Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!!

[gacuri]

Can someone please help me with this question? My kitchen renovation may need to have a drain vent pipe relocated through few existing structural wood joists. Is that safe to do? The joists are 2x10 and the pipe is 1-1/2" the hole on the joist would be 2". Thanks!!!

 

[Aguanga]

Building a house right now, but I'm using TJI's which provide A LOT more flexibility with holes. In the past, i had always been told to use the one-third rule on conventional 2x joists. It meant not to drill within one-third of the ends of the joist lengthwise and not to drill in the top or bottom third of the joist.

Hopefully someone else can confirm or reject this...

 

[Timber]

Post a picture of the area lets see what your options are

 

[bobodu]

You'd be fine.

 

[davitk]

With solid lumber, the holes must be no closer than 2" from the top or bottom of the joist, and a maximum of 1/3 the joist depth (2x10 = 3 1/8" hole). Also, no notching in the middle 1/3 of the joist span.

KEEP AN EYE ON THOSE DARN PLUMBERS!!

 

[Charlesaf3]

With solid lumber, the holes must be no closer than 2" from the top or bottom of the joist, and a maximum of 1/3 the joist depth (2x10 = 3 1/8" hole). Also, no notching in the middle 1/3 of the joist span.

KEEP AN EYE ON THOSE DARN PLUMBERS!!

You've got your answer here.

Pay special attention to the stuff in all caps. I like to ask my plumber what the difference between a plumber and termites is - answer, termites tend to do much less structural damage.

 

[CurlyDave]

The answer is more complex than anything you have so far.

What is the span of the joist?

If you are near the maximum span for the joist, davitk's answer is good. If the span is less than maximum, you have considerably more leeway in the holes, notches, etc. that you can cut.

 

[Charlesaf3]

true, but without getting into engineering tables, davitks answer is a safe one.

 

[Whitey]

Without re-inventing the wheel I would say that if you are concerned about the hole size or it's location.....here is what I would do. You can add structural full depth bridging to both sides of the opening tying the punched joist to the joists at either side or.....you can make a cleat out of 3/4" plywood that spans 32" inches in either direction of the hole centered on both sides of the joist. Glue / screw it to reinforce the area then drill your hole. The plywood will help reinforce the area that is to be punched. Be sure to make the cleats large enough or they will be useless.

I recently added cleats to both sides of a purlin / hanging truss affair in my 100 year old shop so the ceiling would handle the weight of type X drywall, insulation and a USG ceiling grid. Worked great.

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP

 

[Cord]

With solid lumber, the holes must be no closer than 2" from the top or bottom of the joist, and a maximum of 1/3 the joist depth (2x10 = 3 1/8" hole). Also, no notching in the middle 1/3 of the joist span.

This is the text book perfect response.