Kubota L3130 hydraulics

[Eric_Phillips]

I am tying to sell a Shaver post driver to a guy that has an L3130 with a backhoe and hydrostatic transmission. I was telling him it is best to have the return line form the post driver to go directly to his sump and not through the hydraulic system. His plan is to hook it to the backhoe connections. He claims that if he doesn't connect the post driver to the return side of the backhoe none of his hydraulics like the loader will work. I think he has dead headed the hydraulics when he tried hooking something to the pressure side and not back to the return side. So where in the series is the backhoe connection in relation to the loader, hitch and transmission? He is trying to get me to lower the price because he will need a new return hose since the one currently on there is not a high pressure hose. If he plumbs to the backhoe return then anything after the backhoe could create pressure in the system.

 

[Ductape]

Backhoe is generally after the loader but before the three point hitch.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Backhoe is generally after the loader but before the three point hitch.

Is the HST independent of the loader, backhoe, hitch loop?

 

[J_J]

I think I would run a hose from the PB port to a QD in the back for the BH, and run the OUT hose directly to tank.

If not using the BH, loop the hose back to the 3pt input.

If the BH has a PB port, then the PB port from the BH would go to the 3pt and the OUT hose to tank.

HST has it's own pump.

 

[J_J]

I think I would run a hose from the PB port to a QD in the back for the POST POUNDER, and run the OUT hose directly to tank.

If not using the POST POUNDER, loop the hose back to the 3pt input.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Are the BH connections like rear remotes but without a valve? So when you take a BH off do you need to complete the loop with a hose? I am thinking he needs some kind of valve so he can divert the flow to the PD which would return directly to the sump but would be bypassing the hitch. Once the post is in just flip the valve to return the flow to normal and raise the hitch and go to the next post.

 

[moship]

I cannot help with detailed knowledge of the complete hydraulic circuit, but I can answer Eric_Phillips question.

When the BH is removed the lines must be connected to form a loop. (This is how it is on my setup)

 

[Eric_Phillips]

I cannot help with detailed knowledge of the complete hydraulic circuit, but I can answer Eric_Phillips question.

When the BH is removed the lines must be connected to form a loop. (This is how it is on my setup)

Thanks that is what I thought but I don't have a BH so I was not sure. So if he wants to hook this up correctly he needs to spend some money and plumb in a valve to divert the flow to the PD when in operation then allow flow back to the hitch when done pounding. The PD is different from most other hydraulic implements and therefore takes some different plumbing. This guy does not understand that and thinks I should pay for his wanting to replumb the driver so the return line can handle the back pressure from the hitch. When I bought this PD and my hydraulic top link I didn't expect either of those sellers to pay for adding the hydraulics to my tractor to run those.

 

[J_J]

You don't want any back pressure on the Post pounder valve and the OUT flow from the valve should go directly to tank. Some people even increase the OUT hose size.

It is easy enough to re move the Post pounder out of the system, by reconnecting the loop from the PB to the 3pt input.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

You don't want any back pressure on the Post pounder valve and the OUT flow from the valve should go directly to tank. Some people even increase the OUT hose size.

It is easy enough to re move the Post pounder out of the system, by reconnecting the loop from the PB to the 3pt input.

J_J I agree but it almost started an argument when I was trying to explain that to the buyer. I had to stop since I was trying to sell something and didn't want to piss off the buyer. All I can do is politely tell him what is recommended by the manufacturer and if he is too lazy to figure out how to make that work on his tractor that is not my problem.

The thing is with the PD you need to raise and lower the hitch when you move to a new post so just swapping QDs would be a pain. Some sort of valve needs to be installed.