Ronny_Clark
New member
Anybody change out all the fluids in their 454 yet? Was wondering about drain points and amounts to buy. Also what weight oils and types to buy?
KM 454 - change out all the fluids
- Thread starter Ronny_Clark
- Start date
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greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
I've done the engine oil and the hydraulics. The dirt floor in my shed need to dry out some before I get to the gears.
There are TWO drain plugs on the oil pan, one on either side of the front driveshaft housing. I refilled with Shell Rotella-T 15W40. The oil breather filter is where I put the fresh oil in. Clean the filter in diesel fuel and set aside. The location of the fill point is very inconvenient, and the oil has to make two 90 degree turns to get in. It's very easy to overflow the fill neck if you pour too quickly. It gets heavy pouring that slow, so consider gallon containers or smaller.
One drain plug at the rear of the hydraulic reservior. When it's empty, open the hydraulic filter housing and check/clean the screen. Take care to get a good seal when you reassemble the housing, or you'll lose a lot of new hydraulic fluid as soon as the pump starts drawing from the reservior. Mine was clean, so I didn't flush. But you might want to draun the fluid through some cheesecloth or something. The amount of crud (or lack of) should help you make the flush determination. I refill with AW32 hydraulic fluid, it may also be marked as ISO32.
I also had to flush the fuel tank, it kept filling up the sediment bowl with crud. The fuel filter was badly in need of replacement too.
There are two 5 gal buckets of Shell Spirax HD 80W90 waiting for when conditions are right to change the gear oil. And I'll get to the cooling system in the spring.
//greg//
There are TWO drain plugs on the oil pan, one on either side of the front driveshaft housing. I refilled with Shell Rotella-T 15W40. The oil breather filter is where I put the fresh oil in. Clean the filter in diesel fuel and set aside. The location of the fill point is very inconvenient, and the oil has to make two 90 degree turns to get in. It's very easy to overflow the fill neck if you pour too quickly. It gets heavy pouring that slow, so consider gallon containers or smaller.
One drain plug at the rear of the hydraulic reservior. When it's empty, open the hydraulic filter housing and check/clean the screen. Take care to get a good seal when you reassemble the housing, or you'll lose a lot of new hydraulic fluid as soon as the pump starts drawing from the reservior. Mine was clean, so I didn't flush. But you might want to draun the fluid through some cheesecloth or something. The amount of crud (or lack of) should help you make the flush determination. I refill with AW32 hydraulic fluid, it may also be marked as ISO32.
I also had to flush the fuel tank, it kept filling up the sediment bowl with crud. The fuel filter was badly in need of replacement too.
There are two 5 gal buckets of Shell Spirax HD 80W90 waiting for when conditions are right to change the gear oil. And I'll get to the cooling system in the spring.
//greg//
bluechip
Veteran Member
Ronny, I don't remember if got a loader on your tractor, if so it is possilbe that you have a return line using the place where the drain plug used to be on the hydraulic tank. In any event the drain is at the right (seated on the seat facing forward) side at the back and in the lower corner. Your dealer sources loaders from a couple different vendors so I cant say for sure how its plumbed. Be sure to hit the front axle, drain at bottom of differential and each of the two outer steering knuckles.
The cooling system was filled with fresh 50/50 mix anti-freeze so should be good for a full year.
The cooling system was filled with fresh 50/50 mix anti-freeze so should be good for a full year.