Kioti RX7320 No Tailights

[ErnieR]

Hello all, bought myself a 2015 RX7320 open station with just over 300hrs on it and the original owner certainly looked after it because it looks like new.

Anyways, all lighting forward of the seat works perfect, but not so much on the back end. No running lights whatsoever and only left side double filament bulb delivers left signal. Double filament bulb on right side has one filament burnt out and without any wiring diagram available that I can find online I thought I’d reach out for help here. I did jump the seat safety switch but can’t see that having any I’ll effect on taillights tho

The rear marker/signal lights have an amber single filament that to me appears to be what used to be called an 1156 then the clear double filament bulb in the lower position has the offset lugs what I’d call the old school 1157, but they don’t seem to fit to test for power. Plus I’m not confident probing into these new style 4 pin water tight connectors because I don’t know power from grounds.

Service manuals aren’t even available up here in Canada and I hate the thoughts of what it would cost to have a dealer come pick it up repair it and haul it back 2hrs just for the sake of lights not working.

Thanks in advance

 

[ErnieR]

Anyone ??

 

[SwingOak]

I suppose you checked the fuses...

 

[Midniteoyl]

Hello all, bought myself a 2015 RX7320 open station with just over 300hrs on it and the original owner certainly looked after it because it looks like new.

Anyways, all lighting forward of the seat works perfect, but not so much on the back end. No running lights whatsoever and only left side double filament bulb delivers left signal. Double filament bulb on right side has one filament burnt out and without any wiring diagram available that I can find online I thought I’d reach out for help here. I did jump the seat safety switch but can’t see that having any I’ll effect on taillights tho

The rear marker/signal lights have an amber single filament that to me appears to be what used to be called an 1156 then the clear double filament bulb in the lower position has the offset lugs what I’d call the old school 1157, but they don’t seem to fit to test for power. Plus I’m not confident probing into these new style 4 pin water tight connectors because I don’t know power from grounds.

Service manuals aren’t even available up here in Canada and I hate the thoughts of what it would cost to have a dealer come pick it up repair it and haul it back 2hrs just for the sake of lights not working.

Thanks in advance

Probing the 4 pin connectors blind shouldn't matter, just check for power to ground (the chassis).. Not hard to probe the light sockets either, just a semi steady hand. Pin at the bottom is the positive, side negative.

Kinda surprised the left side blinker works. When I busted the right hazard off the rops, the left quit as well. Think its wired old school.

 

[SwingOak]

The brake light AND 4wd light come on in my 7320 when I step on the brakes, I don't think it's supposed to turn on the 4WD light, but haven't done anything to look into it.

I mention this because there's a possibility that there's some funky connections from the factory in your tractor, and maybe the previous owner never bothered to do anything.

And yes, just check power to ground with a meter or test light from the socket, won't hurt anything.

 

[ErnieR]

I suppose you checked the fuses...

First thing I checked yes

 

[ErnieR]

Probing the 4 pin connectors blind shouldn't matter, just check for power to ground (the chassis).. Not hard to probe the light sockets either, just a semi steady hand. Pin at the bottom is the positive, side negative.

Kinda surprised the left side blinker works. When I busted the right hazard off the rops, the left quit as well. Think its wired old school.

Do you mean, the Pin at the bottom of the socket or bulb position is positive ?? and yes being the sockets sit tucked in tight that why I was and always hesitant to go in the a probe because I usually have a tendency to pop a fuse haha

Surely me jumping that seat safety wouldn’t be part of that circuit failure ??

 

[ErnieR]

The brake light AND 4wd light come on in my 7320 when I step on the brakes, I don't think it's supposed to turn on the 4WD light, but haven't done anything to look into it.

I mention this because there's a possibility that there's some funky connections from the factory in your tractor, and maybe the previous owner never bothered to do anything.

And yes, just check power to ground with a meter or test light from the socket, won't hurt anything.

Let’s hope nothing funky going on similar to yours !!

What I’ll do is put some small shrink tube around my test probe and just leave the very tip exposed

Appreciate the help guys. I’ll get back with the results in the morning

 

[Midniteoyl]

Do you mean, the Pin at the bottom of the socket or bulb position is positive ?? and yes being the sockets sit tucked in tight that why I was and always hesitant to go in the a probe because I usually have a tendency to pop a fuse haha

Surely me jumping that seat safety wouldn’t be part of that circuit failure ??

Yes, pin(s)/pad(s) at the bottom of the socket. The socket itself is Neg (ground). If you touch both with the same probe, it could pop the fuse, so don't do that.

Also, that dual filament rear light might not be an 1157 if the light wont seat correctly, in which case one of the pads will also be negative.. Doubtful, but something to look for.

When you probe a connector, do not probe across 2 pins unless you know for sure one is Neg/Ground. Place the Neg probe on a chassis ground, like an exposed nut, or even the Neg side of the batery, and use the Pos probe to probe the connector pins. One at a time while turning on the lights, turn signals, and brake lights until you know they all work or not, at which point you'll also know which wire is for what and can trace those out if needed.

 

[ErnieR]

I couldn’t figure out what single and dual filament bulbs I had in this tractor because the stamping didn’t say 1156 and or 1157 although they sure looked like typical 1156/1157 and your photo confirmed they are just with different numbering.

What’s your thoughts on converting to LED in their place once I get this wiring figured out. OEM taillight bulbs say 21W/1156, and the stamping aren’t deep enough to make out the wattage for the 1157 but I figured finding the right LED might last longer, draw less amperage and be maybe brighter than the stock bulbs. But then again I don’t know for sure