Oil & Fuel Kama Significant Oil Leak

[TheRedRider]

Checking for words of wisdom before I embark on a gigantic project. I have a kama 354 mounted with a 160 loader. Use it primarily to push dirt around my backyard motocross track - labor of love.

After about three years of light usage, recently I developed the mother of all oil leaks. Oil is practically gushing out between the enging block and bell housing. It appears the engine mounting bolts worked loose and I'm guessing that put pressure on the crank shaft and messed up the rear main seal? Just a guess.

I'm a Chevy / Ford car guy and this will be my first attempt at tractor work. My Kama manuals are practically unreadable and, of course, I have no engine manual to go with it. If anyone has a recommendation for parts and any comments I'd appreciate any insight.

Tony

 

[Affordable]

You are going to have to split the tractor (you know that),most of the time you will just need a new seal, flywheel gasket and some grade 8 bolts to replace the ones you take out of the flywheel housing.I recommend you use some red loctite on the bolts when you re-install them,if you have the TY395 engine we prob have the parts,if not Chip at Artrac should be able To

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

Is it the TS354C (4 cylinder) or TS354X (3 cylinder)? If the former, the YangDong Y85 engine manual is what you need. Regardless, you're going to have to split the tractor to remove the clutchpack and flywheel. Buy some bulk gasket material for new bellhousing gaskets, and some metric class 10.9 bolts (SAE grade 8 equivalent) to replace the OE bellhousing bolts

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

Why would you buy bulk gasket material and make gaskets when they are readly avaliable at multiple sources ??? That's crazy !!!!!!!!


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

Why would you buy bulk gasket material and make gaskets when they are readly avaliable at multiple sources ??? That's crazy !!!!!!!!

Because - in my 10 years of Chinese tractor experience - their cheap cork gaskets simply suck !! Damned things disintegrate in place. Plus - those that haven't already decomposed - tear like tissue paper when wet. I just got fed up replacing gaskets every bloody time I had to remove a cover or inspection plate.

So based upon observed p!$$-poor performance, I now steadfastly refuse to buy'em. I get comparatively inexpensive 18" rolls of bulk gasket material from NAPA. It may take a little more time to hand cut a gasket. But believe me - one competently cut gasket from the appropriate bulk material will outlast half a dozen of those lousy Chinese cork things.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

None of the gaskets he will need to do this job are cork ?,the OEM are paper gaskets.


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

None of the gaskets he will need to do this job are cork ?,the OEM are paper gaskets.

Jeez that's even worse. The OE gaskets I've obtained in the past at least look like cork. Maybe just sawdust and glue, who knows. Anyway - paper or cork - they're crap. Having said that, I enjoy the luxury of time (retired). Folks in a hurry to git-er-done are likely to be more amenable to pre-cut gaskets of any quality.

I'm not sure if you're interpreting my words as critical of your response or what. I have no problem with you retailing any kind of anything to anybody. After all, caveat emptor. My opening response merely offered advice to a fellow KAMA/TaiShan owner, based upon personal experience and opinion.But until RedRider identifies his engine, neither of us have any business speculating how many of what kind of gaskets he's going to have to deal with.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Neither the flywheel gasket nor the bellhousing gasket for my TY395 engine are cork. The bellhousing gasket is some sort of dense paper material and the flywheel gasket is a very dense, hard, possibly impregnated material that almost looks almost like asbestos other than the coloring (green).

I think one could easily enough duplicate the bellhousing gasket from bulk roll stock, but I'm not as sanguine about the prospects for duplicating the flywheel gasket material. It doesn't look much like anything in the way of bulk gasket material I've obtained in the past. It might not matter if I changed it to some other material, but since it does seal the block to flywheel housing area I'm going with the OEM gasket.

Rich

 

[Bob Rooks]

In addition to upgrading to class 10.9 bolts with Lock-Tite, I would strongly consider drilling the bolt heads and using safety wire.

 

[Rich Waugh]

That safety wire is a good idea, Bob! I'm in the process of doing this repair to my Jinma as we speak and I'll have to think about doing that.

When doing a safety wire job, is there a "best practice" method for doing it? I've only done it on my old desert racing bikes and I just drilled the bolt heads and ran a wire through them from one to the next, in a fashion where the bolt, were it to loosen, would have to stretch the wire so to speak. Is this a good way to do it or is there a better way? All the bolts with one wire or do them in pairs or other multiples? What's the best wire - in the past I used nichrome wire because it is what I had that was tough and not prone to rust. Something better?

Thanks for helping out,

Rich