KK gauge wheels

[ragman]

I went to Farm & Fleet to check on a set of gauge wheels for my rake. I have a Wallace rake, but wallace doesn't make a wheel kit. F & F can order a KingKutter wheel set, but they are not sure if the wheels have greese fittings on the axles and spindle. Anybody out there have a clue if they come with greese fittings or not. They quoted a price of 155.00 plus 18.00 shipping to the store.

 

[hockeyhead]

All I can say is my rotory and finish cutters have grease zerks at spindles and axles. Maybe check their sight for more imformation


KK products

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Just give King Kutter a call and ask them. You might want to make sure you're talking to someone there who really knows, though. In my experience it seems like that phone can be answered by anyone near it when it rings.

Good luck. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> not sure if the wheels have greese fittings on the axles and spindle </font>

Yes and yes.

Also, the wheels have a valve stem, but the tires are made of very stiff rubber/plastic(?). Can't imagine ever needing to fill them.

The price at TSC stores in my vicinity ranged from $142-$185 + shipping/tax. For TSC, the wheel kit is a special order item, and some stores can sell them cheaper than others. Can post a picture if you're interested.

OkieG

 

[ragman]

Thanks to all for the replies. Yes, a picture would be great.

 

[OkieG]

Here's the panoramic view.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Close-up of wheel and yoke assembly. Both the wheel axle zerk and the pivot shaft zerk are in this picture. Have to look close to see 'em though. 3 spacers are included for each wheel. In this pic there are 2 below and 1 above the support arm.
I checked today, and the tire does give a little when I press hard with my thumb, but is quite firm. The air filler valve is on the opposite side of the wheel from the zerk. It just feels like stiff material to me, but maybe they came already filled with air??

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

This is the mounting bracket. The bolt holes are 2" center to center. Longer bolts come with the kit. It just bolts over one of the tines, in existing holes.

OkieG

 

[ragman]

Thanks so much for the pictures and info. I can't get this kind of service from my local implement dealers! It looks like a nice set-up. I'll order it the next time I go to Farm & Fleet. (seems like I'm there at least twice a week for something) Thanks again.

 

[OkieG]

To me, the kit seems pretty well built. I'm tempted to order another set and use it for certain situations on the front end of my brush hog. Still thinking about that one.
Good luck with your rake.

OkieG

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm tempted to order another set and use it for certain situations on the front end of my brush hog. )</font>

Stabilizer chains are stronger and cheaper Okie. Take a look at these
mower deck height stabilizers
//greg//

 

[Henro]

OkieG,

I also want to put some gage wheels on my KK rake.

Thanks for taking the time to post those pictures.They will be a great help if I decide to fabricate something myself... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[BrettW]

Greg,
I'm getting a 44" hog very soon. Why do you need stablilizers? Is it not good enough to have it just on the normal 3 pt? thanks,bw

 

[OkieG]

Greg,
What an interesting looking device. Thanks for the link. I have trouble concecptualizing exactly what the chains do. I was considering gauge wheels on the front of the brush hog for better terrain following, kind of like the wheels and rollers you often see on the front of finish mower decks.

Most of the time I don't care if the cutter scalps a bit or runs high over dips. My thought is that gauge wheels might allow a closer cut with less scalping and better cutting in the dips. Don't need that everywhere I cut, but I have one spot where I'm looking for a little more manicured result.

Do you use the chains? What do they do for you?

OkieG

 

[greg_g]

I bought one set for my Jinma and its 5' rotary cutter. Jinma hydraulics were notorious for never staying where they belonged, plus there was no draft control. A pair of slotted brackets attach on either side of the toplink (tractor end). One chain goes on each lift pin (implement end). Raise the hydraulics past your desired cutting height, put the chains in the tractor end slots, lower hydraulics. Nose of mower will never dip lower than the length of the chains. It can go up, but not down.

My KAMA has draft control, but I use the chains anyway. Plus, I had three more sets made up at the local welding shop. I still use the original tractor end brackets, but now have four sets of chains to spread around on my implements. I've used them on rear blades with success, and they were indispensible on the Yanmar's rear PTO driven MMM. I also plan to experiment with them on the box blade and rock rake (although I'm leaning more toward gauge wheels for the rake).

//greg//