John Deere LT 160 wont move

   / John Deere LT 160 wont move #1  

mvs6382

New member
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Messages
1
Location
Cincinnati
Tractor
John Deere LT160
In the middle of mowing my yard something happened and my lt 160 cant seem to move forward. It want to but has this grinding noise and cant generate power to the rear wheels. The belt is properly installed but thats all i have checked this far. Any suggestions? 284 hours on it
 
   / John Deere LT 160 wont move #2  
Manual or hydrostatic transmission? If a hydro, it's probably shot and needs a rebuild. If a manual, the internal shift forks/mechanism may be jammed and not letting it into gear all the way (can try different gears). Have had that happen years ago on an older tractor.
 
   / John Deere LT 160 wont move #3  
There is a small rod sticking out the back of the mower that is there to disengage the transmission to allow for free movement for pushing or towing. Make sure this is pushed in all the way . If that is not a fix for your problem then post back.
 
   / John Deere LT 160 wont move #4  
I just had the disk brake lock tight on my Cub Cadet...same symptoms you describe. Pedal felt fine but caliper was jammed up tight. Hydro release rod mentioned above made no difference.

Dunno if you have a disk brake, but if you do, check it out.


btw, the disk brake is mounted on the tranny on mine, your's may be also.
 
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   / John Deere LT 160 wont move #5  
If it's a hydrostatic trans, I imagine it's the same as my L120 and LT110. If so, it's a K46 transmission made by Tuff Torq. I've serviced both of mine, the L120 just a couple weeks ago, with fantastic results. They were both getting to where they wouldn't pull hills, then losing speed even on flat ground.

There are parts inside that are undoubtedly worn and should be replaced, but pricey. If your like me, the mower has some dents and scratches, burns a little oil, etc, an $800 transmission is pushing the limits on what you want to invest so the service was a no brainer to me. Pull the wheels, remove linkages and belt and finally the trans. On a workbench or equivalent, pull a snap ring, fan and pulley. Carefully remove the rubberish looking plug to be reused. Both of mine had cracks, which were siliconed after reinstalled. Remove the magnet underneath and flip the unit over on a 5 gallon bucket to drain. When it stops, tip it, swirl it, it will drain some more. Get all you possibly can. Tip it back over and fill it up. Recommendation is 5w-50. Several parts stores keep this in Castrol syntec. Exactly 2 quarts should fill it to the magnet that you now put back in, clean of course. Tap the lid back on, reassemble, reinstall. Low rpm forward and back for a bit to bleed everything without gaulding. Made mine like new again.

Hope it helps. Very common problem. Good luck
 

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