4 L (2.6 qts.).


M96047

7. Locate the translucent oil reservoir (E) next to the fuel tank. Oil tank is embossed with a FULL line and a ADD line.

8. Add transmission oil to bring oil level to the FULL line.

9. Install and tighten oil fill cap.

10. Start engine and check for oil leaks around drain plugs.

11. Unlock park brake and drive tractor forward and backward a few times.

12. Park tractor on level surface. STOP engine and check oil again. Add oil if necessary to bring oil up to the FULL line.

 

[bullbreaker]

Just recently sold my 2004 GT235 . A great garden tractor IMO. You got a good deal (OP) !!!!
Mine had a little over 500 hrs and sold it to a real good friend of mine for $2000. New it cost me $5184 OTD with a free promotional cart (pull behind ) the plastic one not steel.

 

[bruceatlam]

I would follow the manual and use low viscosity Hy-Gard. No questions asked ----------

 

[BBO]

I do not have the GT235 but mine took FOREVER to drain. Maybe wait until August or do whatever necessary to get that fluid as hot as possible before starting. Even then it might be an all day or overnight project.
Even filling it takes some time.
Then getting it to start working, air bubbles or whatever was a problem for me.
Heating the new fluid might help.

 

[Cliff731]

I changed the hydraulic fluid in my GT225 once... following the owner's manual instructions and with JD Hy-Gard. It can be done, but yes, it does require a lengthy amount of time for proper draining, etc. Refilling the reservoir is a PITA.

At about 3 years later, my dealer's shop foreman/senior mechanic later advised that I not change this fluid at the next interval - provided it looked clean and not overheated (dark - from running at low fluid levels)... and the tractor was running okay once the fluid had warmed up, such as after mowing for an hour or so (no noticeable loss of power)... just keep on running what was in the transaxle.