John Deere X580 deck ?
- Thread starter coolbrze
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Wagtail
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
- Messages
- 12,681
- Location
- St Helens, Tasmania, Australia
- Tractor
- JD 4105 / JD Z355E (48" deck)
I've always 'jacked' the front of my D110 up... with a lot of precautions and forethought put in place. I try to anticipate 'what could possibly go wrong' and mitigate the circumstances, especially as I work alone. Always work on a dry, level surface and carry your mobile (cell) phone with you. If there's someone else around, have them there as a 'safety' person.
Seeing as I have a FEL on the 4105, typically with bale spikes with a roll-back frame, I lift & then lower the spikes so that the frame is extended horizontal. I drive the front of the D110 up to just in front of the edge of the frame, set the brake and then, using rope, tie both sides of the front axle to the edge of the frame. (as I'm retired Navy, I know my knots
) I then slowly lift the the front of the D110 up to the height that I want it at.
Then I place a number of pallets (4-5) under the front wheels of the D110, chock the back wheels (split firewood works for me), and then slowly lower the FEL so that the wheels are resting on the pallets yet there is still a bit of tension on the rope(s).
I can now access the bottom of the mower deck to remove the blades. My Owner Manual suggested using a 1.5' length of 2x4 to brace the blade(s) from moving as you take them off/on and it really does work, as opposed to trying to hang on to the blade with one hand as you ratchet the nut.
Remember the orientation of the blades and which side of the blades face down for when you put them back on.
After sharpening the blades, I then reverse the procedure for setting the D110 back down and securing the 4105's FEL.
Take your time. If this is the first time you've taken the blades off, make a note in your Owner Manual (blade removal section) of what size socket is required.
Seeing as I have a FEL on the 4105, typically with bale spikes with a roll-back frame, I lift & then lower the spikes so that the frame is extended horizontal. I drive the front of the D110 up to just in front of the edge of the frame, set the brake and then, using rope, tie both sides of the front axle to the edge of the frame. (as I'm retired Navy, I know my knots
) I then slowly lift the the front of the D110 up to the height that I want it at.Then I place a number of pallets (4-5) under the front wheels of the D110, chock the back wheels (split firewood works for me), and then slowly lower the FEL so that the wheels are resting on the pallets yet there is still a bit of tension on the rope(s).
I can now access the bottom of the mower deck to remove the blades. My Owner Manual suggested using a 1.5' length of 2x4 to brace the blade(s) from moving as you take them off/on and it really does work, as opposed to trying to hang on to the blade with one hand as you ratchet the nut.
Remember the orientation of the blades and which side of the blades face down for when you put them back on.
After sharpening the blades, I then reverse the procedure for setting the D110 back down and securing the 4105's FEL.
Take your time. If this is the first time you've taken the blades off, make a note in your Owner Manual (blade removal section) of what size socket is required.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,541
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Last few times, I've slid the forks on my 4300 FEL under the deck/tractor (455 and 425) and lifted. Removed the nuts from the blades with an impact wrench. Changed them out with new blades if needed, or with sharpened ones. Ratchet strap to keep the mower from sliding off the forks and a prop to prevent drop-down if such occurs. Never get under, only reach under the 54" deck.
Or prior to that, ran the front wheels up on an elevated concrete slab, and laid down beside the deck to remove nuts with a breaker bar. Chock the blades with a standing short 2x4 block. But not high enough to use the impact wrench or near the air supply.
But just had a thought as now have a cordless impact wrench, may see if there is room to do the blades with that. tks for the reminder of that new toy bought for a different purpose.
Or prior to that, ran the front wheels up on an elevated concrete slab, and laid down beside the deck to remove nuts with a breaker bar. Chock the blades with a standing short 2x4 block. But not high enough to use the impact wrench or near the air supply.
But just had a thought as now have a cordless impact wrench, may see if there is room to do the blades with that. tks for the reminder of that new toy bought for a different purpose.
Tractorable
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2017
- Messages
- 1,393
- Location
- Marshall, Va
- Tractor
- Tractorless, 2019 Toyota Tundra, 1980 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
The deck is so easy to remove on our X590 I just remove it and it’ll balance on the rear edge while I remove the blades with a DeWalt 20V impact wrench.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,541
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Tractorable
Glad to hear the DeWalt 20v impact wrench will work. That is what I was going to try tomorrow. :thumbsup:
18mm socket?
Glad to hear the DeWalt 20v impact wrench will work. That is what I was going to try tomorrow. :thumbsup:
18mm socket?
crazyal
Super Member
I put it up on my 2 post car lift if in a hurry. Otherwise I remove the deck and clean all the caked on grass at the same time. I would suggest putting some anti-seize on the bolts.
