Kawasaki Mule 610 drive pulley

[laurencen]

having issues with a Kawasaki Mule 610 drive, when stopping unless the shifter is in neutral it continues to creep, does not quite stall the motor but close if the brake is applied.

this is a new machine to me, it was a project so expected some work, took the belt off it was tight but is the correct one, the motor pulley is engaging and though slow it does release, took the driven pulley apart and the 3 plastic shoes are badly worn, on contacting the dealer there are 5 options, from 7.2mm to 7.8mm, measuring mine there is no where its close to any, dealer has no clue where to measure so anyone able to throw some light as to what this does?

next the manual shows the spring in hole number 2, there is 3 holes 1 thro 3, what does this change if number 1 or 3 is selected, it does change the shoe position relative to the cam and finally there are 2 bolts on the outside of the pulley, they thread in and protrude about 3 mm inside the housing, they contact a washer and hold the washer from sitting on the bottom of the housing, do they have another purpose?

seems these shoes are a couple weeks away, new shoes will prevent the pulley closing as much thus loosening the belt, just have to figure which ones to order

as usual any help is appreciated

 

[6string]

Here is a link to a YouTube video on 610 clutch rebuild, also may try KawieRiders forum.

 

[ruffdog]

Engine has the primary clutch and that drives the secondary with the belt. In the primary, the weights, arm shape, and spring all dictate how the primary shifts. The secondary also has spring tension/preload, and ramps that will change how the clutch shifts. Generally, the tighter the secondary feels (spring wind-up), the higher rpm the clutch shifts. Why would there be different adjustments? Well, one reason would be for high altitude operation where you would want it to be shifting at a higher rpm.

 

[ruffdog]

If the primary is not opening up all the way at idle, then it will rub the belt and will want to creep forward. Either the bushing is sticky or it is worn or has broken parts.

 

[ruffdog]

Ha! In this manual they call them pulleys.

Driven Pulley; Driven Pulley Removal; Driven Pulley Disassembly - Kawasaki MULE 610 4×4 Service Manual [Page 140]

 

[laurencen]

quick update, the shoes arrived, installed, set the driven 120 degrees and locked, the drive was dirty and a clean worked great moves freely now, installed the pulleys and belt, it was tight and not disengaging, remember the two bolts in the first picture, they control the amount the driven pulley can close, the washer was 2mm, without washer the pulley was way too open, took a 6mm machine bolt and cut it to the original bolt length plus 0.25mm, installed and works great.

this machine works so good it has 1100 hours, got another with 1800 hours so this will be the next project