Knowledgeable JD Sales People

rf33 · Oct 20, 2001

I agree that the MX7 is a heavy cutter, but I think that unless you have a heavily treed of otherwise tricky area to cut, that leaving the loader on is fairly harmless. I sometimes take the quick attach bucket off if I have tight areas to get into. I do not think that loaded front tires would be enough counterweight without the loader frame. I know that my 5520 MFWD feels very light in the front end (even with my 12.4X24 tires filled with antifreeze) when I pick up my MX8 lift type cutter. If you have alot of turning to do and need the extra manuverability (sp?) of not having the loader attached, then I agree that a lighter cutter would be better, but if you can leave the loader frame on, and simply detach the bucket, I would stick with the MX series, as they seem really bulletproof. Anyways, just my .02

rf33

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Anonymous Poster · Oct 21, 2001

For theory sakes, let's disregard any 3-pt attachments for a moment... According to John Deere's implement code system:

How many quik-tatch weights is the mounted 521 loader = {to}?

How many quik-tatch weights is the mounted 541 msl loader equal to?
________________
My new 7' Brown rotary cutter works just fine, the JD5205 has plenty of PTO hp to run it, just borderline light in the front end in transport mode. {1375 lbs. weight of implement w/o chains}

Upon examining the clearance of the front nose of the tractor and loader frame in the "rest" position, it appears to have plenty of room for the quik-tatch weights with the loader attached... what is John Deere's line of reasoning on NOT recommending front weights with the loader attached... clearance doesn't appear to be the issue...?

Most people use a loader to clear the path while brush hogging as well as for ballast... so I don't quite understand JD's way of thinking here?

Cornhuskerdeere, could you please expand on that...?

brad_oatley · Oct 21, 2001

Thanks for your offer to help.
My tractor is a 790 with 70 quik-tach loader. No connecticut dealer has been able to answer this question.
I want to buy the front blade, 380a I believe.
Can the mounts for the loader and plow coexist simultaneously on the tractor so I could pull up to either implement and "quik-tach" without bolting or unbolting anything?
What width blade, fully angled, will be wider than the tire tracks?
Could I buy the plow through you?

Bird · Oct 21, 2001

<font color=blue>what is John Deere's line of reasoning on NOT recommending front weights with the loader attached... clearance doesn't appear to be the issue...?</font color=blue>

Of course I don't know, but I'd take a wild guess that they may be figuring that if you leave the loader on, you might also use it, and if you start picking up maximum loads in the loader, you'd put quite a lot of weight and stress on the front axle and tires.

Bird

treeboone · Oct 21, 2001

deere4600, It sounds like you have owned a bunch of 4000 series, I would like to hear about this! Are you not happy with them, or can you afford to buy them at will? Being on my second tractor in 14 years, I am envious.

deere4600 · Oct 21, 2001

Treeboone, I'm actually broke. I keep my tractors in nice condition. They are bathed and waxed regularly. The tractors are serviced exactly on time. When I trade, the mower is cleaned and the blades are sharpened. Basically, the dealers are able to move the tractor to the lot immediately. Fortunately, the market for low hour, used compact tractors is strong in my area. There are also about 6 or 7 JD dealers within a 25 mile radius so they tend to compete for the business. I also try to help the dealer sell my previous tractor. I work with several people who are looking for tractors and want to know when I am trading and where. I also tend to purchase other items at the JD dealership that tends to push the dealer to treat me well at trade time. I can't say it is cheap to trade every year and I probably would have waited another year to trade the 4600. But I like the size of the mid size frame of the 4300-4400. The 4600 is powerful and smooth running tractor. But around my place the 4400 is a nicer fit. I like having the tractor under warranty. It allows me to sleep a little better when I read about hydro and rearend problems. Now, another problem looms in the future. The 4000 ten series is coming. I doubt I will be able to resist a new 4410 with the new electro controlled Hydro. My wife thinks I'm crazy. I think she will have to learn to live with my addiction.

Hillbilly · Oct 22, 2001

Welcome Cornhuskerdeere,
It is always good to see someone with your experience come our way!!!!!!

Cornhuskerdeere · Oct 22, 2001

Depending on which tire configuration you have, probably a 60" would work fine. To answer your question about quick-tatch for the blade, nothing from Deere exists. The 380A blade is heavy and sometimes difficult to attatch. My suggestion would be to purchase a Curtis blade for the tractor, and they sell quick-tatch brackets for the blade. Then the blade could be switched around quickly and still keep the loader mounted. The Curtis blade isn't cheap--a 5' power angle one sells for $1495 plus shipping, and the quick-tatch sells for $260. Then you would have about another $300-$400 in labor and hoses to make it work. I have only installed these on 4000-5000 series tractors, so I would have to check with Curtis for fit recommendations.

I hope this helps you.