Kubota 245H wiring harness woes

[Mike Madison]

Hi Good People. I have a Kubota 245H high clearance cultivating tractor that is giving me fits. Sometimes it cranks, sometimes it doesn't. If it cranks, it starts right up. Battery is good. It has new battery cables bolted down tight. Newer starter motor works fine when it cranks. Safety switch on the clutch checks out. Starter switch and ignition switch seem to be okay. This tractor spent most of its life cultivating strawberries next to the pacific ocean, and there is a lot of corrosion. The wiring harness is the squirreliest thing I ever saw--bundles of little 20 gauge wires running all over the place, many of them cut or disconnected, all of it wrapped up in about 500 yards of electrical tape. Six wires come out of the alternator (wiring diagram shows 4). It looks like much of the wiring harness was duplicated in the past without removing the original.
I'm thinking of tearing it all out and putting in a Delco one-wire alternator with built in voltage regulator. I would add an ammeter and a new 4 position switch (glow plug, off, run, start). This gets me from 80 wires down to about five. I expect to have to fabricate brackets for the alternator.
Before I jump into this, I would appreciate any words of wisdom that you would like to share.

Thanks

 

[Fuddy1952]

My 2 cents... you're on the right track. Otherwise I'm thinking you'll forever have problems. Your simplicity idea is what I would do. Just get rid of all that junk wire mess. Start fresh keeping simple as possible. I'd probably want a key switch.
I like wire loom to run wires through, zip tied along.

 

[Fuddy1952]

My 2 cents... you're on the right track. Otherwise I'm thinking you'll forever have problems. Your simplicity idea is what I would do. Just get rid of all that junk wire mess. Start fresh keeping simple as possible. I'd probably want a key switch.
I like wire loom to run wires through, zip tied along.

Oh... I'd have a fuse close to battery in line for everything except starter of course...20 amp probably about right.

 

[Dave M7040]

Hi Good People. I have a Kubota 245H high clearance cultivating tractor that is giving me fits. Sometimes it cranks, sometimes it doesn't. If it cranks, it starts right up. Battery is good. It has new battery cables bolted down tight. Newer starter motor works fine when it cranks. Safety switch on the clutch checks out. Starter switch and ignition switch seem to be okay. This tractor spent most of its life cultivating strawberries next to the pacific ocean, and there is a lot of corrosion. The wiring harness is the squirreliest thing I ever saw--bundles of little 20 gauge wires running all over the place, many of them cut or disconnected, all of it wrapped up in about 500 yards of electrical tape. Six wires come out of the alternator (wiring diagram shows 4). It looks like much of the wiring harness was duplicated in the past without removing the original.
I'm thinking of tearing it all out and putting in a Delco one-wire alternator with built in voltage regulator. I would add an ammeter and a new 4 position switch (glow plug, off, run, start). This gets me from 80 wires down to about five. I expect to have to fabricate brackets for the alternator.
Before I jump into this, I would appreciate any words of wisdom that you would like to share.

Thanks

Go with Denso one wire. Even GM uses Denso now.

$53 on ebay for 35 amp. This brand is smaller than the Delco so much easier to fit to tractor.

CHEVY MINI ALTERNATOR DENSO STREET ROD RACE 1-WIRE - 35 AMP! | eBay

Run one 10 gauge wire from Denso terminal to starter solenoid battery terminal. Job done.

If you want to know charging voltage buy an independent voltage display.

$10 gets you this one on ebay. There are cheaper prices but much longer delivery.

Digital Voltage Volt Meter Auto Motorcycle LED Panel DC 2V-24V Display 3 Colors | eBay

Added benefit is that you get to watch cranking voltage as well which warms of pending battery problems.

Dave M7040

 

[sixdogs]

I've had wiring issues over the years on both gas and diesel and have found it's easier to just rip it out and start from scratch. I've wired several cars with simple electronics in less time and with better results than it would take to try to patchwork fix the problem. I like your idea to keep it simple.

For fabricating brackets, check the simple streetrod type brackets from places like Speedway Motors. Their universal brackets maybe didn't fit exactly but were a good starting point. Also, lots of Kubota stuff from similar models is surprisingly interchangeable and lots of it is on EBAY.

 

[Mike Madison]

Go with Denso one wire. Even GM uses Denso now.

$53 on ebay for 35 amp. This brand is smaller than the Delco so much easier to fit to tractor.

CHEVY MINI ALTERNATOR DENSO STREET ROD RACE 1-WIRE - 35 AMP! | eBay

Run one 10 gauge wire from Denso terminal to starter solenoid battery terminal. Job done.

If you want to know charging voltage buy an independent voltage display.

$10 gets you this one on ebay. There are cheaper prices but much longer delivery.

Digital Voltage Volt Meter Auto Motorcycle LED Panel DC 2V-24V Display 3 Colors | eBay

Added benefit is that you get to watch cranking voltage as well which warms of pending battery problems.

Dave M7040

Thank you! Good advice-I'm on it.

 

[WranglerX]

If you start over with wiring besure to clean very well any terminals you can not replace with small wire brush and protect with dielectric grease.... BEFORE ARGUMENT STARTS... Dielectric grease seals terminals so moisture and oxygen can not cause corrosion, and IF YOU HAVE GOOD MECHANICAL connections the argument of dielectric grease being insulative is moot ... I also put it on wire ends before crimping terminals on wires... I have used dielectric compounds for 38 years in all power connections in my career as telecommunications technician and on all my auto and tractor wiring for more years then I can remember (even on yard sprinkler system connections) .... When I bring brand new vehicles home and first thing I do is clean battery terminal and cable ends and apply dielectric grease, I DO NOT HAVE any battery/cable corrosion issues (yes grease will collect dirt- but it's a "pretty" issue not a functional issue)...

Or...

The tools you use for making new harness/loom are important too, best to get ratcheting crimp tools with changeable dies (jaws) and get good name brand terminal end from good supplier ( T&B or Carol by brand names) stay away for local auto parts pegboard chinese crap....I go to places listed below for best stuff I can get....

Waytek | 12V Electrical Components Distributor
Del City - Electrical Supplies & Professional Grade Wiring Products

As for alternator, one wire internally regulated is super, but skip ammeter (to complex to wire) and go with VOLT METER once you understand voltage display it give better indication of vehicles electrical system condition..

Dale

 

[shootemup604]

I was having a similar issue - replaced the ignition switch, the battery, solenoid, starter - then clued and went back to basics. New ground cable and clamp and good connection to the frame - solved the problems.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Just my two cents worth. I have repaired a lot of stuff and failed on somethings for other people. I think, it's important to find out what is the problem if you can.

I have seen too much of that "just replace it, or everything" mentality. Or often it's a case of replacing something simply because THEY can't understand it. Now you have something that no one can assist with the repair because it's not OEM or done to OEM standards. And replacing good OEM water tight connections with Mechanics crimp connectors on stuff that wasn't even defective. Then they are so pleased with themselves because they got it running, but really ruined it.

Also, using "poke through the insulation" type testers can lead to future trouble.

 

[Fuddy1952]

Lots of good suggestions here, but I still go by what he said...

"This tractor spent most of its life cultivating strawberries next to the pacific ocean, and there is a lot of corrosion. The wiring harness is the squirreliest thing I ever saw--bundles of little 20 gauge wires running all over the place, many of them cut or disconnected, all of it wrapped up in about 500 yards of electrical tape"...

So I'm sticking with 1) remove battery 2) get a big trash can and wire cutters, throw all the wiring, tape in trash! 3) it's an older small simple tractor...keep it simple...be sure what's left (lights, coil, distributor, starter) are all ok or fix/replace. 4) that 1 wire alternator, new wire-proper gauge, dielectric grease, proper crimpers & connectors...all great. 5) if you can fabricate an alternator bracket from junk yard should be cheap & work, you may have to weld/drill etc. Should be easy. 6) use good switches, that voltmeter is ok...keep it all simple. 7)reinstall battery
No more electric problems!