hacklordsniper
New member
Please excuse my grammar and other mistakes, im not native English speaking person. I do have some experience with some machinery i imported from China and allready know where to start, but im not a mechanist! Im just a hoobyst and cant guarantee any of my actions are good for your or my tractor, or that any of them will help you.
Im making a new proper thread about experiences with my new Jinma 164Y, repairs and mods i have done. There is so little about them on the internet so maybe this topic can help someone in future. Im generally happy with the tractor, but for now there were some smaller and larger troubles with it. The good thing is that it is easy to repair simple common faults (the tractor has no special, complicated electronics and the wiring is quite simple). There are some concerns because of low quality mass production that are not easy to solve of repair, but more about that in following lines. Luckily for me im an electronicst person so electrical faults were not a problem to fix, i also have a lathe, mill, few CNC machines that can help me in my tasks. The tractor is a nice little project to improve in free time, lets go!
So i recieved a new tractor from the dealer, and i tought the tractor is properly assembled, all fluids replaced/added but that was not the case. Allready on first ride the tractor overheated, as dealer has not added coolant in it. I was little worried that tractor was used by dealer (tested) for about ~ hour without coolant. Now, 12 h later i feel the head gasket or the head itself are not damaged.
First i would like to show you few pictures of the tractor
Ok, here are some first faults i had with it and how to solve it. Please note this is not written in order, just how
i remebered some detail:
1. The tractor does not start, while turning the key it only makes a "click". The problem was
quite simple, the bracked holding an switch at clutch pedal simply unscrewed and rotated out of its
way. Simple thread locker and readjustment made this repair last a long time.
2. Tractor will give oil pressure indicator light, oil pressure will severely drop. If you are lucky
like me your oil pump did not fail. When assembling the pressure sensor to engine block they
did not use any kind of gasket, just a gasket making silicone on the thread. The silicone softened
with tractor use (the little bits that were in front of the sensor) and closed the sensor input hole.
Remove the sensor, clean it, clean the thread in block and use only copper washer for assembly. This is
the oil pressure sensor. Be careful as it is little complicated to unscrew it while engine is fully assembled,
just take a wrench and work in small steps from various sides, it needs only 1/4 of turn to be loosened with
wrench and further you can do it with hand.
3. Take notice the screws on the ROPS hinges. Even the hinges are quite large and protruding screws
are made in such fashion like intented to cut half of your shoulder or head off. I machined a radius on the
screw head to make it less dangerous and shortened the other end. Maybe its not problem for small Chinese people,
but for large european there is not much space. Also take notice the protection i installed after cutting my shoulder
on this hinge. Im close to sawing it off and rewelding it without the hinge, i dont need it anyway.
4. Use safety nuts on any exposed screws, you will cut on them eventually
5.One morning the tractor would not start anymore, it only gave much white smoke, started for a second or two
then died. The heaters were not working and this engine cannot start without them. Since this tractor does not
have an ammeter (i will add it) you can check do your heaters work by looking the instrument cluster backlight (it will
go dim when heaters are turned on, since they consume quite current).
First check the voltage on heater strip on top of engine head, there is a long copper strip screwed to all 3 heaters
and big thick green wire coming to them. The strip is located in line with valve cover. If you get no voltage on top (while
putting the key in heating position), remove the keylock. Just unscrew a large nut arround it and it will fall down below
the small hood over reservoir. The heater output is last position on keylock, 2 wires green and small red one for heater indicator.
Measure the voltage here, and if it is ok, then there is a connector on left side of tractor where i had a fault. The connector
disconected, just push your hand trough small hood and you can pull the connector outside, wires are long enough. Recheck voltage on
heaters and you are good to go!
6. On my tractor the speed sensor was screwed so deep in the flywheel that it was heavily ground and damaged by flywheel.
Unscrew it out and start the tractor, slowly screw it in until you get the tachometer working stable. At one point your
tachometer will start to jump up and down, and only 1/8 turn later it will work stable and far away from flywheel. Dont forget
to lock it in place with the nut!
7. This is 4WD lock i built for the tractor. The tractor is easily engaged in 4WD mode while sitting on it. Since i dont need
it and dont use it (and dont want to without reason) the handle is locked. I can easily disengage the lock just by sliding it
to the right if i would need the 4 WD. For normal use it is not needed, and the front wheel drive is not designed very robust on this
tractor.
8. The differential lock pedal is located in such way it could be accidentially stopped on when resting your leg. Combine
turning and accidentally pressed diferential lock and you can have destroyed tractor. I also locked it since i will never, never
need it. But if i will a big thumbscrew is unscrewed in 2 seconds and you can use it (not pretty, but it works!)
9. Dont forget to clean main chasis ground to metal and screw it back in with stepped washer for electrical contact. You will
loose ground eventually and have problems.
10. My tractor was leaking fuel everywhere, part problem was cheap bad quality PVC fuel hoses, part of it was
that they tightened it so bad they cut it in pieces! This small investment worth of 1 cup of coffe is really worth it
considering howmuch fuel prices are today. I replaced all fuel hoses with good quality one.
11. Since i dont have a habit of driving a tractor i forgot to release handbrake once and wondered why tractor is so
hard to move, its idiot mistake. But same day i built a handbrake indicator to remind me can i go or no! There is fused
power on the cigarette lighter, and wiring was inserted in original installation tubes.
12. There is many places where attachments would be mounted (like front loader) and trough some holes
you can see flywheel spining. It is good idea to insert short screws in this threaded holes for dirt, dust
and water not to enter them. Use short screws or you can for example break your flywheel! This screws are only cosmetical
and have no purpose, so 2-3 threads engagment is more than enough.
13. On the chasis from both sides there are screws holding the engine to chasis. This screws are screwed directly in engine
block. It is good to check tightness of various screws but be extremly careful about this screws and DO NOT try to tighten them.
The are 10 mm, M10, normal pitch screws, but there is some problems. First is that hole in chasis are about 13 mm so they could easily
align the holes to engine block and compensate for large (cheap) manufacturing tolerances. They have not used a washer, just
a locking washer and were assembled with a guy crazy on pneumatic ratchet. Half of threads in engine block are heavily damaged and
the screw cannot be tigthened in anyway. Where the screw threading in engine block was not damaged the screw is tightened so hard
that its head deformed and entered somehow in the oversize hole. If you just touch this screw to try to tighten it the screw will
brake in engine block like glass! And then you are in serious trouble, any kind of extraction is impossible as screws are little bit
too long and front of screw has heavily deformed on top where it was pushing unthreaded part in engine block (good luck they have not
cracked the engine block!). The only solution is to gently tap the screws with small hammer and unscrew them, after that apply generous ammounts
of strongest thread locker you have and insert new screw, tighten moderately. Please not the screw threads are eaten away inside engine
block and trying to tighten to anykind of proper torque will just make the screw spin in what is left of damaged thread. That is the only solution
to this problem i can see. As i have no information about howmuch space is there in the block i cannot confirm could you redrill the holes and
tap them to next thread (M12). Considering this is a Chinese engine after all, i suspect there isnt any generous space in there
that you could use for cutting larger thread. The threadlocking fluid might prevent the screws ever again being removed, im fine with that
since if the time comes when the engine should be taken our for repair it will be much more economical to buy a new tractor
That is all for now, still more mods and repairs to come! Any questions, please ask! Sorry for making you read such long post!
Im making a new proper thread about experiences with my new Jinma 164Y, repairs and mods i have done. There is so little about them on the internet so maybe this topic can help someone in future. Im generally happy with the tractor, but for now there were some smaller and larger troubles with it. The good thing is that it is easy to repair simple common faults (the tractor has no special, complicated electronics and the wiring is quite simple). There are some concerns because of low quality mass production that are not easy to solve of repair, but more about that in following lines. Luckily for me im an electronicst person so electrical faults were not a problem to fix, i also have a lathe, mill, few CNC machines that can help me in my tasks. The tractor is a nice little project to improve in free time, lets go!
So i recieved a new tractor from the dealer, and i tought the tractor is properly assembled, all fluids replaced/added but that was not the case. Allready on first ride the tractor overheated, as dealer has not added coolant in it. I was little worried that tractor was used by dealer (tested) for about ~ hour without coolant. Now, 12 h later i feel the head gasket or the head itself are not damaged.
First i would like to show you few pictures of the tractor
Ok, here are some first faults i had with it and how to solve it. Please note this is not written in order, just how
i remebered some detail:
1. The tractor does not start, while turning the key it only makes a "click". The problem was
quite simple, the bracked holding an switch at clutch pedal simply unscrewed and rotated out of its
way. Simple thread locker and readjustment made this repair last a long time.
2. Tractor will give oil pressure indicator light, oil pressure will severely drop. If you are lucky
like me your oil pump did not fail. When assembling the pressure sensor to engine block they
did not use any kind of gasket, just a gasket making silicone on the thread. The silicone softened
with tractor use (the little bits that were in front of the sensor) and closed the sensor input hole.
Remove the sensor, clean it, clean the thread in block and use only copper washer for assembly. This is
the oil pressure sensor. Be careful as it is little complicated to unscrew it while engine is fully assembled,
just take a wrench and work in small steps from various sides, it needs only 1/4 of turn to be loosened with
wrench and further you can do it with hand.
3. Take notice the screws on the ROPS hinges. Even the hinges are quite large and protruding screws
are made in such fashion like intented to cut half of your shoulder or head off. I machined a radius on the
screw head to make it less dangerous and shortened the other end. Maybe its not problem for small Chinese people,
but for large european there is not much space. Also take notice the protection i installed after cutting my shoulder
on this hinge. Im close to sawing it off and rewelding it without the hinge, i dont need it anyway.
4. Use safety nuts on any exposed screws, you will cut on them eventually
5.One morning the tractor would not start anymore, it only gave much white smoke, started for a second or two
then died. The heaters were not working and this engine cannot start without them. Since this tractor does not
have an ammeter (i will add it) you can check do your heaters work by looking the instrument cluster backlight (it will
go dim when heaters are turned on, since they consume quite current).
First check the voltage on heater strip on top of engine head, there is a long copper strip screwed to all 3 heaters
and big thick green wire coming to them. The strip is located in line with valve cover. If you get no voltage on top (while
putting the key in heating position), remove the keylock. Just unscrew a large nut arround it and it will fall down below
the small hood over reservoir. The heater output is last position on keylock, 2 wires green and small red one for heater indicator.
Measure the voltage here, and if it is ok, then there is a connector on left side of tractor where i had a fault. The connector
disconected, just push your hand trough small hood and you can pull the connector outside, wires are long enough. Recheck voltage on
heaters and you are good to go!
6. On my tractor the speed sensor was screwed so deep in the flywheel that it was heavily ground and damaged by flywheel.
Unscrew it out and start the tractor, slowly screw it in until you get the tachometer working stable. At one point your
tachometer will start to jump up and down, and only 1/8 turn later it will work stable and far away from flywheel. Dont forget
to lock it in place with the nut!
7. This is 4WD lock i built for the tractor. The tractor is easily engaged in 4WD mode while sitting on it. Since i dont need
it and dont use it (and dont want to without reason) the handle is locked. I can easily disengage the lock just by sliding it
to the right if i would need the 4 WD. For normal use it is not needed, and the front wheel drive is not designed very robust on this
tractor.
8. The differential lock pedal is located in such way it could be accidentially stopped on when resting your leg. Combine
turning and accidentally pressed diferential lock and you can have destroyed tractor. I also locked it since i will never, never
need it. But if i will a big thumbscrew is unscrewed in 2 seconds and you can use it (not pretty, but it works!)
9. Dont forget to clean main chasis ground to metal and screw it back in with stepped washer for electrical contact. You will
loose ground eventually and have problems.
10. My tractor was leaking fuel everywhere, part problem was cheap bad quality PVC fuel hoses, part of it was
that they tightened it so bad they cut it in pieces! This small investment worth of 1 cup of coffe is really worth it
considering howmuch fuel prices are today. I replaced all fuel hoses with good quality one.
11. Since i dont have a habit of driving a tractor i forgot to release handbrake once and wondered why tractor is so
hard to move, its idiot mistake. But same day i built a handbrake indicator to remind me can i go or no! There is fused
power on the cigarette lighter, and wiring was inserted in original installation tubes.
12. There is many places where attachments would be mounted (like front loader) and trough some holes
you can see flywheel spining. It is good idea to insert short screws in this threaded holes for dirt, dust
and water not to enter them. Use short screws or you can for example break your flywheel! This screws are only cosmetical
and have no purpose, so 2-3 threads engagment is more than enough.
13. On the chasis from both sides there are screws holding the engine to chasis. This screws are screwed directly in engine
block. It is good to check tightness of various screws but be extremly careful about this screws and DO NOT try to tighten them.
The are 10 mm, M10, normal pitch screws, but there is some problems. First is that hole in chasis are about 13 mm so they could easily
align the holes to engine block and compensate for large (cheap) manufacturing tolerances. They have not used a washer, just
a locking washer and were assembled with a guy crazy on pneumatic ratchet. Half of threads in engine block are heavily damaged and
the screw cannot be tigthened in anyway. Where the screw threading in engine block was not damaged the screw is tightened so hard
that its head deformed and entered somehow in the oversize hole. If you just touch this screw to try to tighten it the screw will
brake in engine block like glass! And then you are in serious trouble, any kind of extraction is impossible as screws are little bit
too long and front of screw has heavily deformed on top where it was pushing unthreaded part in engine block (good luck they have not
cracked the engine block!). The only solution is to gently tap the screws with small hammer and unscrew them, after that apply generous ammounts
of strongest thread locker you have and insert new screw, tighten moderately. Please not the screw threads are eaten away inside engine
block and trying to tighten to anykind of proper torque will just make the screw spin in what is left of damaged thread. That is the only solution
to this problem i can see. As i have no information about howmuch space is there in the block i cannot confirm could you redrill the holes and
tap them to next thread (M12). Considering this is a Chinese engine after all, i suspect there isnt any generous space in there
that you could use for cutting larger thread. The threadlocking fluid might prevent the screws ever again being removed, im fine with that
since if the time comes when the engine should be taken our for repair it will be much more economical to buy a new tractor
That is all for now, still more mods and repairs to come! Any questions, please ask! Sorry for making you read such long post!
