Kawi Mule Idle Issues

[robertwhite]

Just picked up a '05 Mule 3010 (gas) with a bit under 100 hours.

Since it was never driven and sat in the guys garage and idled pretty crappy, I replaced the Oil & filter, gas filter, plugs. Air filter was fine so I left it. Removed gas tank, drained/flushed tank and replaced.

I replaced the oil with Valvoline 10w40 made for 4 strokes. Wix oil and gas filters, NGK BPR2ES plugs.

Start it up with full choke and it runs great, gradually push choke in and it idles crappy. I raised the idle screw at the carb and it runs much better, but then it grinds going into gear. Back it off enough to stop the grind and it idles crappy or stalls out. It also has a slight hesitation/stutter off idle when pressing the pedal quickly.

Idle screw on governor it set so that it just touches the arm at idle.

Had it where it idled pretty good and shut it off. Went to start it a little while later and it stalls right out

This is starting to drive me batty.

I am leaning towards there being crap in the carb.

I see a lot of posts regarding the carb jets getting crud on them and causing run issues and I think that is probably what is wrong here.

When you remove the carb and disassemble, clean, reassemble , do you need to replace any gaskets or are there none? If there are, is there a gasket set available from my local dealer?

If anyone has any ideas, please chime in.

 

[Dmace]

Your "idle jet" (sometimes called low speed jet) is clogged and the engine is not getting enough fuel at idle which is why it runs better with the choke on a little or the idle screw set higher. There are no gaskets on these little carbs so take it apart carefully one jet at a time and clean them with carb cleaner and compressed air (if available).

Also, when removing the air/fuel screw, count how many turns it is until the screw goes in all the way then remove it. This will help you set it back to the way it was before you remove it. If you forget or want to set it to the standard, just screw it in until it's lightly seated and then unscrew it 2 full turns. You can adjust after that if needed.

 

[robertwhite]

Thanks.

Biggest issue was if there are gaskets. Now that I know there are none, I will pull it and clean it. The cleaning/rebuild is no problem since I have had countless car carburetors apart for rebuild.

 

[Dmace]

Thanks.

Biggest issue was if there are gaskets. Now that I know there are none, I will pull it and clean it.

I stand corrected. I typically double check myself first but I just checked the parts diagram and they do list a gasket on the float bowl.

It looks like the typical round (O-ring type) rubber gasket that is reusable and only needs to be replaced if it becomes dried and cracked to the point of leaking. Since it sat for a while, it may be bad but I highly doubt it on a 4 year old vehicle. It also looks like you only have 2 jets (main and pilot) in which case the main is most likely the culprit but both should be cleaned.

Sorry for the confusion...

 

[robertwhite]

Actually, when I just pulled the carb, there are 2 other gaskets to worry about (11060C & 11060D). 1 between the case cover (32099) and carb and 1 between the carb and intake. Luckily, they didn't break. Still have to disassemble carb. Someone has been into it before as there was silicone around the big accordian hose that attaches to the case.


https://www.kawasakiepc.com/SystemS...Model&cGroupID=&CFID=3559880&CFTOKEN=18569916