toukow
Silver Member
Not sure the approach here is really unorthodox, because I don't really know what the orthodox approach is for this situation. One of the reasons I went with Kioti is Kubota told me I had to sell my 3- point mounted backhoe, and buy theirs for $7k or so. I probably have little use for a backhoe, but hey, I already owned it! The main issues were that the subframe is wider than my backhoe, and required taller backhoe 'side rails' than mine has.
I was over my head on this project to be honest, from both a designer standpoint, as well as welding skills. The first couple designs I tried I am sure you would have found humorous,and whenever I looked at the moment arm created by the subframe, I realized how inadequate my designs were. Feel free to criticize/critique as I want to learn from my mistakes (that comment is a 'tongue in cheek' joke, as having watched this forum for a while, I know most of us do not need permission to criticize!)
The upper and lower cross members are 6 wide, 1/2" thick flat bar. I had to cut the top one a bit, so reinforced with angle. I flipped around the 3 point top bracket mount, and made a new connection point for a top link which works well.
Lessons learned:
1. I should have tested the frame mount components first, without the backhoe attached to verify the fit. The front subframe bracket required hole modification to be parallel to the subframe interface bar.
2. It is one thing to fit the parts together, quite another to be able to adequately weld them due to space constraints. I could have designed better in this regard.
3. I meant to build in a bit of pre-tilt so that the backhoe was level once in place, but didn't at the last minute. It slopes slightly to the rear, but no big.
4. I failed to account for the additional 1/2" reinforcement on each side, so if the frame ever needs to come off the bolts will have to be cut. Then the nuts will have to be welded/secured on the inside to reinstall; hopefully it never comes to that while I'm walking the planet.
I also modified the backhoe steps by adding one at 12 inches, as the 24-inch original step was killing my knees. Not the best design, but for how little I'll be using it should be fine.
The saving grace given my welding skills is I'm using the top link to reduce the fore and aft rotational forces on the new cross members, unlike Kioti's approach. This is a new tractor, and I'm not sure if there is any leak down on the hydraulic top link, so have chosen to use a mechanical top link instead just to be safe.
I had scrap angle from buying a two-post lift, so used that to build a stand for the backhoe. It's covered with rubber horse stall pad to prevent slippage.
I've used it to dig out a stump and some other work. Seems to work fine so far. Obviously, time will tell....
For what it's worth, Toukow
I was over my head on this project to be honest, from both a designer standpoint, as well as welding skills. The first couple designs I tried I am sure you would have found humorous,and whenever I looked at the moment arm created by the subframe, I realized how inadequate my designs were. Feel free to criticize/critique as I want to learn from my mistakes (that comment is a 'tongue in cheek' joke, as having watched this forum for a while, I know most of us do not need permission to criticize!)
The upper and lower cross members are 6 wide, 1/2" thick flat bar. I had to cut the top one a bit, so reinforced with angle. I flipped around the 3 point top bracket mount, and made a new connection point for a top link which works well.
Lessons learned:
1. I should have tested the frame mount components first, without the backhoe attached to verify the fit. The front subframe bracket required hole modification to be parallel to the subframe interface bar.
2. It is one thing to fit the parts together, quite another to be able to adequately weld them due to space constraints. I could have designed better in this regard.
3. I meant to build in a bit of pre-tilt so that the backhoe was level once in place, but didn't at the last minute. It slopes slightly to the rear, but no big.
4. I failed to account for the additional 1/2" reinforcement on each side, so if the frame ever needs to come off the bolts will have to be cut. Then the nuts will have to be welded/secured on the inside to reinstall; hopefully it never comes to that while I'm walking the planet.
I also modified the backhoe steps by adding one at 12 inches, as the 24-inch original step was killing my knees. Not the best design, but for how little I'll be using it should be fine.
The saving grace given my welding skills is I'm using the top link to reduce the fore and aft rotational forces on the new cross members, unlike Kioti's approach. This is a new tractor, and I'm not sure if there is any leak down on the hydraulic top link, so have chosen to use a mechanical top link instead just to be safe.
I had scrap angle from buying a two-post lift, so used that to build a stand for the backhoe. It's covered with rubber horse stall pad to prevent slippage.
I've used it to dig out a stump and some other work. Seems to work fine so far. Obviously, time will tell....
For what it's worth, Toukow
