Kohler cv23 runs for few minutes then dies

[thepumpguysc]

I'm w/ you jaxz.. I was reading the 1st post & thought the exact same thing as u..
The sol. voltage should not vary.. it allows the fuel in when energized & stops the flow when not energized..
U can run a "hot wire" off of the battery, straight to the solenoid w/2 alligator clips & THEN check the voltage till it stops.. IF it stops..

 

[jjpalermo]

Jaxs- I was wondering about that precise thing as I was watching the voltage being applied to the solenoid- WHY is it varying if it's just supposed to be a cutoff? I narrowed the problem down to this point- I know for a fact that the solenoid switch itself is good because the entire carb is brand spanking new (it came in the mail Wednesday and I just installed it on Thursday), so it must be getting closed because the signal to it is intermittent- that's the only way the thing could possibly die when the governor has the throttle wide open and the (brand new) electric fuel pump is definitely supplying fuel to the carb. . Anyway, that's how I "fixed" it- by running another lead off the positive battery terminal and adding (yet another) switch to the dashboard of the mower- NOW it will run all day long, since the full 12 volts is applied to the solenoid valve until I switch it off. I didn't have time to tear the engine further apart to follow the lead from the solenoid back to the key switch, but I always thought there was some other component between the key and solenoid and that must be what is failing... however the schematic does not appear to show any other component governing the solenoid voltage. Could the voltage drop-off which occurs only at full running temp be caused by worn wiring or a bad connection, in your opinion? Because whenever I've had that kind of problem in the past, usually the connection is working or completely severed- this voltage drop down to 8v and then to 3 or 4 volts, then going back to 12v when the engine is cold again... is just bizarre.

 

[jaxs]

jjpal,I'm glad to hear the problem has been isolated and I will answer the questions of why and what,but first I'd like to say something on behalf of those who replied on this. Thank you for letting us know how this turned out. I can't tell you how important it is for us to hear whether our advice only got someone in more trouble than they already had or if it actually helped them. We don't need a pat on the head,we just need to know when advice was understood or was ambiguous.
As for your question of how or why voltage was fluctuating for no apparent reason. Electric current doesn't have moody days or wild notions,it behave's in a predictable way EVERY day,EVERY time. When it suprises us,we need only to take the knowns about the circuit and run simple tests to find what is amiss. E-V-E-R time we try discussing a problem with lights,ignition,battery or starter,some smart *** attempt's to lead us into AC current and/or electronics. That is nothing but strutting and preening to show what they know. I will say here and now,understanding DC current is all one need's to work on tractors,trucks,cars,motorcycles and for the most part,home appliances and wireing. It is with that understanding,we talk about the inconsistent voltage you observed. If you follow both wires from solenoid back to - & + battery posts,odds are 99% you find loose conection,corrosion between connection or broken wire making intermitting connection(likely with corrosion at break). Following - back to - battery post often lead's to a connection to frame or engine block. Just test that connection and battery cable connection to frame and battery post. Keep in mind all those can and do occur INSIDE switches as often as at mechanical connections. In this case,the fault is in + wire but the effect is the same on -side. If you are not content using the newly installed switch,here's tips that might help locate fault. First suspect is ignition switch. Make sure connections are clean and tight. See if wire is broken inside jacket. To test guts in switch,hook one lead of volt meter to ground and other lead to terminal feeding solenoid. Run engine using new wire and switch while watching for volt variance on meter. Hopefully what you experienced with this help's with future electric grimlins.

 

[off2mow]

I had a similar issue with my Gt3000 Sears machine. after 13 years. Started with fuel filter and one or two fuel lines, then progressed to plugs and coils. after finding a post about the fuel line, I found a few sections I didn't replace. I ordered the exact fuel line and discovered the issue was old fuel line at the front of machine under the carb. Once I replaced the short sections, my issue went away. After the machine warms up, it was constricting the fuel intake on the inside of normal looking rubber. You need exact hose diameters (original p/n) or the flow may still get restricted when it warms up. I hope this helps you !