Just had a well put in. Thoughts appreciated

[1930]

158 feet of casing and crystal clear water which is uncommon for my area. Driller thinks I tapped into a spring.

Now I have to deal with the contract I signed authorizing them to use galvanized pipe. Didn't know at the time that poly pipe was really a better option.

They haven't installed anything and I'm assuming poly pipe is cheaper than galv steel so maybe I can talk them out of the steel.

Part of the contract also includes a bladder tank. I need the water at this point only to fill my 275 gall ibc totes so I can water the trees I'm planting. ( I have a truck/trailer/pump)

I don't plan to start the actual building process for a year or 2.

Do you guys think it wise to just put the bladder tank in storage for the time being rather than letting it sit out in the weather?

Water table is about 55 ft. Anything else I should consider installing? Might as well do it right the first time.

I need to get water down to the other end of my property eventually which is about 600 feet and then over another 300 feet ect.

People have told me to use a 2 inch pipe

 

[fruitcakesa]

Poly pipe for sure; if you ever have to pull the pump, you will need a derrick and hoist to pull galvy pipe.

 

[aczlan]

If you're running a pump and you have any kind of shut off valve, you will need a bladder. Otherwise you could be spiking pressure at your pump and damaging it.

Aaron Z

 

[JimR]

158 feet of casing and crystal clear water which is uncommon for my area. Driller thinks I tapped into a spring.

Now I have to deal with the contract I signed authorizing them to use galvanized pipe. Didn't know at the time that poly pipe was really a better option.

They haven't installed anything and I'm assuming poly pipe is cheaper than galv steel so maybe I can talk them out of the steel.

Part of the contract also includes a bladder tank. I need the water at this point only to fill my 275 gall ibc totes so I can water the trees I'm planting. ( I have a truck/trailer/pump)

I don't plan to start the actual building process for a year or 2.

Do you guys think it wise to just put the bladder tank in storage for the time being rather than letting it sit out in the weather?

Water table is about 55 ft. Anything else I should consider installing? Might as well do it right the first time.

I need to get water down to the other end of my property eventually which is about 600 feet and then over another 300 feet ect.

People have told me to use a 2 inch pipe

I would hook up the tank and install it in a small shed or something so thieves do not steal it. I can't answer the casing question other than I never heard of them using that before, at least not up here in New England where we have lots of ledge to go thru. The first thing that I would do once it is hooked up and running is to make sure that your well does not run dry. I would run that well straight out wide open for as much as you can and I am not kidding. We built our house in the 70's. Our well is 565 feet deep. We were told and have paperwork that says it was pumping 5 gallons per minute for 3 hours. In the 80's two kids came along. There was more water usage, laundry, baths, showers, etc. A few times we noticed the water pressure dropping off to the point where we needed to shut the well off until the water level recovered. Then in the early 90's we got a lightning strike that blew the pump out. We had a pump company haul the pump unit out of the well. We found out that there was only 300 feet of pipe in the well. They also figured out that our static level was around 150 feet down. We now have 500 feet of pipe in the well and a bigger pump. We can still run that well out of water with not much more than normal usage. We are going to have it hydrofracted this Summer in hopes of fixing this issue or we are going to have to drill a new well. The moral of this long story is to make sure you got what you paid for. Down the road you will have no recourse on that expense.

 

[i7win7]

The steel casing prevents the hole caving in. The pump will have the poly pipe. Get a fiberglass tank and have it buried. You will have an above ground access to service the well pressure switch and an above ground pipe for well access. Some people have added a "simple pump" to the well access pipe.
This Simple Pump Will Blow Your Mind (Official Video) - YouTube

 

[nybirdman]

Poly pipe for sure with torque arrestors;you will need a bladder tank,pressure switch and check valve(above ground) to work properly.Protect with a simple well house for now(drain in winter if no using).All will be used in your permanent set-up.

 

[unimog_jason]

My father is the well driller in the family, not me, but based on what I've seen in the past you should be able to hang a standard submersible off of poly. I'm going to guess you are going to set the pump around 100', but that would be dependent on the flow rate of the well too. If you're flow is on the low side, I would think you would set the pump deeper to provide more reservoir capacity.

In most installs I've seen the pump is hung off some nylon rope to keep the strain off the wires and poly.

I've only heard of using steel pipe to hang a pump in cases where you're really deep (500') and you're installing a large pump.

From a service perspective, using poly make the job a lot easier, a single person could haul out a poly system by hand, if it's steel, you're going to need a service truck with hoisting gear.

If you're only filling IBCs, I wouldn't bother with a tank, I'd just take a line off the pitless adapter, apply power to the pump and when the tank is full, disconnect. When you're ready to connect to the house in the future, connect the house supply line to the pitless, wire in your pressure switch / control box and you're good to go.

Jason

 

[1930]

If you're running a pump and you have any kind of shut off valve, you will need a bladder. Otherwise you could be spiking pressure at your pump and damaging it.

Aaron Z

I did not know this. So whats difference between shut off valve and simply unplugging the gen that I'll be using to run the pump?

I would hook up the tank and install it in a small shed or something so thieves do not steal it. I can't answer the casing question other than I never heard of them using that before, at least not up here in New England where we have lots of ledge to go thru. The first thing that I would do once it is hooked up and running is to make sure that your well does not run dry. I would run that well straight out wide open for as much as you can and I am not kidding. We built our house in the 70's. Our well is 565 feet deep. We were told and have paperwork that says it was pumping 5 gallons per minute for 3 hours. In the 80's two kids came along. There was more water usage, laundry, baths, showers, etc. A few times we noticed the water pressure dropping off to the point where we needed to shut the well off until the water level recovered. Then in the early 90's we got a lightning strike that blew the pump out. We had a pump company haul the pump unit out of the well. We found out that there was only 300 feet of pipe in the well. They also figured out that our static level was around 150 feet down. We now have 500 feet of pipe in the well and a bigger pump. We can still run that well out of water with not much more than normal usage. We are going to have it hydrofracted this Summer in hopes of fixing this issue or we are going to have to drill a new well. The moral of this long story is to make sure you got what you paid for. Down the road you will have no recourse on that expense.

When they were digging my well they bent the casing approx 100 feet down. Negligence on their part in my opinion.

They told me they would run a liner the remaining depth which basically meant going down to a 3 inch casing.
LSS I told them no way and I'd fight it.

They ended up moving over 5 feet and starting all over again.

Morale is everyone has too be watched.

The steel casing prevents the hole caving in. The pump will have the poly pipe. Get a fiberglass tank and have it buried. You will have an above ground access to service the well pressure switch and an above ground pipe for well access. Some people have added a "simple pump" to the well access pipe.
This Simple Pump Will Blow Your Mind (Official Video) - YouTube

My contract is clear. Galvanized drop pipe

 

[WranglerX]

You need to think of the needs down the road a bit, go with plastic/PVC pipe... Galvanized is fine but will fail many years down the road where the plastic won't....As for tank.. If you just want a drink of water or run a small sprinkler it's probably a must... And probably cheaper to install now and do a "complete" setup then to piecemeal it down the road with little bits at a time.... And yes built the pump house and put tank and controls inside the shelter....

Dale

 

[WranglerX]

Poly pipe for sure; if you ever have to pull the pump, you will need a derrick and hoist to pull galvy pipe.

For ease of doing it for plastic too....

Dale