Kubota g1900 Cranks but wont turn over

[celwood]

Hello,

Hoping someone can help as my model cant be towed to get it on a trailer.
Unit cranks but wont start.
Replaced battery, replaced rectifier (what the dealership told me to do but didnt solve problem), i get ~ 7 volts at glow plugs when cranking but nothing in on position. Glow plug dash light doesnt work and never has since i have owned it. Its not see voltage in on position. Fuel solenoid doesnt see any voltage in on position. Glow plugs all show about .9 ohms.

Is it the control box? how do you test it to know?

Really appreciate any help that is offered.

 

[Baby Grand]

Will it start with jumper cables? I once bought a new battery for an old SAAB, but the battery wouldn't hold a charge. Spent a very frustrating, bitter cold day in February, on the street in the south end of Bridgeport
checking out alternator, voltage regulator, grounds, terminal connections, etc. Took the battery back and problem solved, but not before learning that a new battery doesn't necessarily mean a good battery.
If it won't jump start, then get a multi-meter and try using it to nrrow down root cause:
http://delcoremy.com/documents/diagnostic-manual.aspx

 

[celwood]

It doesnt start with a jump either. I used the multimeter to get to the point where i am now.
Thanks for responding and posting that handy manual.

 

[Baby Grand]

Fusible link?
Had to replace one on our G5200H.
If your tractor's the same as ours, it's just a short loop of wire with a quick connect, near the starter.
I was able to buy replacement wire at AutoZone and reuse the connector & get it done on a Sunday afternoon.

 

[celwood]

what - just do a continuity test on the wire loop to see if bad? I saw it but didnt really understand what it did

 

[celwood]

Had continuity so, i assume its fine.

 

[Baby Grand]

When mine went bad and I tested it, it seemed okay.
Then I flexed the wire a bit and lost continuity.
I think the wire was randomly making/breaking contact.
Sounds like yours is okay.
I'd start by checking continuity from the battery cable lugs to the starter and ground.
You've got an open circuit somewhere.
I've also had to replace one of those glass bus fuses, located behind the dash; down near the steering column.
Someone here on TBN also had an ignition switch go bad on them.
Do you have the wiring diagram?
You can get that, as a pdf, e-mailed to you from Messick's.
It is tempting to blame that mysterious control box, but every time I start to suspect it something else turns up bad.

 

[skyhook]

Why can't this be towed on a trailer?
You could put a sheet of plywood under it, throw a hook on the end of the plywood and pull the plywood on the trailer.:confused2:

 

[celwood]

Why can't this be towed on a trailer?
You could put a sheet of plywood under it, throw a hook on the end of the plywood and pull the plywood on the trailer.:confused2:

Great point. Thanks for responding.

 

[celwood]

When mine went bad and I tested it, it seemed okay.
Then I flexed the wire a bit and lost continuity.
I think the wire was randomly making/breaking contact.
Sounds like yours is okay.
I'd start by checking continuity from the battery cable lugs to the starter and ground.
You've got an open circuit somewhere.
I've also had to replace one of those glass bus fuses, located behind the dash; down near the steering column.
Someone here on TBN also had an ignition switch go bad on them.
Do you have the wiring diagram?
You can get that, as a pdf, e-mailed to you from Messick's.
It is tempting to blame that mysterious control box, but every time I start to suspect it something else turns up bad.

Question- Would a bad ignition or a safety switch allow the engine to crank but not start? Or would either of those things not let it crank at all? How do you tell if ignition is bad?