JUST GOT THE GT 2550

[wolfie06]

Hi Everyone
I am brand new to this forum so forgive me if my post doesn't belong here......... Today is day 1 with the cub GT2550, We bought it from a reputable dealer here and paid 4310.00 with tax and a 5 year service contract..(gee should I have bought that??) it cost 395.00

We had a 3 year old huskee supreme that just couldn't hold up to our yard, it basically fell apart, the front wheel came off, the mover goes thru 4 sets of belts a season, as well as 1 set of idler pulleys ....... so bye bye supreme HELLO CUB CADET

I just got the GT2550 home and ran it on our 2 acres and I actually enjoyed cutting the grass!! (lol) there is a BIG difference in feel and stability with this mower, it also cut my lawn about 25 minutes faster than our huskee.

My concern will be reliability and long term use I BETTER GET MORE THAN 3 YEARS SERVICE ... I expect like 10 to 15 !! our yard is a bit challenging with some divits, hills, crevasses and bumps, the cub seemed to EASILY and SMOOTHLY handle the entire yard, so far I am impressed.
Also I am a stickler for maintenance! I go by the book! the cub seems to need a bit more maintenance but I will protect my investment by following the maintenance schedule on time as recommended by cub.

I am interested in any comments on this machine and also opinions as to the purchase of that warranty.... pay me now or pay me later?? or so they say... and I didn't want to risk a big bill.... I welcome all comments and I am glad to be a member of this forum and plan on a long stay!!
thank you all!
Mark C
Florida!

 

[micman32]

Welcome to the group Wolfie!!!! You made a great purchase. I have a 2003 CC 2518. It was the first model of the 2500 series. I had a Craftsman before I got a Cub. It did the job but just wasn't a "heavy duty" machine. I also had alot of trouble with the drive belt slipping off. Sounds like our yards are about the same. Hilly, Bumps etc. I have had no problems with traction and the tractor is very stable. I have had very little problems most being covered under warranty. My dealer experience has been great. I haven't had any problems with them at all.
I didn't purchase the service contract. Does the service contract you purchased cover everything for 5 years? Cubs standard warranty covers everything for 2 years and the drive train for 3 additional years. I thought that was enough for me.
I also have it dealer serviced every winter.
Again Welcome. You get many years of service with your Cub!

 

[JTKub]

Mark, with reasonable care, you should get lots of years out of her. One thing I always recommend with the mower decks is, set your cut hight and deck wheels so that the deck wheels rarely hit the ground. Only on high spots, etc.. If this style deck bounces around on the ground long-term, it will beat the crap out of the deck and machine (drastically reduce the lifespan).

G/luck
Joel

 

[wolfie06]

Thanks for the comments!!we feel good about this mower and any other folks that have this mower please post your opinions!!
thanks!

 

[MrWiggles2]

Wolfie,

All the Cub 2000's are basically the same machines, just different engines and deck sizes. As a stickler for maintenance myself, if you go by the manual they do things that my dealer calls unorthodox. My dealer gave me this advice and its really worked. Don't baby the machine. Meaning, run it at wide open or close to wide open when cutting, pulling, etc. My dealer swears they do more warranty work on Cubs that are "babied". Change the oil and filter after the first 5 to 7 hours. Then every 50 hours. Don't touch the hydro filter until the first 100 hours. Replace the filter, top off the fluid and you are good. You don't need to replace or drain the fluid. Grease the zerks and you are good. Its an easy machine to care for, but going by the manual will cost you a lot in fluids and filters that just aren't necessary. After the Cub has broken in sufficiently, then you can consider synthetic oil, which I have done. I started running it after 100 hours. Easier starts and protection from higher temps is why I did it. You can decide when you get there. Congrats on a great tractor, have fun you have a good one.

 

[jmt1271]

Mark, with reasonable care, you should get lots of years out of her. One thing I always recommend with the mower decks is, set your cut hight and deck wheels so that the deck wheels rarely hit the ground. Only on high spots, etc.. If this style deck bounces around on the ground long-term, it will beat the crap out of the deck and machine (drastically reduce the lifespan).

G/luck
Joel

Are the decks on the 25xx tractors different than the deck on my 3200? My casters and deck wheels actually support the deck while mowing, allowing to be in "ground following" mode. This gives a stunning cut, even on my less than stunning yard. It will even stripe the yard.

 

[JTKub]

Are the decks on the 25xx tractors different than the deck on my 3200? My casters and deck wheels actually support the deck while mowing, allowing to be in "ground following" mode...

Yes the 2K and 3K series decks are different. Some of the shells may be the same, but the drive system and some of the bolt-on's are different. The larger decks on the 2K series machines have the outrigger wheels as well, where you can set the deck in ground engaging mode if you wish. I personally would not go long term in ground contact mode as something is going to give eventually. You will get cracks or broken wheels. IMO heavy fabricated decks are better suited for that type of service, although simplicity (stamped) decks with the full width rear roller hold up very well with their unique deck suspension.

G/luck
Joel

 

[wolfie06]

Thanks for the info.. we do notice 1 problem ... we were told when your done mowing to let the cub idle for 1 to 2 minnutes as this prevents backfiring when you shut it off...........well.................. we followed our dealers suggestion............and it still "after runs" so I try to just let it run longer and it still does it.............any suggestions...
otherwise this seems to be a great machine.........

 

[Fordlords]

I remember other owners talking about the shutoff pop from these tractors. If I remember correctly the answer from the dealers is to shut off the engine at part throttle, and most said it solved the problem. The Command in my Craftsman did this too- it's not a run-on, but what happens is when the engine is still spinning after the ignition is shut off, it still takes in gas from the carb during those revolutions which purges out the engine into the muffler where it's ignited by the intense heat there- thus the, "pop." Part throttle is a leaner fuel mixture than at idle so it has less tendency to do this.

-Fordlords-

 

[JSharp]

My 2554 pops even if I let it idle down a minute or so. What actually works to prevent it though it's not obvious is to have the throttle up. A bit over 1/2 to full throttle = no pop. Anything less and it pops.

It seems wrong, but it works.