Just had a really weird thought.

[Diggin It]

And yes, it hurt.

This wall is about 12+ inches thick. It's drywall, blue foam insulation board, concrete block, blue foam insulation board and vinyl siding. The block runs from about 16" (2 blocks) below the floor to just above the ceiling line (green line), about 8' above the floor. From there up, the house wall is wood frame. Wall is kind of a neutral off-white/ivory but the lighting in the shot makes it look peach.

It would be more of a job than I'd want to take on, but how possible is this? Remove the window and put in a full view 36" door. The block would have to be cut out obviously, and at first thought, it would be just to the top of the door clearance, or a little over 7' which would leave only one or two blocks above it before the wood frame. That would probably mean a steel plate over the door header to support those two courses of block.

But what about taking those two top courses of blocks out also and building a new wood wall portion over the door? You'd still have the block below the door and could build the load bearing aspect into the sides of the door frame. Would it matter that the concrete block is completely severed to insert the door?

 

[Peter 315]

Do you have baseboard heat?

 

[MossRoad]

There's probably already a steel lintel above the window.

 

[Diggin It]

Do you have baseboard heat?

No.

There's probably already a steel lintel above the window.

Yes, but that's only at about 6', maybe a little more.

 

[chim]

Does the block above the window carry the second floor? Roof? I’ve seen openings like this made in existing structures, and it usually involves some creative temporary support.

 

[Diggin It]

Does the block above the window carry the second floor? Roof?

Roof yes. At that point there is only a portion of the attic, not really the full upper 1/2 story. The frame rests across the top of the block wall, so there would be a 40" or so open span temporarily while the new section is built.

 

[Dan Lamb]

How wide is window ? Do you have enough width to put a couple trimmer studs in and a header once you remove blocks above window , throw a couple braces under rafters on outside or inside depending how it痴 been framed to support roof, can be done pretty easy , good luck

 

[oosik]

Sounds like it would work well. Just plan out each step so you don't have an - "OOPS".

 

[Diggin It]

I'm into so many projects right now, there is no way I'm taking this on. Plus, I don't have a concrete saw to cut the blocks or the knowledge to use one if I rented it. I'd have to hire at least that portion out. I think it would be OK structurally, but I'd lose that whole wall which means that side table would have to find another place, not that it's all that much of an issue. It would be really convenient since that's the only side of the house that doesn't have a door of any kind. The new shed roof/awning I just put up covers that area, so I'd be able to leave the door open in decent weather even if raining.

What looks like baseboard heat is Wiremold 4000 raceway I added when I did the drywall and insulation so I could have power on that wall without getting into the block. That could be reworked.

Window width is somewhere around 30", so it would only be one block length that would have to come out either side of it to allow for the framing.

 

[blacktruck]

It looks completely doable for a homeowner. As long as there is not a main supporting post/beam or something similar above the proposed opening you should be good. I would take all the blocks above the opening and frame a support to replace the strength of the wall you removed. That would be attached directly to the current wood framing of the house. As mentioned above, go in steps for the project and have a decent plan.