DIYGuy
Gold Member
Let me get to the question 1st, and then my observations on my 50hr. self-service. AKA: Holy smokey, that's a really big mess.
My tachometer started failing intermittently about a month ago. It would sometimes register 1/2, or 1/4 of the actual speed. Sometimes it would register 0, and on rare occasions, it would register actual speed. Now it doesn't register anything at all for the last 8 hrs. or so of operation. I thought the error was a sensor adjustment.
I turned the sensor in 1/2 turn, still nothing. I rewired the connections as they were suspect, still nothing. I was leaning toward the sensor as I was getting some reading out of the tach, thinking that it wasn't sending all/enough pulses.
SO, I turned the sensor in a little further, and it made very light contact with the flywheel and I immediately backed it out.
I've probably damaged the sensor and will need a replacement even with the light contact. But then what? and how do I properly gap the sensor? And finally, this is the brass threaded thing about the size of a pinky finger, threaded into the bell housing right next to the fuel injector pump.
OK, Now onto the 50 hr. service.
I used all of the NAPA filters for my 224, Fuel, Oil, and Air. I removed all of the 4 major oil fluids first (Engine, Hydraulic, Drive line, and front diff.) There are more drain plugs on these things than I ever imagined. I now know that I didn't properly drain the rear differential or hydraulic reservoir when I assembled it. 4 plugs on the drive line, 1 on the front diff, and1 on the hydraulic reservoir.
The NAPA Oil and Fuel filters are substantially bigger than the Fram or Chinese units. The air filter is far more robust as well. NAPA filters from here on out for me.
The engine oil was filthy black. The hydraulic filter mechanism clogged with particulates. The front differential was in really good shape. The hydraulic oil was reasonable.
The other thing I've noticed is that there are several different takes on what to use for replacement oils. I forged a new path and made up my own list. It's like having your own religon almost.
Front Diff: 80w90 Hypoid Gear Oil (Almost 1 Gal)
Hydraulic Res. NAPA R&O Hydraulic Oil (15w I think) (2 Gal.)
Drive Line: 80w90 Hypoid Gear Oil (Little over 4 Gal.)
Engine: 15w40 (5qt.)
Fuel Injector Pump: 15w40 (~6 oz.)
These fluid amounts are the same as what I got out. I realize that 1/2 of the hydraulic fluid was not changed, probably left in the steering and pump.
Now the fun part. I had no idea how much fluid was in the drive line when I dropped the drain plug out of the rear diff and I mean dropped in the roll on the floor to a galaxy far far away kind of dropped. The creeper box, the gear box, the H/L box, the PTO mechanism, and the rear diff are all one big reservoir. So, I dropped the rear plug 1st, and I put my big 2 gallon oil pan underneath and went around the wheel (Galaxy Far Far Away) to pick up the plug, came back around and found 2.5 gallons of skany chinese oil in my 2 gallon pan, grabbed a one gallon pan, put it under, realized it was filling too fast.
Grabbed a 5 gallon pail (Tractor is up on ramps and jack stands to make working on the underside easier) and put it in the spreading puddle of oil to catch the last bits. I dumped my pan into the pail not knowing how much more there was and to start draining from the other plugs.
Lessons learned. A 5 gail pail is really hard to empty when it's full of smelly oil. The major service is hard work and you really need to time it so that you're not working in 20 degree weather. It needs to be done outside on a sunny warm day. A propane heater only goes so far and even running the tractor for 30 minutes to warm everything up only helps drain it out.
Another lesson, remove the towbar and it's support structure before draining out the hydraulic reservoir. What a mess that made. It dribbles out and runs down the back end where it then proceeds to coat the entire drawbar mechanism with 30wt. sludge.
How does it run now? Unbelievable difference. The drive line is much quieter. It starts much better (I wonder if the heavy fluid in the pump makes it tough to start?) I can turn the PTO shaft easily by hand, it was pretty stiff before. And the 3pt. works immediately after it starts. I didn't have to wait 10 minutes.
FWIW,
DIYGuy (MarkS)
My tachometer started failing intermittently about a month ago. It would sometimes register 1/2, or 1/4 of the actual speed. Sometimes it would register 0, and on rare occasions, it would register actual speed. Now it doesn't register anything at all for the last 8 hrs. or so of operation. I thought the error was a sensor adjustment.
I turned the sensor in 1/2 turn, still nothing. I rewired the connections as they were suspect, still nothing. I was leaning toward the sensor as I was getting some reading out of the tach, thinking that it wasn't sending all/enough pulses.
SO, I turned the sensor in a little further, and it made very light contact with the flywheel and I immediately backed it out.
I've probably damaged the sensor and will need a replacement even with the light contact. But then what? and how do I properly gap the sensor? And finally, this is the brass threaded thing about the size of a pinky finger, threaded into the bell housing right next to the fuel injector pump.
OK, Now onto the 50 hr. service.
I used all of the NAPA filters for my 224, Fuel, Oil, and Air. I removed all of the 4 major oil fluids first (Engine, Hydraulic, Drive line, and front diff.) There are more drain plugs on these things than I ever imagined. I now know that I didn't properly drain the rear differential or hydraulic reservoir when I assembled it. 4 plugs on the drive line, 1 on the front diff, and1 on the hydraulic reservoir.
The NAPA Oil and Fuel filters are substantially bigger than the Fram or Chinese units. The air filter is far more robust as well. NAPA filters from here on out for me.
The engine oil was filthy black. The hydraulic filter mechanism clogged with particulates. The front differential was in really good shape. The hydraulic oil was reasonable.
The other thing I've noticed is that there are several different takes on what to use for replacement oils. I forged a new path and made up my own list. It's like having your own religon almost.
Front Diff: 80w90 Hypoid Gear Oil (Almost 1 Gal)
Hydraulic Res. NAPA R&O Hydraulic Oil (15w I think) (2 Gal.)
Drive Line: 80w90 Hypoid Gear Oil (Little over 4 Gal.)
Engine: 15w40 (5qt.)
Fuel Injector Pump: 15w40 (~6 oz.)
These fluid amounts are the same as what I got out. I realize that 1/2 of the hydraulic fluid was not changed, probably left in the steering and pump.
Now the fun part. I had no idea how much fluid was in the drive line when I dropped the drain plug out of the rear diff and I mean dropped in the roll on the floor to a galaxy far far away kind of dropped. The creeper box, the gear box, the H/L box, the PTO mechanism, and the rear diff are all one big reservoir. So, I dropped the rear plug 1st, and I put my big 2 gallon oil pan underneath and went around the wheel (Galaxy Far Far Away) to pick up the plug, came back around and found 2.5 gallons of skany chinese oil in my 2 gallon pan, grabbed a one gallon pan, put it under, realized it was filling too fast.
Grabbed a 5 gallon pail (Tractor is up on ramps and jack stands to make working on the underside easier) and put it in the spreading puddle of oil to catch the last bits. I dumped my pan into the pail not knowing how much more there was and to start draining from the other plugs.
Lessons learned. A 5 gail pail is really hard to empty when it's full of smelly oil. The major service is hard work and you really need to time it so that you're not working in 20 degree weather. It needs to be done outside on a sunny warm day. A propane heater only goes so far and even running the tractor for 30 minutes to warm everything up only helps drain it out.
Another lesson, remove the towbar and it's support structure before draining out the hydraulic reservoir. What a mess that made. It dribbles out and runs down the back end where it then proceeds to coat the entire drawbar mechanism with 30wt. sludge.
How does it run now? Unbelievable difference. The drive line is much quieter. It starts much better (I wonder if the heavy fluid in the pump makes it tough to start?) I can turn the PTO shaft easily by hand, it was pretty stiff before. And the 3pt. works immediately after it starts. I didn't have to wait 10 minutes.
FWIW,
DIYGuy (MarkS)
