KUBOTA BALLAST BOX"QUESTION"

[512high]

Hi Everyone,
Im new to the field of tractors...but learning"slow"..lol, I have a 2006 Kubota L-4330HSTC(used for snow removal only), I just purchased a Kubota Ballast Box for it, have not "loaded" yet, my questions are below.

1.) The box is "raised" as high as the hydrulics will allow, seems level, but if i push on the left or right side, there is a little swing movement....is this normal?

2.) my shop floor is level, but when i measure the bottom of the box on each side, to the floor...one side is off 1.5", and does look a little cockeyed...any ideas?

thanks,

Philip

 

[Ductape]

I like my implements fairly snug on the back. I would attemp to adjust the side links so there is very little slop in them.

As far as one side being lower than the other........... you can adjust this on the right side, with the threaded, or ratchet style adjuster ( whichever your tractor came with).

 

[512high]

ductape, thanks for the quick reply, sidelinks ? are those the lower "arms" with chains that hold a "pin" through slotted holes? there is a "arm or small crank" if looking behind loader, right side,?

thanks

 

[arsenix2001]

Yes your side links are the bars with pins, adjust those as tighlty as possible, once filled the bb will be very heavy and you dont want it banging around. The threaded link on the side is what you should adjust to get it to sit level side to side.

 

[512high]

the treaded "link"?, well what i have is an arm that is threaded on both ends,one end attatchs to the ballast box in the middle, the other end goesto an upper pin in tractor, that made it level, however i see a "handle/crank" in the rear not sure what that does.

as for play, it swings about 1" perside, and again alittle cockeyed, one end is higher then the other by an inch or two.

philip

 

[crazyal]

If you look at the 3 pt hitch from the rear the right lower arm is adjustable. Each lower link has a rod going down to about the middle, the one on the right is adjustable, the one on the left is not. That adjustment levels your attachment side to side.

My tractor is slightly newer so it may not be the same but on mine there's a square tube that slides up and down on the rod connected to the right lower link. You need to slide it up and then you can turn it to adjust the length of the rod. You will need to do it with no weight on the 3 pt hitch as that will make it hard to turn. You'll be able to adjust the cockeyed out of it.

If your still not sure I can take a picture of mine.

 

[PHILIP8N]

512High, you need to get your manual out and read it. Instructions for adjustable side link and sway bars with pictures and descriptions are in there. As for not being level, should just be able to adjust your side link to level up, if not, you will need to look at further. The 3 point attachment system has some play in it. Everything is held on by swivel joints, holes, and pins. It is not 'super' tight like you bolted everything together. Side to side movement is expected, but you can minimize that using the holes and not the slots in your swaybars. I would also think the higher you have your ballast box, the more sway you would have. I do not lift my 1250 pound ballast box all the way up, only high enough to get the job done. Right in the middle of the 1st picture is the adjustable side link. It is a sqarish box with 2 small handles that has the theads on the top and bottom. As you turn this, the link gets shorter or longer, and is used to level out your 3 point as required. Same picture to the right is your swaybar, you will have a left and a right. Pull the pins out of the hole to help you hook up to implements, and to adjust the width of the spread. These should be symetrical. If you want less play, use the holes instead of the slots. Philip.

 

[512high]

Thank you Philip! And all the others that have also responded, I did pull out my owners manual this morning, and looking from the rear of the loader, that "hand crank", did the trick! No longer cockeyed!! and yes there is a little sway from left to right but not much, in fact as soon as this box is filled, im sure it wont be moving that easy,again thank you to all, this site is great!!! Yes i'm new at this but learning from all of you! again thank you to all

philip

 

[PHILIP8N]

I assume your box is empty now? What till you get 500 to 1200 pounds in it, it will go from side to side on uneven ground and you will feel it. Nothing to be concerned about, just a fact of inertia. Snow plowing this has never been an issue because I plow a blackdrop driveway. But when doing FEL work off road, you can feel it behind you. Philip.

 

[512high]

last question Philip! I've heard guys load theirs with "lead", then cement, some just cement, others old weight lifting plates, ete, etc,etc. Any advice?

thanks

 

[art]

I think I've seen just about anything that is heavy used! Concrete, sand, stones, steel, it really doesn't make to much difference unless you might like to use it for something else from time to time.

 

[Kaizer Peas]

Please excuse my ignorance but why is a ballast box needed?

 

[crazyal]

What size tractor do you have? I use a 55 gallon drum full to the top with cement, it's a little over 1000lbs. The larger the tractor the more weight you'll want. Some people will put PVC tubes into the box so it leaves a void that they can slide the handle of things like shovels into them so they can carry them easier.

Do you know if your tires are filled with fluid for weight? If not you can call up and ask how much it would cost to fill them. They will give you a price (and here's the important part) they will also give you how much weight it will add. If nothing else you can use that as a guide as to how much weight you'll want to put into the box. If the tires are filled you'll probably want to put less weight in the box.

 

[Kaizer Peas]

Please excuse my ignorance but why is a ballast box needed?
I had a 770 John Deere that I loaded the bucket with gravel or snow and with no ballast box this very light tractor never had an issue with the rear getting light. Is the rear getting light the issue?

 

[crazyal]

Please excuse my ignorance but why is a ballast box needed?

Do you mean vs filling the tires with something like Rim guard or do you just mean in general? If you mean using a ballast box instead of filling the rear tires it's so you can remove the weight when needed, say working on a lawn or some other soft ground where the weight isn't needed. Secondly the box adds the weight further back so it actually removes weight from the front axle.

If your question was why add weight then most (if not all) tractors do not have enough rear weight and when using the front loader you can easily lift the rear wheels off the ground. Weight also adds traction so when using a box blade or some other sort of ground engaging equipment it helps keep the wheels from spinning.

 

[PHILIP8N]

last question Philip! I've heard guys load theirs with "lead", then cement, some just cement, others old weight lifting plates, ete, etc,etc. Any advice?

thanks

Lead? That is a new one on me. Lots of opinons here and lots of info if you search previous threads. Not sure which ballast box you have, but I have the Kubota L8170. With the box, about thirteen 80 pound bags of concrete, and water, my box weighs +/- 1250 pounds. Last thing I did was paint top Kubota orange! That's pretty heavy, heavy enough for my needs, but could be increased with other materials of higher density if required. I caulked mine on the inside first to minize leaking, and filled mine flush so I would not have to worry about freezing. Philip.

 

[TripleR]

Please excuse my ignorance but why is a ballast box needed?
I had a 770 John Deere that I loaded the bucket with gravel or snow and with no ballast box this very light tractor never had an issue with the rear getting light. Is the rear getting light the issue?

Crazyal pretty much covered it. We have one tractor that can get by with just loaded tires, but the rest do much better with loaded tires and ballast on the back.

You can add enough ballast on the 3 point in the form of a ballast box or other implement to give you good weight distribution. Your manual should make reference to this.

I like loaded tires as on our hill farms, loaded tires seem to make them more stable on side hills.

 

[bigdad]

Look over some of the threads the guys have submitted with their ballast boxes that have been adapted to carry tools etc. All done before they loaded them with concrete etc. Very ingenious adaptations. I personally like the idea of HD dollies on the bottom so I can move it around when not in use.

I guess what I am saying is........ look around some before you fill up with weight.

 

[Buster57]

"I guess what I am saying is........ look around some before you fill up with weight."

Well one more for my 'dumb question' category...should I buy a Kubota Ballast Box or make my own? The 1000 pound version-may or may not be the L8170- cost $450. That seems high for a steel box.

Is it worth it?

I was thinking of crating apples or pears with it. Heck-it may end up being an extremely expensive cat box for my 4.5 cats!

My "some day soon" to be delivered L3940 will have a HD bucket (probably the finest beer cooler on earth). At times it will be used to move 3/4-, so I can make a mess and see how much my sig-other can yell. I do live on a really tough hill so I have bio-balast in the tires. The ballast box seems like a good overall utility idea. I will not have to use my really expensive rototiller or flail and can hold extra beer & ice. Great for the church

 

[MarkV]

Buster the ballast box is just a container. You can make your own with either a garbage can, 30 gal. or 55 gal. drum.

MarkV